Shop Made Tools

[MaxxLagg]

Little follower rest for a Hardinge lathe.

[Hal]

Thanks for the reply. I hope you get a lot of shooting in this year.
I have a barrel on order from Lilja for a ..17 R.E.M. For my son. I need to order a .25 barrel to build a .257 weatherby for my hunting rifle.

Hal

[ken226]

Ken

Very fine work. You put a lot of thought into design.
I'll have to try making a chuck for my d1-3.
What steel did you use ?
what type of shooting do you do?
Any better pictures of of your logo and how did you engrave your logo?
Hal

I apologize. Last time I looked at this thread, I didn't see your questions.


I used 8620 hot roll steel. For no other reason than I got a deal on it.

I do mostly intermediate range steel shooting. Stuff like PRS.

The logo was CNC milled on a 7x26 3 axis vertical mill, using a 1/32" ball end mill.

[ken226]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I've had the tooling bug lately. Been buying and making all the stuff I've had a need for over my last 15 years of metal working.

I even made a knife sharpener a few months ago, inspired by the Wicked Edge pro.

[Hal]

Ken

Very fine work. You put a lot of thought into design.
I'll have to try making a chuck for my d1-3.
What steel did you use ?
what type of shooting do you do?
Any better pictures of of your logo and how did you engrave your logo?
Hal

[ezduzit]

Really nice work, Ken.

[ken226]

I made these recently.

I direct mount d1-4 spider and outboard spider set for chambering rifle barrels:



A d1-4 direct mount receiver truing chuck:





And a axial/radial floating collet chuck. It floats radially .03" from center in all directions, and axially has a 5° range of freedom. When the outer collar is tightened, it draws the moving parts to center and locks everything, for rigid drilling.

[rcaffin]

Gang tooling: this is a 4-hole unit with 3 tools in it: outside turning, inside turning, and drilling.

For smaller drill bits the empty hole can take a centre drill bit.
This was made from simple Al bar stock, with the block on the CNC table or saddle and the boring done from the chuck - so naturally everything lines up very well. The visible drill bit is in a custom sleeve of course; a chuck would stick out too far.

Cheers
Roger

[BCRider]

That's a great idea, and combine it with a 4 position stop.
Larry

Yes, that would be a great teaming.

I know that there are MT tailstock adapters that hold tooling but with this block in the toolpost option along with a bed stop the options for OD steps and other features open up a lot of small numbers or repetitive hobby options.

Would it be too much to suggest one of those multi tool tail stock units AND the tool post block AND the bed stop? I think not!

[metalfixer]

Those ganged tool holders could be handy even on a manual lathe for some repetitive jobs. The end face and then each hole could be made to some equal spacing which would make it easy to dial in the block then advance the cross slide to each position.

That's a great idea, and combine it with a 4 position stop.
Larry

[BCRider]

Those ganged tool holders could be handy even on a manual lathe for some repetitive jobs. The end face and then each hole could be made to some equal spacing which would make it easy to dial in the block then advance the cross slide to each position.

[luthor]

Unfinished gang tool holder for an old CNC lathe, one more hole to be drilled and reamed then the set screw holes drilled and tapped.
Left handed boring bar for light facing and OD turning, drill, bore then an internal retaining ring groove tool (not shown). Give each tool a number and then touch them off, write the program and have at it, do not call the wrong tool number at the wrong time as this makes for spectacular crashes (-:

The parts were POM so it did not have to be very rigid.

I made something similar for my Australian made CNC Lathe, they are very handy and save a lot of tool changes.

[Dave C]

Carbide PCB drills: many of them start at 0.035 mm (#80), but a market watch will find smaller ones. I keep an eye on this.

Carbide boring bar: I take it that the bit in the lathe chuck has the offset? I use a TCG instead, but this idea is a good one.
And I note the rag used to keep the carbide dust off the lathe ways: very wise. The dust goes everywhere!

Cheers
Roger
Bother: yes, 0.35 mm, not 0.035 mm. Just checking to see who was watching of course ...

Reminds me of a tale from a long time ago about the German and Swiss trying to outdo each other. The Germans drew a wire of something like the diameter of a human hair, then turned one end and threaded it. They sent it to the Swiss, saying we've beaten you. You cannot possibly improve on this. The Swiss promptly sent it back and the Germans thinking they had finally beat them asked why they gave up the fight. The Swiss responded with: You Germans didn't inspect the part very well. We cut it in two, turned and threaded one piece, bored the other piece, cut internal threads in it, and screwed both pieces back together." So let's see you improve on this one."

[MattiJ]

Carbide PCB drills: many of them start at 0.035 mm (#80), but a market watch will find smaller ones. I keep an eye on this.

Carbide boring bar: I take it that the bit in the lathe chuck has the offset? I use a TCG instead, but this idea is a good one.
And I note the rag used to keep the carbide dust off the lathe ways: very wise. The dust goes everywhere!

Cheers
Roger

0.35mm, not 0.035mm

Carbide boring bar: yup, I offset the collet chuck with a piece of shim between one of the jaws or something like that.

[rcaffin]

Carbide PCB drills: many of them start at 0.035 mm (#80), but a market watch will find smaller ones. I keep an eye on this.

Carbide boring bar: I take it that the bit in the lathe chuck has the offset? I use a TCG instead, but this idea is a good one.
And I note the rag used to keep the carbide dust off the lathe ways: very wise. The dust goes everywhere!

Cheers
Roger
Bother: yes, 0.35 mm, not 0.035 mm. Just checking to see who was watching of course ...