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Repairing drill chuck collar teeth, possible?

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  • Repairing drill chuck collar teeth, possible?

    I have a nice jacobs 1/2" drill chuck but the teeth on the collar are rounded off some and the key slips when trying to tighten drill bits down tight. Is there any way to fix the teeth? Can they be reground and than the collar shimmed up closer to the keyway holes in the body? Some place to get replacement collars?
    Andy

  • #2
    I would say to first check to see if you have the proper Key.
    Their are about 40 keys out there and some are pretty close and will give
    the problem you mentioned. The teeth are hardened, and rebuilding them effectively is almost impossible. You could buy a new collar from Jacobs but then a new chuck will be close in price.

    For a quick fix, you could slide the collar forward in an arbor press and it will engage the key more, but dirt will then get inside and the thrust force of the key may slide the collar back. No shim will work that I know off
    Rich
    Green Bay, WI

    Comment


    • #3
      Maybe it's a nice chuck, but if there's that much wear on the teeth, maybe the inside has wear also. Could be better to just bite the bullet-
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

      Comment


      • #4
        Meshing

        If you can't get a key to fit, just face off the end of the bevel gear on the key so as to get a "tighter mesh".

        Cut the spigot end off to suit if required.

        It it "binds" - just file it to "ease" it to get a good/better "grip" and fit.

        The key and spindle gears are bevel gears.

        Comment


        • #5
          In general, if the teeth are bunged up, bin it and get another, or use as is. Repairs are not worth it. If a different key heps, so much the better, but you will be getting a new chuck pretty soon anyway.

          Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt
          You could buy a new collar from Jacobs but then a new chuck will be close in price.
          No lie...... I have a nice ball bearing chuck which needs new innards. Pricing the innards from Jacobs indicates I would spend about the same for the parts as a chuck.

          Why do they even bother? They might as well weld the chuck together for all the good it does to be "able" to repair it.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

          Comment


          • #6
            unless it cost you 1000 bucks junk it and buy a new one, jacobs chucks are nice i have a few and have tossed a few

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by J Tiers
              In general, if the teeth are bunged up, bin it and get another, or use as is. Repairs are not worth it.
              I agree with the outside of the chuck, but Jacobs sold repair kits for their ball bearing chucks, which consist of a new set of chuck jaws and a new ball thrust bearing. You can often find these kits on Ebay for $10 - $30 dollars, and I've rebuilt two Jacob 14N Super Chucks to Like New condition with them.
              "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

              Comment


              • #8
                I will try refacing the key to see if I can get a little more use out of this chuck. I do see now they aren't that expensive on ebay.

                Which bring up another question though. How well do the keyless chucks work? I have keyless chucks on my drills but they don't normally see the forces that my lathe sees.
                Andy

                Comment


                • #9
                  The collar is a press fit on the body of the chuck. You can put the key in it's hole and press the collar closer to the key in a vise or arbor press. That makes the teeth engage more. That may be all it takes to fix it. You can use the key as a gage to see how far to go.
                  Kansas City area

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Toolguy
                    The collar is a press fit on the body of the chuck. You can put the key in it's hole and press the collar closer to the key in a vise or arbor press. That makes the teeth engage more. That may be all it takes to fix it. You can use the key as a gage to see how far to go.
                    Quite frequently, that is the problem and an easy fix. Don't overpress it, install the key and press until the teeth engage properly. It can be done in a large vise if a press is not available, or persuaded with a deadblow hammer.

                    What number is the chuck, I might have a replacement shell for cheap (shipping cost).
                    Jim H.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Key-less.

                      Originally posted by vpt
                      I will try refacing the key to see if I can get a little more use out of this chuck. I do see now they aren't that expensive on ebay.

                      Which bring up another question though. How well do the key-less chucks work? I have keyless chucks on my drills but they don't normally see the forces that my lathe sees.
                      How well do the keyless chucks work?
                      A fair to good one - very well.

                      I have keyless chucks on my drills but they don't normally see the forces that my lathe sees.
                      Drilling the same hole in the same material the same way requires just as much torque and gives the chuck just as much abuse/wear whether in a chuck in a lathe, a mill, a drill press or a portable drill.

                      A good key-less drill will also work well in a "hammer drill" (masonry, concrete etc.) situation as well plus there are no keys to lose or slip either.

                      A good key-less chuck is less likely to slip than keyed one, but a poor one can "lock-up" almost "solid" or not grip tightly. A poor chuck can do a lot of damage to the shank of what-ever drill-bit etc. is held in the chuck.

                      I have some very good "keyed" drill chucks that came with my mills that I use but other-wise my keyed chucks get replaced with key-less.

                      I buy all my chucks from a reputable "Trade" dealer as opposed to a "Retail" dealer and I want to see it in its box and "oil-paper" wrapping.

                      When I ditch a drill-chuck (and MT adaptor) the whole lot goes in the bin - never back on a machine or in a draw (for"just in case" use).

                      I always buy a the chuck and MT taper adaptor as a "made-up" set.

                      Being "penny (cent) wise and Pound (Dollar) foolish" is not the way to go here at least.

                      Being (too) "cheap" can turn out to be quite expensive.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by lazlo
                        I agree with the outside of the chuck, but Jacobs sold repair kits for their ball bearing chucks, which consist of a new set of chuck jaws and a new ball thrust bearing. You can often find these kits on Ebay for $10 - $30 dollars, and I've rebuilt two Jacob 14N Super Chucks to Like New condition with them.
                        Since I have no ebay account, and don't want one, I never see them, and they never see me.
                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

                        Comment

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