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  • Boring Engine Blocks on a Bridgeport Mill

    Here's something I knocked up a couple of years ago to allow me to bore engine blocks on the Bridgeport. Nothing more than a piece of EN32 plate fitted where the slotting head would normally sit which allowed me to mount the 777 Van Norman Boring bar. All the rest on the table is a couple of 8" indexing chucks holding a 2" EN32 ground bar with rings that I turned in the lathe to fit the front & rear main caps.
    The job on the table was a Chevy 454 that I bored .027" over then finished to size with the hone for each individual piston. The set up works fine for the amount of blocks that I need to bore in a year and once again shows the versatility of the Bridgeport!

    I appologise in advance for the music, thought it was a good idea at the time?

    Here's another pic of a Ford 460 being bored in preperation for oversized pistons & 4.3" stroker crank taking it out to to 521 or 8540cc. It was topped off with an 8-71 Supercharger & when it was finished it made 790hp & 770lbs/ft on the engine dyno. For a car that is taxed & MOT'd and runs on regular pump fuel it makes for an interesting drive?

    Last edited by Kenny G; 02-15-2011, 02:22 PM. Reason: Rectification of Pics?


    • Universal Pillar Tool

      Ed P


      • !!!!! TS Check weld before running lathe !!!!!!!!!

        TS it looks like there is a crack in the weld holding the chuck to the mounting plate..



        • Over here UK side we have what is known as taper lock bushes, often known as Fenner Taper lock after the maker.

          Very good idea, easy to fit and dismantle. I often take worn plain bores out in size and fit one of these.
          They have two tapped holes in the hub and one plain one, these are then bored out taped so 1/2 the holes are cut away and the tapped holes jack the hub into position.
          The one plain hole corresponds to a rapped hole on the hub to jack the hub out.

          The hub is split and has a keyway in and because of this they will hold very securely on undersized shafts.

          The holes marked C are for clamp and the one marked R is release.

          At first glance these holes look to be at 90 degrees to one another but they are not, they are all over the place and different sizes don't use the same off sets.

          So some while ago I made a set of 7 drilling jigs up and had them hardened, there is a centre hole that you fit a stepped bush in to fit the plain bore you are working with.
          Drill three holes, tap two then turn out at an 8 degree taper [ all 8 degrees ] until the bush fits and stands proud slightly, then just fit - simples.

          Literally a 15 to 30 minute job depending on size.


          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


          • flycutters

            here are 2 homemade flycutters




            • Originally posted by vpt
              It sure does look like that.
              It may not look pretty but it is solid. The pipe is not butt welded to the chuck mounting plate. I know better than that. I bored a hole in the plate and turned down the pipe just enough to slip through then welded it on the back side. This isn't going to be operated at high speed anyway. Once again, I know better than that.



              • Decking an engine block:


                • Dogs & Homemade Tools &shop Wood Stove


                  AND SHOP WOOD STOVE



                  • It's a Chevy 250 inline six. 1980-ish vintage.


                    • Your milling the deck on a 250 Chevy block in one pass? I'm curious, what kind of mill and how long is the table?


                      • stove

                        this photo may explain how it works



                        • Holy Cow?!? How many pounds of thrust you get out of that thing?

                          I wish I had the wherewithall (translation: marital support) to build such a heater. NICE!


                          • BIGBALDGUY:

                            Yes. It's an 8x36 Grizzly mill with an 8" tall steel tube riser and a vintage BP step pulley head. I used 17" travel with my fly cutter swinging 12" to cut the 28.5 inch deck. Saddle support length under the table is about 14" so the center of mass barely off the saddle at each end. For each cut I moved the knee up with the table centered, then locked it and cut to each end. Total removed less than .010, just enough to true it up and set my quench clearance. Tram of course was dead nuts. Left a witness mark you can see in the photo above but not feel. Flatness plenty close. I'd say it's within .001 judging with my straightedge so I am pleased.
                            Last edited by strokersix; 02-17-2011, 07:58 PM.


                            • Strokersix,nice job,probably better than the factory.
                              I just need one more tool,just one!


                              • tools

                                shop made toolpost grinder