What did you do today?

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Made a spindle center for the Myford so I can get back to working between centers.

[J Tiers]

I have one of those, but I never use it, seems now I just stick a center plug in the chuck jaws, trim it true, and go. The jaws are a good dog driver.

Mine requires the adapter in the spindle. The 608 has the 5C in the spindle and maybe I would use a 5C version in that. Possibly would run truer. I assume the Myford also takes the collet direct in the spindle.

What do you see as the advantage in using the type you show vs a chuck version trued on the spot?

[Zahnrad Kopf]

What do you see as the advantage in using the type you show vs a chuck version trued on the spot?

First and foremost, because it is a Cylindrical Grinder.

Additionally, the early Myford MG12 grinders had a very limited range of accessory options, and even less these days. Getting even a straight answer from the one remaining source of parts has proven problematic, so handling things oneself appears more productive, if possible. There never was an option for a magnetic chuck so I made one of those. Three Jaw and Four Jaw options are in process right now. So too, is an ER40. ( which, experience tells me I will favor )

Getting back to the "why" is that when grinding, you don't always necessarily want to have the center spinning. Often, a true dead center is more desirable for reasons of accuracy. In this situation, the dog driver rotates, but the spindle ( and hence, center ) do not. And _that_ is what is happening in the pictures. It's really night and day from doing it in a lathe.

[Mcgyver]

It's really night and day from doing it in a lathe.

I'd like to get a proper cylindrical grinder one day, but space makes it currently impossible. I have a T&CG with motorized work head that I use for cylindrical grinding. Its light by dedicated CG standards, but I reconditioned it top to bottom so its accurate and with flood can it can produce great results. Being able to make cylindrical parts pretty much to a tenth and with that great ground finish really is a treat.

[Zahnrad Kopf]

I'd like to get a proper cylindrical grinder one day, but space makes it currently impossible. I have a T&CG with motorized work head that I use for cylindrical grinding. Its light by dedicated CG standards, but I reconditioned it top to bottom so its accurate and with flood can it can produce great results. Being able to make cylindrical parts pretty much to a tenth and with that great ground finish really is a treat.

Yes, Sir! Also why I really favor the Myfords. They are _extremely_ capable and accurate machines, yet occupy such a small footprint.

[J Tiers]

First and foremost, because it is a Cylindrical Grinder.

.....

Well, it IS a "grinder center" so that makes sense.

I was a bit surprised you have a "Myford", and forgot they ever even MADE grinders. And there is your picture with the Myford name right there (some of it, anyway).

Yes, the dead center is very commonly used on grinders for the reason you mention.... I'd likely use my "grinder center" if I had a cylindrical grinder... maybe if I found a Crystal Lake grinder, some take 3C..... and are a nice small size.

[Zahnrad Kopf]

Well, it IS a "grinder center" so that makes sense.
I was a bit surprised you have a "Myford", and forgot they ever even MADE grinders. And there is your picture with the Myford name right there (some of it, anyway).
Yes, the dead center is very commonly used on grinders for the reason you mention.... I'd likely use my "grinder center" if I had a cylindrical grinder... maybe if I found a Crystal Lake grinder, some take 3C..... and are a nice small size.

< bold added by me >

I have to admit some confusion with your post, on my behalf... I called it a "spindle center", so I'm unclear of why you are calling it a grinder center. I also differentiate between live and dead centers, but past that, only between spindle and tail centers...

As for small, capable Cylindrical Grinders, I've been using Myfords of one model or another for decades now and think they are some of the best. VERY ergonomic, very compact, surprisingly accurate when kept well maintained, and simply easy to use. Later model MG12s do indeed use 3C collets, too.

[Darren M]

Drilled a 3/8" hole for a 3/8" tap...... Yeah, that's going to cost me. (IDIOT!) Luckily, this mistake is in my own tool. Furthermore, I can "upgrade" to 1/2" diameter set screw. After drilling a 29/64" hole...
Chalking this one up to "Blessed to be provided an opportunity to work on my humility and ingenuity."

[Cenedd]

Drilled a 3/8" hole for a 3/8" tap...... Yeah, that's going to cost me. (IDIOT!)

You are far from the first to do this. Guess how I know!

[reggie_obe]

Drilled a 3/8" hole for a 3/8" tap...... Yeah, that's going to cost me. (IDIOT!) Luckily, this mistake is in my own tool. Furthermore, I can "upgrade" to 1/2" diameter set screw. After drilling a 29/64" hole...
Chalking this one up to "Blessed to be provided an opportunity to work on my humility and ingenuity."

You could "upgrade" to 7/16-14.

[J Tiers]

"Grinder center" is what I have always heard it called.... I have no idea why, might be a local term, for all I know, but I have heard it elsewhere also.

There are other shop terms that have obscure reasons as well.

[Darren M]

You are far from the first to do this. Guess how I know!

Thanks. One of those dumb, tired, should walked away hours ago moments.

You could "upgrade" to 7/16-14.

Do they make socket/hex 7/16-14 od by 3/8" long set screws?
The smaller the better. Just has to be bigger than 3/8! Lol

[Jim Stewart]

How about a 3/8" helicoil?

-js

[Darren M]

How about a 3/8" helicoil?

-js

Hadn't thought of that. Never used helicoil. How's it hold in aluminum? Thin walled stuff.

[Dan Dubeau]

Hadn't thought of that. Never used helicoil. How's it hold in aluminum? Thin walled stuff.

Helicoils works great in aluminum. Not so great in thin wall (how thin?) stuff though. Another option you might look into is a rivnut. They're great on thin wall stuff.