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Adding a DRO to the lathe

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  • William33902
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron of Va
    Yes, I would recommend them as a business to buy from. They were quite willing to share their time and advice after the purchase. I had no issues with the product, therefore I can’t comment on how a return would be handled. However they told me several times, that if I had any problems with the product they would gladly make it right, and that they wanted me to be satisfied with the purchase. Telephone calls and emails were returned promptly.

    During my installation, I created a pictorial step by step documentation of the process. It was inspired by Steve Bedair’s installation seen here: http://www.bedair.org/Grizzly12x/DRO/GrizzlyDRO.html

    I did a few things differently, but it is basically the same. DRO Pro asked for a copy, and it is, or was posted on their web site for a while. They couldn’t use Steve Bedair’s because DRO Pro doesn’t sell that model.
    [email protected]
    Thanks Ron. I am so glad I asked. Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron of Va
    replied
    Originally posted by William33902
    Thanks Ron. Side note, would you recommend DRO Pros as to do business with? They appear on the up and up, but thought I would ask since you have experience with them.
    Yes, I would recommend them as a business to buy from. They were quite willing to share their time and advice after the purchase. I had no issues with the product, therefore I can’t comment on how a return would be handled. However they told me several times, that if I had any problems with the product they would gladly make it right, and that they wanted me to be satisfied with the purchase. Telephone calls and emails were returned promptly.

    During my installation, I created a pictorial step by step documentation of the process. It was inspired by Steve Bedair’s installation seen here: http://www.bedair.org/Grizzly12x/DRO/GrizzlyDRO.html

    I did a few things differently, but it is basically the same. DRO Pro asked for a copy, and it is, or was posted on their web site for a while. They couldn’t use Steve Bedair’s because DRO Pro doesn’t sell that model.
    [email protected]

    Leave a comment:


  • William33902
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron of Va
    It is an Easson ES-10 purchased from DRO Pro. It has been discontinued.
    Thanks Ron. Side note, would you recommend DRO Pros as to do business with? They appear on the up and up, but thought I would ask since you have experience with them.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron of Va
    replied
    Originally posted by William33902
    What brand did you use on your Grizzly?
    It is an Easson ES-10 purchased from DRO Pro. It has been discontinued.

    Leave a comment:


  • William33902
    replied
    Originally posted by Steelmaster
    One problem I was experiencing with the DRO was that the readout was rather dim, particularly as I have a fluoro mounted right above the lathe.

    Queried the guy I bought it from, also the designer/builder, and he informed me that the firmware inside the DRO would have to be updated to change the brightness of the readout.

    Delivered the DRO to him on Sunday morning and picked it up on my way home on Sunday afternoon. Brightness is now spot-on for these old eyes

    Another job to be completed was the splash guard, it had to be modified to allow the Y-axis glass scale to travel along the X-axis.




    I basically cut the splash guard in 2, see photo in previous post and used some 3mm PVC sheet to attach the 2 parts with a suitable slot to allow the Y-axis scale to travel along it. I also made the spash guard slightly longer to allow it to rest on the bench just outside the drip tray.




    Close up of the slot and PVC sheet


    Great Post.

    Leave a comment:


  • William33902
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron of Va
    Good Job and work-a-round.
    Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
    Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.
    What brand did you use on your Grizzly?

    Leave a comment:


  • Steelmaster
    replied
    One problem I was experiencing with the DRO was that the readout was rather dim, particularly as I have a fluoro mounted right above the lathe.

    Queried the guy I bought it from, also the designer/builder, and he informed me that the firmware inside the DRO would have to be updated to change the brightness of the readout.

    Delivered the DRO to him on Sunday morning and picked it up on my way home on Sunday afternoon. Brightness is now spot-on for these old eyes

    Another job to be completed was the splash guard, it had to be modified to allow the Y-axis glass scale to travel along the X-axis.




    I basically cut the splash guard in 2, see photo in previous post and used some 3mm PVC sheet to attach the 2 parts with a suitable slot to allow the Y-axis scale to travel along it. I also made the spash guard slightly longer to allow it to rest on the bench just outside the drip tray.




    Close up of the slot and PVC sheet

    Leave a comment:


  • Steelmaster
    replied
    I also took the opportunity to tidy the cabling using some rectangular conduit with removable top from Bunnies.




    Used this setup for the first time yesterday and I was cery impressed the DRO. Very easy to turn to a given size and determine the length of a tenon on bushes etc.Hardly used the lathe dials at all, and a much reduced use of claipers and the digital indicator, so it was all worth the effort.

    Also started on modifying the rear splash guard. Becuase of the 2 glass scales the standard is no longer suitable. Started by making to 2 cuts and bending the bottom part back to make room for the Y axis scale, but that wasn't successful, so decided to be a bit more drastic and cut the left side right off, giving me protection for the motor.



    Was at the local 2nd hand dealer, a real treasure trove that one, and found a 1m sq sheet of 3mm PVC and will fashion the rest of the splash guard out of that. With a bit of heat it will be easier to bend than sheet metal without a brake.


    Leave a comment:


  • Steelmaster
    replied
    Got the lathe back on the bench, took the opportunity to raise it on 25mm MDF blocks.



    At the same time i moved the position of the lathe to the front of the cabinet top to give more room for the Y axis scale and modified splash guard (to come)

    The extra 25mm makes a real difference to the working height which I had found to be a bit low, but more importantly it gives more room for the Norton gearbox lever and the X axis power feed lever, which hit the splash tray.
    It also provides extra height for a bigger oven tray to be inserted under the lathe, assisting with removing swarf. I had a smaller and lower oven tray before but this one works a lot better




    When I had all this in position I decided I didn't like the DRO sitting behind the headstock. First of all it obscured the tool board, not an insurmountable problem, but more importantly iw wasn't easy to read in the position.

    After some experimentation I re-located it, using the supplied bracket, to the right of the tool board and angled slightly towards me.


    Leave a comment:


  • Steelmaster
    replied
    Originally posted by gda
    Nice documentation of your install.
    You will be glad you did the install, a DRO makes working much faster.
    Are you worried about damage to the scale hanging off the back?
    No, it will be partially protected by the (modified) splash guard, will be posting pictures of that later.

    Originally posted by Ron of Va
    Good Job and work-a-round.
    Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
    Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.
    The positioning of the scale was a design decision made by the original owner/designer of this setup. I was reluctant to deviate from his plan as I am very new to this. He gives reasons for his design decision on his website, see link in my first post.

    Leave a comment:


  • EddyCurr
    replied
    Originally posted by Steelmaster
    Now that Christmas is out of the way, I decided to allocate
    a few days to installing the DRO part ...
    Helpful write-up, nicely illustrated and, for me, timely.

    I was just taking photos of existing DRO installations in a vocational
    shop Thu evening to note how those had been undertaken.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • hornluv
    replied
    Great job. BTW, lathes have an X-axis (the cross feed) and a Z axis (the spindle). Y would be a move vertically perpendicular to the crossfeed and spindle axes. Thinking of it that way now will make any future transition to CNC a lot easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron of Va
    replied
    Good Job and work-a-round.
    Was your scale too tall for your carriage?
    Here is how I did the cross slide on my Grizzly G4003G.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    When the DRO is bigger than the entire headstock of your lathe...
    You might want to consider getting a bigger lathe!

    Just kidding, redneck machinist humor.
    Nice install.

    --Doozer

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    replied
    Nice documentation of your install. You will be glad you did the install, a DRO makes working much faster. Are you worried about damage to the scale hanging off the back?

    Leave a comment:

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