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  • Taperlocks

    Using a jig for doing a taperlock bush yesterday and it struck me as possibly not many people appreciate the use of these items.
    A pic of what I'm talking about.

    The bushes come in various ranges that denote the same outside dimensions and in that range you get various bore sizes.
    The one in the picture covers the 1610 and 1615 bush series.
    You can rebore and key to suit the application. I tend to keep some of the lowest sizes in stock for emergencies.

    Forgive me if I'm teaching people to suck eggs but some won't have seen these and they are a life saver.
    The bush is tapered and fits into a tapered hole in the gear or pulley. There are two 'nearly' opposite holes that are 1/2 holes running partway down the side, marked C on the bush. These mate up with two tapped holes running thru in the pulley, again marked as C.
    The principle is you fit the bush to the pulley then onto the shaft and tighten the two allen grub screws supplied into the two holes marked C, these hit the bottom of the bush and force the taper bush into the pulley to lock the whole assembly very tightly together.

    Opposite the two clapming holes is an extra hole marked R, this is the release hole and is machined opposite the the clamp holes i.e. blind hole in the pulley, threaded hole in the bush. To release the bush you remove both allen screws and replace one in the release hole, when it hits the bottom of the blind hole it jacks the bush out. Very neat, no pullers or hammers.

    To use these in a pulley that has a parent bore or a normal bore that's been damaged you need to mark out the three holes on the pulley, drill one blind, drill two thru and tap and then machine the taper to give the 1/2 holes. The holes in each bush range are unique, no range has the same layout and they are never at 180 or 90 degrees to each other.
    I managed to get the relevant information from Fenner, the inventors of this system, a few years ago and have made a series of jig plates up. I lay the plate on the pulley using an adaptor bush and spot the holes, drill and tap, then machine the taper.
    All the tapers are 4 degree's per side, 8 degree's included.

    If anyone wants I can supply the jig plate dimensions either as DWG or DXF files for the ranges that appeals most to the home shop.

    These bushes are quite chaep, easily obtained and save having to wels up or resleeve damaged pulleys. It also possible to swap pullies between application just by changing the bush.

    John S.
    Nottingham, England.

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.

  • #2
    The Dodge Taperlok system has been around for many years. Saved many a maintenance man's bacon. Mine included.
    Morse QD is similar in concept but a bit more cumbersome as it uses a flanged bushing.
    The jigplate and dimensions would be useful information.
    I have been away from this for a couple of years, and Dodge may now be Fenner or have been aquired by Fenner, but I have used them since the '60s.

    [This message has been edited by JCHannum (edited 10-26-2003).]
    Jim H.


    • #3
      Just had a look at the Dodge site.
      They are identical both in sizes and numbers to the ones we use here.
      Obviously someone own's the invention but it's probably licenced out to various manufactures, Linn gear are also listing the same system.

      John S.

      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


      • #4
        Dodge Taperlok has been around for so long that patent could have expired or it is being licensed to others. There were others making it the last I knew. I have been out of this end of things for several years and you do not know what has happened to our US companies if you don't keep up with them on a daily basis.
        That does not take anything away from the usefulness of the system, however. Thanks for sharing it with us.
        Jim H.


        • #5
          I have seem a system close to this but the threaded part is all in the pulley. Just the bushing has two threaded holes to remove the bushing if you need to.

          I like this system but i found you have to be verry aware of alignment when you strat to tighten everything up. In my cases it seemed to pull the pulley in towards the opposite end.



          • #6
            Those templates are neat,I never have had the luxury of owning them,I usually layout a center point and drill and tap before I bore the taper.

            At work I use and spec those all the time,we have a little bit over 1500 examples of taper-lok,qd,and browning tapers in stock.

            Did you know that the first two numbers of a taper-lok bushing indicate the largest bore size it will accept?A 2017 would accept a 2"max bore with the use of a special rectangular key,and if I remeber correctly would be 1.7"length through the bore.

            Also ignore the factory instructions when they tell you not to use never-sieze,remember they want to sell you new ones when they break.Don't ever stick a screwdriver or similar in the slot to pry it open,if your not careful it will break like a china plate.

            Did you guys also know that you can get both taper-lok and QD weld in hubs?They run about $35.00 for a 2517 bushing,you just weld them in and presto instant hole.

            If I go a week without selling,installing or building something that uses taper-loks it is a rare occasion.

            [This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 10-26-2003).]
            I just need one more tool,just one!