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Vise Swivel Base -- help

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  • Vise Swivel Base -- help

    Managed to sort out the electrical problems on the cold saw (some wires
    were shorting) -- heatshrink took care of that. Now I'm trying to get
    the saw apart for some cleanup and paint.

    I can't get the swivel vise off the darned thing! Have a look at these

    Here's how I think it works.. but I don't want to be wrong and do
    more damange:

    I've beat the poop out of this thing and, although the hammer blows did loose'n the swivel base a bit, that bolt just ain't move'n. There aren't any
    other pins / screws / etc that I can see.

    Maybe not obvious? but there's a lever that comes out from under the
    saw table.. it swings maybe 10" left to right.. to the right, and you tighten the swivel base, to the left and you loose'n it.

    Should I just keep hammering away?

  • #2
    Use some of this on it.

    Sometimes the professional is hidebound by tradition while the skilled amateur, not knowing it can't be done blazes a new trail. -JCHannum


    • #3
      It looks like the metal around the screw threads may be pushed into the threads. Have you put a nut on the stud and used a large brass drift and large hammer to change it's mind and come out?
      It's only ink and paper


      • #4
        Does the swivel base now move around the thru pin that stays still or around the bolt that you cannot remove?
        Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


        • #5
          The through pin (that you see on the top) always stays still. Its one piece
          with the threaded rod under the table (or appears that way anyway!).

          Both the vise base and the saw support spin around this shaft.
          The thing that worries me is that there are strange steps / shoulder on the
          shaft hiding inside those swivel bases.

          The vise base can move about 90degrees (45 of each side of "square") --
          the saw support can swivel almost 180 degrees (90 each side of "square").

          I think there are some 'stops' molded into the cast iron base that control
          how far the vise and the saw can swivel -- but again, they might be on the

          Kibby, does mcmaster stock that stuff?




          • #6
            Also, I'm guessing there's got to be a square section (or a key) somewhere
            in there.. otherwise when you tighten the bolt under the table (with the
            long lever) -- wouldn't it potentially cause the saw and/or the vise to move
            away from the setting you want?


            • #7
              I could be wrong, but it looks like that bolt may have been there ever since the base was cast. This is quite possible when we consider that cast iron (gray iron) has a melting temperature about 250 -400 degrees(F) less than steel does. (alloys would play a significant role in the precise melting temp). If it was, you will have a very hard time getting that bolt out.

              Edit: I asked a dumb question here. I have withdrawn the question and the statement that followed it.

              Here is a better question. Have you tried using an air hammer/impact gun on that bolt?
              Last edited by BillDaCatt; 02-26-2010, 12:43 PM.


              • #8
                Billy, haven't tried an impact gun -- i don't think its supposed to turn.. and
                i'm pretty sure its got to come out the top.

                It is meant to slide up and down though.. i mean thats how you lock the
                saw angles in.. so that seems to make sense. I think I just need a bigger hammer.


                • #9
                  Rather than repeat myself please read post #3.
                  It's only ink and paper


                  • #10
                    hahah.. thanks Carld ... it'll have to wait till morning.. but like I said,
                    thought I'd check the group wisdom before going to the inevitable: the BFH.

                    Worse comes to worse it won't be the first time I've had to weld something
                    that wasn't meant to come out with a hammer.



                    • #11
                      Rather than take a chance breaking the casting with the BFH approach, how about drilling the bolt out from the bottom end? Then you can deal with whatever needs to be done to put it back together.

                      I'm sure that will be easier than fixing a busted casting.
                      Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


                      • #12
                        Now, how's it supposed to work?

                        Hey Fellas.. am making progress on the cold saw. Will post pictures.
                        Carld was correct, took some "smooth talking" to get it apart.

                        So I got it apart, cleaned it up, painted / repaired /etc .. and put
                        the table back together.

                        I can't figure out how its supposed to work though and who did what
                        to this poor thing in its lifetime. There's a "section" sketch below.. but
                        basically the problem I'm running into is I can't figure out how the
                        "double nut" lock at the bottom is supposed to work.

                        The lock lever has about a 45degree throw.. so 1/4" turn on the through

                        Thing is, the saw swivel mount and the vise swivel mount could both turn
                        180 degrees. If I loosen the lock lever, when I try to turn the saw or the
                        vise, it "locks up" before i get 1/2 a turn around. it basically squeezes the
                        nut again.. and i can't loosen more because i've run out of travel on my
                        lock lever.

                        If anyone could make any heads or tails of this i'd appreciate it:
                        (ps.. i also found two pins drilled and hammered in place .. not sure if
                        they're factory or not -- if I can figure out how this thing is SUPPOSED to
                        work, I can figure out if I need the pins or not.)