Shop Made Tools

[dazz]

Each of us everytime we build something, no matter how trivial we might think it is, should always take a few minutes and stamp our name and date in the object, someday, someone will own that item and know at least who made it.

I make tool cases from plumbers PVC pipe. Most of my shop made tools are roughly cylindrical. I cut a piece of plumbers pipe with the right diameter. I then get two push-on caps designed to seal off pipe ends. One cap is glued on. The other is pushed on and labeled "Open this end". I fit wooden brackets inside the pipe as required to support the tool. I label the outside of the tool with details, name, tool ID, date. Simple, cheap and robust.

Most of my tools will last generations. At least they might have a clue who made them and what for.

[darrell]

dont get me wrong. i saw a lot and what i did see there are plenty of ideas for a lot of cool stuff to attempt to duplicate. lot of safe married man eye candy to see lol. gotto get to work on machines first tho. maximat 7l needs gears

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

Back to the tools, I've always been less than satisfied with my Indicols (real ones). I decided to make my own using a Noga adjustable arm. This is still a work in progress, but so far, it's been rock solid and very easily adjustable.

[kwoodhands]

I use parallels held on the chuck with nickel size magnets.One magnet at each end of the parallels.
With smaller diameter stock I still use magnets but three of them will suffice as their is no room for 4 magnets.Naturally the magnets and the parallels are removed after tightening the jaws.
Beats $180.00 for the store bought spiders.
mike

[Lykle]

As promised, my Over the Top Ball Turner.



Because I have a slightly different type of tool post, I made the ball turner with a block of aluminium.
Using the lever, it moves the cutting bit in a arch over the material to be cut.

Setting up is a bit of an hassle, but it is do-able. By setting it up differently you can also cut lens shaped handles.
Using a different hole in the bit holder I can also cut concave shapes.

All in all, I really enjoyed making it. I have the design ready for anybody who wants to have a go at it.
The only tweak is, the way I mounted the shaft to the head block is a bit tricky and not altogether easy to make.
I use the screw to adjust the diameter of the ball to also hold the cross drilled shaft. Getting all the holes to line up perfectly was not easy. But with a file and some careful fettling I got it done.

Here are two balls that I made with it.

The left one with a little post processing, the right one with no other work done, just lathe work.

Lykle

[Deus Machina]

nice little design. I might make something similar if I ever need to cut concave shapes. I have a traditional U-shaped ball turner for convex ones.

Also: TAKE OFF THE GLOVES. If you must wear gloves, limit it to the doctor-style latex of nitrile. Working gloves are a quick way to turn a cut finger into a lost one.

[BigJohnT]

Lykle,

Why is set up a hassle? I like the rotation stops. Real nice workmanship.

John

[Lykle]

Hi all,
Thanks for the comments and yes I agree, no gloves or really tight ones.
I am wearing that one as I had slashed my palm and I was keeping the bandage clean.

Hassle to set up. This is mainly due to the shape of the bit and of finding the center point in the sweep on the tail stock side.
But once I have the height and stop set correctly, it is easy.

For a lens shaped handle I have to change the height again, so I am constantly finessing it.
Hmm, now that I describe it this way, I think I will think about a jig to help in this. You got me thinking now.
Ah well, as if I don't have enough to do!

Lykle

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I made a new tram bar holder for the mill. It has a 1/4" and 3/8" thru holes and 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" shank diameters.

I should add that I made this more for fun, I already have numerous other methods for tramming the mill.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I machine mostly small items, so I made a handful of these small toe-clamps. The stock was 1/2" X 1/2" Stainless that I had a bunch of. They use a 1/4-20 thread.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I work on a lot of small diameter (1/8" to 3/8") shafts and often need to machine thru holes or mill flats, so I made this long V block to use with the above toe-clamps. The block is 3.5" X 7.5" X 1".

[Lykle]

This looks like a very handy addition to my clamping arsenal.

Thanks for sending me back into the workshop!
I hope you don't mind if I use M6 thread instead of 1/4-20?

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

This looks like a very handy addition to my clamping arsenal.

Thanks for sending me back into the workshop!
I hope you don't mind if I use M6 thread instead of 1/4-20?

That might void the patent.

[Celticsun33]

Here are some adjustable set up blocks I made a few years back. I wish I could say I designed them, but I copied them from a guy I used to work with. They have been a Godsend on many occasions. I made them with fine threads for more fine tuning ability.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

Here are some adjustable set up blocks I made a few years back. I wish I could say I designed them, but I copied them from a guy I used to work with. They have been a Godsend on many occasions. I made them with fine threads for more fine tuning ability.

Those are a great idea, I think I need to make some similar ones.

I bought a Micro Height Gage, and it came with an adjustable base that works on a similar design. I'm not sure why you would need an adjustable base on a height gage, but this one is very well made. Not my work, but worth sharing. The slide works against springs, so there is very little back lash.