Originally posted by Ron of Va
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Adding a DRO to the lathe
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Originally posted by William33902Thanks Ron. Side note, would you recommend DRO Pros as to do business with? They appear on the up and up, but thought I would ask since you have experience with them.
During my installation, I created a pictorial step by step documentation of the process. It was inspired by Steve Bedair’s installation seen here: http://www.bedair.org/Grizzly12x/DRO/GrizzlyDRO.html
I did a few things differently, but it is basically the same. DRO Pro asked for a copy, and it is, or was posted on their web site for a while. They couldn’t use Steve Bedair’s because DRO Pro doesn’t sell that model.
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Originally posted by Ron of VaIt is an Easson ES-10 purchased from DRO Pro. It has been discontinued.
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Originally posted by William33902What brand did you use on your Grizzly?
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Originally posted by SteelmasterOne problem I was experiencing with the DRO was that the readout was rather dim, particularly as I have a fluoro mounted right above the lathe.
Queried the guy I bought it from, also the designer/builder, and he informed me that the firmware inside the DRO would have to be updated to change the brightness of the readout.
Delivered the DRO to him on Sunday morning and picked it up on my way home on Sunday afternoon. Brightness is now spot-on for these old eyes
Another job to be completed was the splash guard, it had to be modified to allow the Y-axis glass scale to travel along the X-axis.
I basically cut the splash guard in 2, see photo in previous post and used some 3mm PVC sheet to attach the 2 parts with a suitable slot to allow the Y-axis scale to travel along it. I also made the spash guard slightly longer to allow it to rest on the bench just outside the drip tray.
Close up of the slot and PVC sheet
Great Post.
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Originally posted by Ron of VaGood Job and work-a-round.
Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.
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One problem I was experiencing with the DRO was that the readout was rather dim, particularly as I have a fluoro mounted right above the lathe.
Queried the guy I bought it from, also the designer/builder, and he informed me that the firmware inside the DRO would have to be updated to change the brightness of the readout.
Delivered the DRO to him on Sunday morning and picked it up on my way home on Sunday afternoon. Brightness is now spot-on for these old eyes
Another job to be completed was the splash guard, it had to be modified to allow the Y-axis glass scale to travel along the X-axis.
I basically cut the splash guard in 2, see photo in previous post and used some 3mm PVC sheet to attach the 2 parts with a suitable slot to allow the Y-axis scale to travel along it. I also made the spash guard slightly longer to allow it to rest on the bench just outside the drip tray.
Close up of the slot and PVC sheet
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I also took the opportunity to tidy the cabling using some rectangular conduit with removable top from Bunnies.
Used this setup for the first time yesterday and I was cery impressed the DRO. Very easy to turn to a given size and determine the length of a tenon on bushes etc.Hardly used the lathe dials at all, and a much reduced use of claipers and the digital indicator, so it was all worth the effort.
Also started on modifying the rear splash guard. Becuase of the 2 glass scales the standard is no longer suitable. Started by making to 2 cuts and bending the bottom part back to make room for the Y axis scale, but that wasn't successful, so decided to be a bit more drastic and cut the left side right off, giving me protection for the motor.
Was at the local 2nd hand dealer, a real treasure trove that one, and found a 1m sq sheet of 3mm PVC and will fashion the rest of the splash guard out of that. With a bit of heat it will be easier to bend than sheet metal without a brake.
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Got the lathe back on the bench, took the opportunity to raise it on 25mm MDF blocks.
At the same time i moved the position of the lathe to the front of the cabinet top to give more room for the Y axis scale and modified splash guard (to come)
The extra 25mm makes a real difference to the working height which I had found to be a bit low, but more importantly it gives more room for the Norton gearbox lever and the X axis power feed lever, which hit the splash tray.
It also provides extra height for a bigger oven tray to be inserted under the lathe, assisting with removing swarf. I had a smaller and lower oven tray before but this one works a lot better
When I had all this in position I decided I didn't like the DRO sitting behind the headstock. First of all it obscured the tool board, not an insurmountable problem, but more importantly iw wasn't easy to read in the position.
After some experimentation I re-located it, using the supplied bracket, to the right of the tool board and angled slightly towards me.
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Originally posted by gdaNice documentation of your install.
You will be glad you did the install, a DRO makes working much faster.
Are you worried about damage to the scale hanging off the back?
Originally posted by Ron of VaGood Job and work-a-round.
Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.
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Originally posted by SteelmasterNow that Christmas is out of the way, I decided to allocate
a few days to installing the DRO part ...
I was just taking photos of existing DRO installations in a vocational
shop Thu evening to note how those had been undertaken.
.
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Great job. BTW, lathes have an X-axis (the cross feed) and a Z axis (the spindle). Y would be a move vertically perpendicular to the crossfeed and spindle axes. Thinking of it that way now will make any future transition to CNC a lot easier.
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Good Job and work-a-round.
Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.
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When the DRO is bigger than the entire headstock of your lathe...
You might want to consider getting a bigger lathe!
Just kidding, redneck machinist humor.
Nice install.
--Doozer
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Nice documentation of your install. You will be glad you did the install, a DRO makes working much faster. Are you worried about damage to the scale hanging off the back?
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