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Ball turning in the turret mill (photo)

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  • #16
    Evan, nicely executed solution. I've found that it sure makes cleanup easier if you put a piece of sheet rubber over the bed before cutting wood or doing any grinding. Notch it to fit around the compound if needed.
    You need no great excuse to get a useful machine. The sooner you get one, the closer it will be to worn out when you die of old age.
    Location: North Central Texas


    • #17
      I guess I don't see the need for a turret mill either *shrugs*

      I do however see the need for a CNC lathe, something with around a 16" swing or bigger should do the trick. But I think I could make due with one of them proto-trak type lathes.

      Wait, I gotta drill a hole in the wood 1st to put the arbor in, better put me down for a CNC (or equivilent) mill too!


      • #18
        Nowyartalkin Alistair
        Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


        • #19
          Newbie how does a guy do that out of aluminum...?
          I figured out that all pans are no-stick if you no-cook in them.


          • #20

            Have a look at this page. There is a mistake on the page, the caption for the first picture is wrong. It is really a boring bar holder.


            The gadget I made for turning wood balls is not rigid enough to do metal.

            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


            • #21

              Great idea - it works for metal too -

              I put a small boring head into a rotary table - same thing -

              but then I designed (working on) a holder for the boring head - that fits the quick change holder.


              • #22
                Evan,good show!

                Just one suggestion-Shopvac!
                I just need one more tool,just one!


                • #23
                  Yeah, next ones I do I'll tape the shop vac nozzle nearby. Got off work too late tonight to pick up some nice wood, we have a place in town that stocks exotic hardwoods so I should be able to find some nice combinations. Say, not being a wood expert, are there any considerations as to what glues to use on exotic hardwoods like rosewood etc?
                  Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                  • #24
                    Evan, they say to use epoxy for "oily" woods. I would put rosewood in that category. Also the standard "woodworkers glue" does not make a solid joint wil "creep" somewhat.
                    Big Dipper


                    • #25
                      Evan, I just use regular old aliphatic resin glue. If you are going to use darker woods, Elmer’s makes a dark brown glue that hides the glue lines better. Use plenty on end grain and let it absorb for a minute. If you are gluing an oily wood like padauk, wipe it with naphtha or alcohol first. You could laminate up some interesting woods like padauk, purpleheart, lacewood, zebrawood, or curly maple, and finish with a clear danish oil.
                      Location: North Central Texas


                      • #26

                        That sounds easy to me. I have done cabinet work but really don't like it all that much. I've never done much with hardwoods. This is softwood country. All my furniture is pine. In this case I won't have to worry about the glue squeezing out, I can just leave it. I have a good friend that I am in awe of. He does things with wood that defies explanation. He made a chest of drawers once where the planks of aged oak he used were slightly warped to a curve. So he made the front of the chest slightly curved. I actually think that fine woodworking is a finer skill than machining. The material is much more unpredictable.
                        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                        • #27
                          They are indeed very different mediums. To me, fine woodworking is more like an art, and machining, more a science. Wood shapes easily, and thus allows much freedom of form. Different woods, grains, and finishes can be used to artistic advantage. I could never build a table or clock from a design I didn't create. To me, cabinet making is work done of necessity, it’s not the same. With your ornaments, you could easily and cheaply laminate different species of small strips (say 3/8x1x3) together into an octagon. Leave some irregular gaps dimensionally consistent with the pieces used. Turn in to a ball and Voila, original art! My woodworking machines are set up to be precision tools. I have fit countless joints in wood to tolerances of a thousandth or two. Ironically, I think fabricating with metal requires more creativity. The countless functional uses of metal often necessitates complicated and creative solutions be found, to make a needed part to precision. This skill lies in the operator. And the beauty of a crisply machined billet... But of course you already knew that.
                          Location: North Central Texas


                          • #28
                            if you are messing with exotic woods like rose wood make sure you protect your self from inhalation contact of the dust chips as you can get an alergic reaction.

                            i user a lot of epoxy,but it is messy and a p in the a as you inevetibly end upmaking way more than you want .
                            sometimes epoxy is not appropriate for hard woods where the entire mass is not encapsulated ,as you may get a joint failure aas the glue is stronger than the wood .

                            resin glue is good ,yellow glue ok but leave it to cure for a good while before turning it .
                            the only glue thats been tested for hundreds of years is hide glue ,its a p in the a but at least you know how its going to behave and it is restorable -ie you can get theparts apart reapply and of you go, which the modern glues are not.

                            i like some others must make now wooden balls for xmas , hey i can make this on the lathe and look how good it is ,just imagine how good all the other stuff must be dear...................


                            • #29
                              [QUOTE]Originally posted by thistle:
                              [B]if you are messing with exotic woods like rose wood make sure you protect your self from inhalation contact of the dust chips as you can get an alergic reaction.

                              You got the point right, but expressed it with one questionable word that can lead to a misunderstanding. Some people with "Hardy" constitutions might believe that because they don't have "allergies" they are safe from wood dust when sanding exotics. Perhaps you should stress the word TOXIC instead of allergic. The dust truly is toxic, and while allergies may also be an individual concern, Toxicity affects everyone.

                              Disturbing visual begins here, skip if you're squeamish...

                              After just 5 minutes of sanding purpleheart and cocobolo, I spent 10 minutes in the yard trying out for the Olympic Hurling team. Almost made it, too, but I lived...

                              Robert in Tacoma
                              veni, vidi, visa...
                              (I came, I saw, I shopped...)


                              • #30
                                Yes on wiping down the oily stuff with den-alchol.

                                Oh and the allergy thing,I have had African Rosewood raise welps on me inside of five minutes.

                                You also have to watch some exotics that sometime have little flecks of sulfer and phosphorus in the grain,almost lit my tablesaw once.
                                I just need one more tool,just one!