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  • MattiJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Okapi View Post

    Looking closely I see a simple metal part in place of the tool holder, but if you have the chance to work with a shaper without problems with precision, it's just bad to use it as a saw, it's not made to support high loads as you can have on a saw, and you make unnecessary wear on mobile parts, a good shaper is a precision tool which can made some very specific work.
    Say again?
    Forces during sawing are probably piece of cake compared to what would be heavy cut on shaper.

    Leave a comment:


  • Okapi
    replied
    Originally posted by BCRider View Post
    Zago, welcome to the forum. I'm sorry but the online translators don't seem to know what to do with your words "
    minha serra 1
    ".

    And as a shaper owner that is really enjoying using this old world machine I too hope that the saw bow is not welded to the finely fitted clapper box. That would be a real shame. I've only used my own shaper a little so far. But I'm rapidly coming to enjoy it and want to use it a lot more.

    On the other hand if there's a lot of things wrong with that shaper you have that makes it mostly scrap metal then at least it is doing a task.
    Looking closely I see a simple metal part in place of the tool holder, but if you have the chance to work with a shaper without problems with precision, it's just bad to use it as a saw, it's not made to support high loads as you can have on a saw, and you make unnecessary wear on mobile parts, a good shaper is a precision tool which can made some very specific work.
    Look at this video the precision you can have on a shaper.
    http://www.lecollectionneur.ch/rapide-lime/
    http://www.lecollectionneur.ch/_Media/precision-el.m4v

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    Zago, welcome to the forum. I'm sorry but the online translators don't seem to know what to do with your words "
    minha serra 1
    ".

    And as a shaper owner that is really enjoying using this old world machine I too hope that the saw bow is not welded to the finely fitted clapper box. That would be a real shame. I've only used my own shaper a little so far. But I'm rapidly coming to enjoy it and want to use it a lot more.

    On the other hand if there's a lot of things wrong with that shaper you have that makes it mostly scrap metal then at least it is doing a task.

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
    2" boring head attachment for those tough bores...… (pictures)
    I haven't kept up here due to all the recent changes. That's one very sweet piece of kit to go with the boring head.

    You just KNOW that we're going to slavishly copy your design, right?

    WBC, same at you and your design. Particularly the one with the short but sturdy integral bar. That's super nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • thaiguzzi
    replied
    Originally posted by zago View Post
    minha serra 1
    Please don't tell me someone has WELDED the clapperbox to that?

    Leave a comment:


  • zago
    replied
    minha serra 1
    Attached Files

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  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    that is really sweet! CCMT insert? Must be alot more rigid than a bar sticking out.
    That's right.

    Honestly I wish I had thought of just using a magnet for the SG indicator. That would have been simpler and easier.

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • DICKEYBIRD
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
    2" boring head attachment for those tough bores.
    Whoa, that there's a good-un'!

    Leave a comment:


  • wbc
    replied
    Another HD boring bar insert holder

    Similar boring bar idea as #3581, but these two are NOT adjustable for different boring bar spacings...alas.
    Fixed tig'ed posts, and TCMT inserted in some scrap metal.

    Leave a comment:


  • wbc
    replied
    another surface grinder indicator

    Another way to add a surface grinder dial indicator for these taiwan surface grinders sharing the same 40+ year old
    basic castings, up to present day Tormach personal grinder: magnetically.
    Magnet slip allows for distracted bozo moves.
    If you have an oiler clearance requirement (yellow plug), same idea, just more offset mountings.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    that is really sweet! CCMT insert? Must be alot more rigid than a bar sticking out.

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    2" boring head attachment for those tough bores.



    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    [QUOTE=oldstarfire;1258450]
    Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
    This weekend, an indicator mount for my surface grinder.

    I may be missing some thing, but would a riser block (say 2 inches thick) under the indicator mount not give additional travel before any crashing?
    The crashes go two ways; down into the oiler and up into the indicator. An easy mistake to make when watching the distance between the wheel and the workpiece.

    A washer or a short stiff spring would be a good addition to permit release and prevent self-tightening in the event of a crash.

    I did test it a little bit and found that it did slip free while still working properly, so long as I don't overtighten. A spring may help idiot-proof it further.

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • oldstarfire
    replied
    [QUOTE=mattthegamer463;1258128]This weekend, an indicator mount for my surface grinder.

    I may be missing some thing, but would a riser block (say 2 inches thick) under the indicator mount not give additional travel before any crashing?

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    I may be getting all OCD on the idea but a thought I've had more than a few times over the years is extended T nuts that are just barely short enough to fit down through the end trays of the mill tables. And on the shoulder that presses up against the underside of the slot overhangs I'd relieve the middle by a couple of thou. In use the T nuts would first touch down at the ends and then bow up from tension to touch in the middle as well. The idea being to spread the load out over more of the length of the T slot lips. Not sure if it would aid with avoiding busting out the lips or not. But spreading the load never seemed like a bad idea.

    Along the same line I'd also thought about the idea of cutting slight "ditches" along the T nut shoulders near the center "head". The idea there being to focus the load out at the upper outside corners and put the cast iron more into shear than a bending from the overall contact.

    In practice I've just tried to be mindful of the whole issue of not wanting to torque the clamping gear to the point of producing a cast iron eruption. And so far my jobs have not started crawling away on me.

    Leave a comment:

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