Originally posted by CCWKen
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Stripped the turbo off my landrover 90 to fix a exhaust manifold leak, and found the intake wet with oil, I've decided there's too much axial play in the bushings and I hope its coming from there, so ordered a turbo chra rebuild kit to suit and will CR test the engine in case its suffering from one of the other many malaises of the landrover 19J engine
The exhaust manifold itself was distorted causing a blow between it and the head so I'll fixture it on a machine and knock it flat if the motor itself checks out healthy. Its got to 29 years old and 180k on the odo on the original engine, so not too bad for a motor reputed to grenade after 100,000.
After that, a massive shop tidy up, I got about 1/2 ton of steel floor plates a while back and they've been stacked up in the walkways with crap building up around them, now thats all stacked up neat in storage and I got rid of the clutter, I feel a lot better about things in general, having a cluttered shop depresses me.
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I previously had a row of 5 of the HF 40 count bin units mounted in my shop but the HF 40 count bin units were so damn chincey that I couldn't keep them up there. I've got small bins all over the damn place but figured I'd try the HF ones which was a mistake. Anyway, I removed them and installed a row of 3 Akro-Mils 64 bin units instead (USA Made). Well, these damn things sagged like a MOFO when you loaded them up so they were no damn good either. At least the HF bins didn't sag. Well, I ended up fixing the sag problem by screwing a support board to the top of the units which prevent the frames from sagging down. Akro-Mils "USA Made" junk. I should have taken a picture of the horrible sag they had before. Does any one else have Akri-Mils bins like these?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EDIT: I found a picture after I installed the HF bins. Man are those 40 count bin units terrible.
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Nice 3ph
I bought out a retiring machinist lathe and mills and he gave me his supply closet and he had this green shelf packed as it is now, pre organized with nearly everything I will need for life (bolts to rivetts, key stock to hose clamps). I admire your asthetic, I wanted to keep his memory alive and will keep this “system”
"Good judgment comes from experience, and often experience comes from bad judgment" R.M.Brown
My shop tour www.plastikosmd.com
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Some of my other storage bins:
Electronics lab in my office:
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins1.jpg
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins2.jpg
My woodshop:
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins3.jpg
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins4.jpg
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins5.jpg
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins6.jpg
http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/homebins7.jpg
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Fixed a 50year old Airco (Miller) 300 amp Tig welder for the in-law's neighbor. High frequency starter arc was not working.
i
Crazy system, the thing is made like a Tesla coil..... high voltage transformer drives a spark gap, and then a high voltage mica type transmitter capacitor couples the resulting high frequency output into the a second transformer (air core) that couples it into the stinger cable. Similar system as a Tesla coil, or an old spark type radio transmitter.
Turns out that the spark gaps had crud shorting them, and the input fuse to the circuit was bad. And some dodgy wiring and bad insulation.
This is a huge old-school unit with no electronics or circuit boards. about 20" wide, 3 1/2 feet tall, and 4 or 5 feet long. No pics, sorry, did not have my camera along. It has a full wave selenium rectifier as big as a medium size suitcase, about 5 or 6 transformers, etc.
Naturally the fuse in question was clear at the other end of the unit, and was of a physical size bigger than those old style fuses used as main fuses in houses, about 5 inches long and 3/4 inch diameter. Not what you expect to be rated at 6 amps..... but it was.
We jumped the fuse with a "provisional fuse" (don't ask), and it worked.Last edited by J Tiers; 11-24-2018, 10:29 PM.4357 2773 5150 9120 9135 8645 1007 1190 2133 9120 5942
Keep eye on ball.
Hashim Khan
Everything not impossible is compulsory
"There's no pleasing these serpents"......Lewis Carroll
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A long fuse sounds right for high voltage high freq. It can jump quite a long ways, even within a fuse unless there something to quench the arc. You should get the right one before using.
DanAt the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.
Location: SF East Bay.
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Today I prepped some sheet steel brackets- cut out from sheet, flatten, debur, set up jig for hole location, drill, debur, drill again, debur again. I need to enlarge one hole in each, so I need to repeat the process one more time. 30 of them, ready for bending and painting tomorrow. Not much excitement in that, but it's all part of the game.
What I did do today that was fun was participate in a window painting party at our local watering hole.I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-
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Originally posted by danlb View PostA long fuse sounds right for high voltage high freq. It can jump quite a long ways, even within a fuse unless there something to quench the arc. You should get the right one before using.
Dan
Larger than the main fuses in those pull-out blocks that old house electric service boxes with screw in fuses had.Last edited by J Tiers; 11-25-2018, 12:25 AM.4357 2773 5150 9120 9135 8645 1007 1190 2133 9120 5942
Keep eye on ball.
Hashim Khan
Everything not impossible is compulsory
"There's no pleasing these serpents"......Lewis Carroll
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Last night I put up an ad for my Saturn:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ssenger_banner
Trying to sell it for $350, but so far I've had 10 inquiries and only one offer for $150. Petry's Junkyard in Westminster will pay $5 per 100 lb if I drive it there, about 25 miles. Car is about 2500 lb so $125. LKQ PickYourPart in Edgewood (about 20 miles) will pay $170, or $100 if they come and get it. They were among the places listed on https://www.junkcarmedics.com/maryla...to-junk-yards/.
From the ad on FB Marketplace, I've had inquiries from a wide range of people, some rather strange. One guy wanted to know if he could drive it from my place to DC, which is about 60 miles, and he wanted to know how much it would cost to fix. My mechanic said it was not worth it unless I could do it myself. I have no idea what a welding shop would charge, but I figure over $1000.
Another inquiry came from a guy in Charlestown, WV, about 80 miles. He asked me the lowest I would take, I said $250, but he didn't bite.
I found other newer Saturns in good shape for about $1000. My car's advantages are 4 new tires and only 110,000 miles. Maybe I'll try Craigs List.http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
USA Maryland 21030
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