Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bridgeport Mortise

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Bridgeport Mortise

    I'm both a metal worker and a woodworker and have the luxury of sharing my tools between both hobbies.
    I have a mortising jig that I use from time to time on my drill press, and it does a nice job. But, I miss the luxury of the accurate x-y axis movement my Bridgeport mill offers, so I am giving serious consideration to making a mortising jig for my Bridgeport.
    Does anyone out there have a design for such a devise? I could design one, but I think someone has already done that and it probably works very nicely.
    If you do, will you share your good fortune with us?

  • #2
    I don't think a Bridgeport will be accurate enough for mortising wood.

    .
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



    Comment


    • #3
      Maybe not, but hopefully someone can help this poor unfortunate guy scrape by with what's at hand.
      Kansas City area

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi,

        Yes, I made such a beast a few years back, for my Beaver turret mill. If my camera defrosts, i'll take some pics tomorrow.

        Basically a pear-shaped lump of 20mm thick plate that clamps around the quill, a round rod that drops down past the chuck, and then an arm back in to hold the mortising cutter under the chuck. It puts a 1" square hole straight through hardwood, no probs.

        While I was at it, I also made an adaptor to hold a small wood router.

        Ian
        All of the gear, no idea...

        Comment


        • #5
          Huh!! A Bridgeport is a morticng jeweel both in rotary as with an endmill ground for wood and with regular chisels mounted on shanks as spindle tooling used reciprocaally. If you have a slotter head so much the better.

          I've done a lot of precision mortices on a BP. It might be a little slower then on a morticing machne or a drill press but very do-able. If you make a spindle adaptor to accept rotary morticing chisels the distinction disappears.

          And you are right: the finely controlled X-Y motion on a BP is a real advantage ofer a plain old morticer.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Ian, I'll Wait for the thaw.

            Comment


            • #7
              JCD,

              I quickly rigged the mortise attachment up - have a look at:

              http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/10...%20Attachment/

              It's just bits of plate & bar, allowing the mortise chisel to be firmly held below whatever chuck you have. The key thing is "firmly" - there's quite an overhang, and if the chisel gets out of alignment with the chuck, it'll bind up fast. As you can see, it eats vertical height - I could have made it more compact by shortening the shank of the drill.

              The split cotter to clamp the mortise bit into the holder is missing - I have it somewhere, but it was -4C in the workshop!

              With a mill, you have lots of ways of making square holes as Forrest says - but this is really quick and effective. The chisels are cheap enough, I have a range of sizes from 5/16" to 1".

              That piece laying on the table is the adaptor for a small router.

              Ian
              All of the gear, no idea...

              Comment


              • #8
                John S, must have one of those worthless English made BP's



                American ones are much better....

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mortising

                  Why not just keep using the drill press but put a good "X"-"Y" table on the drill table?

                  https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=M206

                  https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Compound-Tables

                  There are cheaper ones too that really are not too bad at all for the price.

                  Keep the wood chips off the mill.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bguns
                    John S, must have one of those worthless English made BP's



                    American ones are much better....
                    It is actually

                    Instead of 10 thou slop we have 10 microns

                    .
                    .

                    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Slop.

                      Geez John.

                      That much slop would feed the pigs and chooks here for a week!!

                      Perhaps Farmer Giles could use the BP for mixing the slops.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Tiffie,

                        Why not use a drill press and an X-Y table? From the link you gave, a table is $500, and weighs almost 60Kg. Expensive if you already have a mill with an X-Y table, and also a hell of a lump to lift on & off.

                        Is having sawdust on a mill a problem? When I clean sawdust off mine, it seems to take all the old gunk & fine swarf with it; I even keep sawdust in a bucket beside the lathe for cleaning the drip tray out.

                        Ian
                        All of the gear, no idea...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I don't think sawdust on machine tools is much of a problem if you use a shop vac to clean it up. If you use an air hose, then it gets into unwanted placed.

                          --Doozer
                          DZER

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ian,
                            Thank you for sharing your design, I think I'll make one.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It seems to me that the Beaver design would not be very strong,and would bend if much pressure were put on the mortising chisel. If I were to make an attachment,I'd turn a round attachment that would fit around the spindle,have an opening in its middle to get at the chuck and tighten it,and hold the diameter of the mortising chisel at the bottom. That way,all stress would be right up the centerline of the spindle and mortising chisel. You'd need about a 4 1/2" or larger bar of metal to make it from.

                              To me it's moot anyway,because I'd NEVER risk breaking off the teeth on the spindle housing,or on the spindle handle from putting a lot of pressure on a mortising chisel with a machine not designed for that use.

                              I just mill a slot,and quickly square off the corners with as wood chisel by hand.

                              When I was the toolmaker for Colonial Williamsburg,I worked out a way to make the escapements for wooden planes with sharp D2 chisels using the slotting attachment. First,though,we drilled out as much wood as possible,and routed the mouth of the planes up from underneath the plane's soles. It worked pretty well. We got where we could finish up a drilled plane escapement in about 15 minutes. And,it had true chisel marks,not router marks in it when finished.

                              We made a 1/4" thick D2 saw with VERY coarse teeth to saw the places on each side where the wedge of the plane would go. It went right through the planes,and right out the bottom,squaring up the throats of the planes. The initial router marks were cut away by the reciprocating and powerful chisel cuts.
                              Last edited by gwilson; 01-30-2010, 11:41 AM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X