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  • BCRider
    replied
    There's one factor for the "load from the rear" style block that is in our favor. With only a small amount of extra effort all the important stuff on both pieces can be done in one hold of the stock.

    The rear collet holder can be turned both internally and externally in all respects other than the very non critical cleaning up of the rear portion.

    The block can also be fully drilled, bored and threaded in all respects with the one hold. The only issue is that the compound would need to be set for the internal nose taper angle. Not at all a difficult thing either. And if the person does the angle setup and testing on the accessable end before doing the major boring out and threading the angle setup can be tested and tweaked and some practice for the whole thing performed to confirm the numbers for "shooting blind" later on for the real angle portion.

    So all in all I would say that this is not a super intimidating project. A lot of chips and certainly a project with a long checklist to ensure things are done the right way. But nothing that would be overly difficult.

    The only other "safety" issue to make life easier that I'd suggest is to toss in the very slight extra complication of doing the internal threads in reverse with the upside down threading boring bar as per Joe Pie. But other than a bit more of a fancy setup the actual threading would be easier and less fearful than threading into a clearance slot.

    I'm wondering if the end of the holder that screws into the block could be sized and fluted such that it holds the next size down ER wrench. That would make tightening the nut a lot easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • TGTool
    replied
    I've got a tool and cutter grinder with a straight shank ER-20 holder for mounting tools to be ground. One aggravation is that it means the tool sticks out a long ways which is a detriment for rigidity and concentricity. I've been thinking of making a holder along these lines to fix that problem. Another thing it would do in this case would be to allow the tool and holder to be withdrawn from the back. With the larger nut on the straight shank holder, everything has to be removed from that end.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cenedd
    replied
    I've certainly had the nut bigger than block but it's always been useful as a stop to relocate the part after turning it. Can see that not being the case all the time though. Longer block to fit the vise eh? What you need is a smaller vise and a smaller mill.... wouldn't have such problems then!

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthemuppet
    replied
    hmm, that'd be cool to see. I've had both those issues crop up with my collet block, although the "nut bigger than block" issue can be solved with a bigger collet block. Very worthy project though, I use mine more as a collet block than I do a collet chuck.

    Leave a comment:


  • DennisCA
    replied
    Functionally I guess it's more or less identical. But the screw nut can be made smaller in so does not protrude from the sides any, so it can sit inside the vise jaws if required, so you can turn it around if you wanted to work on both sides and you wouldn't have to rechuck the part.

    And the square body on this is longer so you have more of it to clamp in the vise.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cenedd
    replied
    DennisCA certainly looks interesting - and an interesting challenge to machine - but I'm going to ask the obvious (?) question: why? What makes this better (or more suited to a particular application) than the normal style?

    Leave a comment:


  • DennisCA
    replied
    Just a cad plan so far, but a bit different style of ER collet block. Got it from Stefan Gs old website, no longer around but accessible via the web archive.



    Leave a comment:


  • mickeyf
    replied
    My kind of project - "Hmm..what have I got in the parts bin?"

    Leave a comment:


  • wbc
    replied
    Index vertical mill: Drawbar spinners; A progression...
    a) Began with pure manual operation, but reaching and spinning the drawbar got to be tedious.
    b) Migrated to a cordless screwdriver with a permanently mounted socket on it to spin. But the machine is tall, and
    the reach problem was still there over the years. Pic#1.

    Wanted one universal tool to also raise/lower the knee (need >5 ft lbs to start going up, 2 going down),
    which a small screwdriver was never going to do.
    Considered first a cordless ratchet, but they are not "smooth" -- ratcheting imparts a sickening pounding on the knee screw.
    Also, reversals take two hands.
    Second consideration was a right angle drill, but they tend to be too high rpm for this task, and the "reach" problem
    would not be fully addressed.

    c) Virus mindlessness resulted in re-purposing a Makita drill born with a worthless chuck into a slow speed, long reach,
    right angle spinner that can spin both the drawbar and/or move the knee from one standing position.
    The tool is not intended for drawbar final tightening/loosening. Final torque applied with the brass-colored magnetic
    open-end wrench/hammer in background of pic#2.

    Added 3/8" square-drive receptacles to the drawbar and z screw, and a 3/8 wobble extension on the tool. Knee can
    also be moved using straight-shaft output of the drill, like a regular DIY knee-drill motoring accessory.
    Reach solved, and reversing is one-handed. And all made from misc junk: 1950's sewing machine bevel gears,
    1980's washing machine pipe, printer shaft, brass and Al bits, and a previously sorry Makita.
    Stores on a hanger/bracket on the knee (not pictured.)

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  • The Metal Butcher
    replied
    Originally posted by Boats69 View Post

    I am not sure I am 100% following your question, so two aspects covered, if I missed the point please try again!

    1. It seems to work better/easier if you match the diameter of the workpiece to some extend to the pitch of knurl wheel - eg with a 1mm pitch the diameter should be some integer multiple of 1mm.

    2. I suppose there is some maximum workpiece diameter, anything that allows both the wheels to make contact seems to work OK.
    No you nailed it. I don't really follow my question either. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Boats69
    replied
    Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
    Thanks, that's interesting. Ok, so sounds like you can't easily start and stop in the middle of a part "Band in center of the part" but given your picture, I'm not convinced by "When high surface finish is not required"....it looks better than any of my (admittedly few) attempts at form knurling!
    That’s what I am experiencing too. I plan to make a clamp/scissor type form knurler as well - that will just be be for straight knurling as I don’t have a means to make good quality wheels with a helix.

    Leave a comment:


  • Boats69
    replied
    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

    Boats, very nice job indeed. Do they and "compatible" diameter like deformation knurls, or is there a maximum?
    I am not sure I am 100% following your question, so two aspects covered, if I missed the point please try again!

    1. It seems to work better/easier if you match the diameter of the workpiece to some extend to the pitch of knurl wheel - eg with a 1mm pitch the diameter should be some integer multiple of 1mm.

    2. I suppose there is some maximum workpiece diameter, anything that allows both the wheels to make contact seems to work OK.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cenedd
    replied
    Thanks, that's interesting. Ok, so sounds like you can't easily start and stop in the middle of a part "Band in center of the part" but given your picture, I'm not convinced by "When high surface finish is not required"....it looks better than any of my (admittedly few) attempts at form knurling!

    Leave a comment:


  • Boats69
    replied
    Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

    Very nice Boats. Care to comment on the merits of cut knurling vs deformation knurling for the uninformed? Assume it requires less tool pressure but then there must be a reason this isn't the default. Presumably, given the angles, it must travel to cut a knurl that wide?
    Yes, this must travel along the workpiece to cut the knurl. This is from the Dorian Knurling Catalogue:

    Click image for larger version

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    I have a cheapie self-centering form knurler, it works well enough on softer materials but I feel that it takes a lot of pressure and I feel pity for my Super 11’s cross slide and spindle when using it. This cut knurler uses a lot less pressure to cut.
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  • The Metal Butcher
    replied
    Originally posted by Boats69 View Post
    Homemade cut knurling tool - I still need to make few different pitch knurl wheels - those are 1mm or about 25 tpi. I am quite happy with results, although I can still refine the setting to height.
    Boats, very nice job indeed. Do they and "compatible" diameter like deformation knurls, or is there a maximum?

    Leave a comment:

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