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Home made boring bars?

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  • #16
    Davidcnc, I agree an end mill works very well as a boring bar if lined up properly. Actually a broken endmill with 1 good, sharp flute has the right end clearance and side clearance with the good point on center to do a passable job as a boring bar. Plus you can use them in any small size that you already have. Obviously you have to take lighter cuts but they are suprisingly ridgid.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Glenn Wegman
      Here's a .230" min bore boring bar that uses WNMG inserts...


      OK, now I have seen one. Thanks.

      So do tell us where they can be purchased.
      Paul A.
      SE Texas

      Make it fit.
      You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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      • #18
        Would one of these do it:

        http://cgi.ebay.com/MICRO-100-1-8-So...item3efcdb9d95

        Ian
        All of the gear, no idea...

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        • #19
          Paul Alciatore: my thoughts exactly.

          Cute little insert though, lol at the fact its 70% hole for the screw.
          Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Paul Alciatore
            So do tell us where they can be purchased.
            I purchased it and the inserts from MSC.

            The bar is made by Criterion and I believe they have smaller ones too.

            http://www.criterionmachineworks.com...g/InsSpecs.htm
            Last edited by Glenn Wegman; 02-21-2010, 10:25 AM.

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            • #21
              Sportandmiah, in post #7 he shows the rim for the car and the OD is about 7/8". The hole looks to be maybe 1/8" or less.

              First, I don't know of any standard reamers of 1/8" that are 8" long.

              Second, I feel sure that a 1/8" or smaller reamer would fit easily in a tailstock chuck in a Sherline lathe even though I have never seen one.

              Third, if it's to long cut it off. There is no law against shortening a reamer to my knowledge.
              Last edited by Carld; 02-21-2010, 02:50 PM.
              It's only ink and paper

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              • #22
                Second the Circle boring bars. They're nice. I have one with an insert just a little larger than the tiny one pictured.

                I prefer solid carbide bars just because they're more rigid. Wait for a deal on one though, as they ain't cheap.

                Cheers,

                BW
                ---------------------------------------------------

                http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
                Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
                http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

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                • #23
                  You can grind boring bars out of HSS cutter stock, although it can be a bit tedious.

                  To buy small boring bars tends to get expensive, they are not so commonly available in the standard 'sheep's foot" bar, although the smallest common type is probably small enough for a 1/4" hole.

                  Glen's photo is of a BIG boring bar!

                  Yes, this IS a boring bar..... in a lantern post holder.....

                  1601

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan

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                  • #24
                    I knew I should have posted the pic of the little one.....but I couldn't find it

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                    • #25
                      Thanks for input all. I really like Glenn's small bar! Just to clarify here's some pics with measurements of the wheel. I apologize for not supplying this earlier. I used a pre-sharpened HSS boring bar at first, but would like to try one with an insert. The hole in the very center is the axle hole, 3/32 reamed. That is NOT the hole I am talking about boring.







                      This photo shows the distance from the edge to the inside of the wheel.

                      Last edited by Sportandmiah; 02-21-2010, 08:25 PM.

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                      • #26
                        Just for the heck of it, I searched for carbide rod. I got a site that showed diameters from 1/8 and up, and lengths from 1-1/2 and up. Pricing wasn't bad, and in my favor at least, it's a Canadian business. Carbide.ca. But they don't do retail-
                        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                        • #27
                          So, which hole are you boring or should I guess it's the one .333" deep by .826"-.084"=.742"

                          I'll SWAG that it's that bore. Do I get a prize if I'm right?

                          I'll take one of the little cars when it's done and thanks in advance.

                          You can buy the indivual boring bars for the boring heads and get the small one and hold it in a holder with a V bottom for round bars.

                          Probably best to grind your own from a square HSS cutter. I have a bunch that I ground, if you need a photo let me know.
                          Last edited by Carld; 02-21-2010, 10:13 PM.
                          It's only ink and paper

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                          • #28
                            It appears there is confusion as to what I am trying to accomplish. It's my fault because I haven't explained it well or explained it wrong, so here goes.

                            1. I take a piece of 7/8" aluminum solid round bar, maybe 3/4" long.

                            2. I chuck that piece in a three jaw chuck, face, rechuck, and face other end.

                            3. I start the process by drilling a 3/32 axle hole completely through the entire piece of aluminum, and use a reamer accordingly.

                            4. I use the largest drill that will fit into my sherline jacobs chuck, and drill into the aluminum. To me this cuts down on the actual boring bar process. I do not drill all the way through, but .333". (That amount is enough for me to place some wheel details like hubcaps into the wheel when it is done.)

                            5. Now I use my pre-sharpened 1/4" HSS boring bar and bore the wheel .333" until I get the .042" as seen in the picture.

                            6. Mission complete.

                            After making 2 wheels using the above process, I've decided that I do not want to use HSS. I make alot of wheels, and I have absolutely no desire to sharpen the tools over and over. I do sharpen my HSS turning tools, but I would rather use an insert or carbide for this process.

                            Regards

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                            • #29
                              Well then. I had a very similar problem. I was making wheels almost identical to what you show, same scale actually. All I had at the time for a lathe was the Unimat. I had a lot of chatter and it was slow. That's a lot of metal to remove. So what I ended up doing is turning some tubing for the rim and some solid bar for the hub, parting those off with a hacksaw and pressing it together. I bored the ID to leave a bit of a step for the hub disc to press into and up to, then remounted that to finish bore the inside of the hub and the ID of the rim, then faced the rim and deburred. I did several that way, then turned a plastic stub that I could press fit each wheel onto to finish turn the OD, and finally drill the center hole. I think I still have some of the leftovers around here somewhere- oh, yeah, here's some tids



                              I played with nylon hub discs which you see on the rims, and aluminum hubs, which you see with the stub axles attached. There aren't any of the all aluminum completed wheels left here. Behind the wheel parts are two of the fixtures for holding the parts on the lathe. The solid one is what the wheel presses over to machine the od, and the hollow one (with the bit of string or something wrapped around it and crazy glued in place) takes the od of the wheel so I could machine the inside. Each of these was mounted, trued to size, then used for all wheels before the second op using the other holding jig. I see that both were made using bondo.

                              Man, that was almost 30 yrs ago- holy cow

                              If you look carefully at the wheel on the left, you can see the bit of a step I made in the ID for the disc hub to press up to. What I found with the all aluminum wheels was that once the disc was pressed into place, it was pretty much there for good, and I could turn out the id, including the step, without disturbing the discs position. These wheels measure .827 ID and .929 OD.
                              Last edited by darryl; 02-22-2010, 01:39 AM.
                              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                              • #30
                                Ya'll need a little CNC lathe for those tiny wheels if you're making so many!

                                Cheers,

                                BW
                                ---------------------------------------------------

                                http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
                                Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
                                http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

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