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The faster they go, the better it is to be big, so you can see it! That EDF of mine gets tiny very quickly, hard part is keeping orientation. If it was twice the wingspan, would be twice as easy to fly. My gas turbine will be a larger one.
LMAO Yeah, my dang drone gets small in a hurry. It has red and green lights but those get small too in daylight! Can't tell which way it's aimed unless you look at the screen. That's how I fly it when it's further away from me.
I made a pinion gear on my Atlas milling machine for a power hacksaw that I'm restoring. I documented the process on video for anyone who is interested in seeing it:
One of the reasons for those is to keep the grease off the burners. I had grills before that didn't have them and the burners would rot out surprisingly fast. My grill I use now has the shield and I only had to replace the burner once so far in the last 10 yearsish. The shield did rot out once too but I made a stainless one to replace it. I do agree they cause odd cooking hot and cold spots though.
I have a spare smaller "IR" grill I got for $20 that I plan to make a solid flat cook top for. I hear once you go flat its hard to go back to anything else.
Ah, I see. Have heard of a rotary phase convertor but wasn't aware it involved a motor - or at least had a part a motor could be used for instead. Interesting project.
If it did not have a motor , its a phase converter, the fact that it has a rotary component makes it an RPC.
If it did not have a motor , its a phase converter, the fact that it has a rotary component makes it an RPC.
Cheers. Hit Wikipedia once I was clued up enough to start. Had assumed, in my ignorance, that the box labelled "American Rotary" was the RPC and was to provide three phase for the motor below. It's a cunning solution to the problem whoever came up with it originally.
Well, you are the second person I have heard of who had one of those actually work.
usually the tap breaks because it jams, and those mostly will not come out. They would not come out when the full cross section of metal was available to transmit torque, and they sure aren't coming out with a tiny fraction of that. The usual result is that the extendible pins bend, and the next home of the extractor is the scrap bin, at high velocity.
CNC machines only go through the motions.
Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.
This one broke because it jammed up. I had to use a punch ground to fit the tap gullets to clear the chips before getting the extractor in. Then just work it back and forth and eventually turns right out. These things saved the day a number of times for me. I'd say they work about 50% of the time for me.
Mine usually break in several pieces that interlock, so they move with each other and jam up again, but are held in and cannot be removed one by one.
Yours must have snapped off in pretty much one big piece. That can work.
CNC machines only go through the motions.
Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.
I was working on building or rather modding an English wheel.
Got it to test stage today.
Started with the cheapo HF unit my buddy had bought. First he got me to brace it a bit,but it was twisting and bending even on thin material. He wanted more bracing. I refused, said it was junk....but the wheels were ok.
So I made a new frame, 2 x 2 inch steel 3/16 thick.... that is stiffening it up.
To mount the 1 inch wide top wheel, i slotted the 2 in tube, leaving 2 sides that are shaped like channel.
Reamed the hole for the 10 mm axle. .
I reused the lower wheel holder , but tacked strips on 3 sides, to shim it to fit the square tubing.
Still need to add bungs on the sides of the lower part to snug up the slop in the lower wheel holder, the adjustable one.
But even with the slop in the bottom and the wheel not shimmed up top, I did a quick test, and it works. Whoo Hoo.
I plan to mount it on the side of a 17 by 23 table. E WHEEL on one long side, and bead roller on the other side.
Will help a lot on my current bike builds.
Started the day off by finishing the repair of the bottom shelf in our garage fridge. Two of the hooks that hold the shelf on the door broke off. Looks like a simple job, but got pretty involved, getting all the angles right. I'm glad this one is finished. If the shelf comes off again, it will be the door that fails.
This one broke because it jammed up. I had to use a punch ground to fit the tap gullets to clear the chips before getting the extractor in. Then just work it back and forth and eventually turns right out. These things saved the day a number of times for me. I'd say they work about 50% of the time for me.
That's usually the key right there. I've use a diy extractor like that for smaller taps _6-32/8-32 etc. before and the gently wiggling back and forth to get it loose and started was key to the success. If you just jam them in, and try and back the tap out with the same ham fists that broke it in the first place you're doomed to fail.
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