What did you do today?

[Dan Dubeau]

Wife's working all weekend, so the MIL took the kids to the zoo, and I cut grass for about 7 hours. Blew 2 belts, and 1 tire on the pull behind lawnmower. Got some trails cut too but could do another 7-8hours tomorrow if I wanted to. It the perfect time to cut the strangling dog vine so it won't grow back again this year. My place is covered with it, but I'm starting to notice areas I've been keeping cut for the past 9 years have none anymore. Feels like a win, until I look into the trees and the entire forest floor is blanketed with it. Everywhere .

Put a new primer bulb and fixed the string head on my stihl trimmer too, as i have a couple hours of cutting to do tomorrow.

Put the hammock up on the front porch and had a nap after I blew the 2nd belt and the mower wouldn't start again. Sometimes it's impossible to start when hot so you might as well let it cool down for 30 minutes and try again.

[mattthemuppet]

put together my Malelectrics arduino powered battery tab welder that I need to rebuild my bike's battery pack


practising on an old craft knife blade


and on an old li-ion


you can see some lower pulse time spots and the four higher pulse time spots that left the nickel strip behind when I tore it off.

I'll be getting some more practice in over the next few weeks until the new batteries arive.

[DennisCA]

I have turned my attention towards the headstock in my Deckel renovation project.


Following the manual, all the stop dogs and indicators were removed earlier so removing the cover strip on the front. Part of the bellows were removed earlier as well.



Next I loosened the screws and removed assembly 4 in the manual, the blindd tapered pins are stuck real well, I thought helped to have the screws loosened, did not want to budge otherwise. Slide hammer is required. Good thing they are M6 at least.




Then I can remove the screw assembly by backing it out and supporting it with one hand


Next I remove the tapered gib


A quick cleanup shows the gib to look mostly fine, there wear is highly localized to a few spots near the narrower end.




After that I can lift up on the headstock and slide it off.

[DennisCA]

Lifted off the headstock, I went with M10 bolts that I attached to the T-slots on the sides. I modified the bolts a little on the lathe, turned the top of the bolt heads flat by removing the lettering to make them fit the slot, a bit too thick otherwise. I also went in with a parting tool on the underside of the bolt heads because there was a ridge there, turned that down to increase the surface area of the bolt head acting against the inside of the T-slot. So four bolts, some big washers and some nuts and it was easy to remove. This shop crane is so useful. Especially after the modifications and the shorter support legs



Hmmm I mentioned a long time ago that I noted some strange sounds from inside the headstock when I moved it back and forth. Think this is a cause... No idea what it is yet, gonna see if the spare parts diagrams have anything to say.



Continuing...





Hmmm....


I believe the piece of sheet metal stuck under the headstock has some relation to this. Been looking through my parts list docs but have not been able to identify the part that is broken, it's probably a part of an assembly but the docs don't go into that level of detail. I think it's just a cover though and somehow it got trapped in the head stock behind the gear and got pulled off. According to the parts manual it's "Abstreifblech 2200 25 000376 00". I tried sending Franz singer in germany an email to see if they have spares.

Not sure where these are from, aluminum


Full of junk everywhere, I remove this whole part and dunk it in kerosene.


Cleaned up a little bit, wear can be seen on the front of the sliding surfaces.


I am noticing I am able to post more images than before. I almost feel this could warrant it's own thread but I would have to start from the beginning and I am not inclined to do that so this thread will do.

[jdedmon91]

I posted the pictures of this build a while back so here is the video https://youtu.be/IxD2z7Apf9g


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tundra Twin Track]

Lifted off the headstock, I went with M10 bolts that I attached to the T-slots on the sides. I modified the bolts a little on the lathe, turned the top of the bolt heads flat by removing the lettering to make them fit the slot, a bit too thick otherwise. I also went in with a parting tool on the underside of the bolt heads because there was a ridge there, turned that down to increase the surface area of the bolt head acting against the inside of the T-slot. So four bolts, some big washers and some nuts and it was easy to remove. This shop crane is so useful. Especially after the modifications and the shorter support legs



Hmmm I mentioned a long time ago that I noted some strange sounds from inside the headstock when I moved it back and forth. Think this is a cause... No idea what it is yet, gonna see if the spare parts diagrams have anything to say.



Continuing...





Hmmm....


I believe the piece of sheet metal stuck under the headstock has some relation to this. Been looking through my parts list docs but have not been able to identify the part that is broken, it's probably a part of an assembly but the docs don't go into that level of detail. I think it's just a cover though and somehow it got trapped in the head stock behind the gear and got pulled off. According to the parts manual it's "Abstreifblech 2200 25 000376 00". I tried sending Franz singer in germany an email to see if they have spares.

Not sure where these are from, aluminum


Full of junk everywhere, I remove this whole part and dunk it in kerosene.


Cleaned up a little bit, wear can be seen on the front of the sliding surfaces.


I am noticing I am able to post more images than before. I almost feel this could warrant it's own thread but I would have to start from the beginning and I am not inclined to do that so this thread will do.

That long gear is pretty ingenious set up ,when you first posted pics of your Mill I was curious how the Ram was powered sliding back and forth good pics!

[PStechPaul]

Well, I haven't been doing anything as ambitious as disassembly of a Deckel milling machine, but here's what I did over the past couple days. I had a badly rusted steel shelf unit that used wooden vertical rails, and it was tilting precariously with a load of aluminum stock, transformers, and other heavy stuff. This is the "before" picture after removing most of the stuff:



Two shelves after wire brushing:


Two other shelves after priming - the fifth shelf was just about rusted through and went to the scrap yard:


Black spray paint:


The picture makes it look worse, but it's still not very pretty. However, the shelves will soon be covered with "stuff":


I drilled 3/8" holes in each corner, used 5 foot lengths of 3/8-16 allthread, and risers made of 18" lengths of 1/2" EMT. Seems reasonably stable, and will be just fine after adding cross-bracing:


I used 3/8" washers to reinforce the corners, but on the bottom I just forced the EMT over the 3/8" nuts. Seems like a good press fit. I was going to use nuts for each level, but spinning them down 4 feet of allthread seemed crazy, and this seems to be rigid and stable enough. BTW, I already had the conduit and allthread, but the cost to purchase the materials would probably be less than $20. A lot cheaper than steel angle, unless I find a source for old bedframes and such.

Now I might do the same thing for some smaller, heavier gauge shelf units that need TLC:

[DennisCA]

Just a quick note, parting at 900 rpm worked a lot better than 200-300 rpm. With carbide tooling and coolant. Was always afraid to go that fast but man what a difference in quality of cut and speed, went much easier. And with a cheap chinese tool from banggood.

[Cenedd]

Just a quick note, parting at 900 rpm worked a lot better than 200-300 rpm. With carbide tooling and coolant. Was always afraid to go that fast but man what a difference in quality of cut and speed, went much easier. And with a cheap chinese tool from banggood.

I picked up some of the Korloy (well, possibly) MGGN-200 inserts for aluminium from eBay. World of difference for aluminium. Just a fraction too tall for my holder but can be persuaded in without damage.
Also found that for the range of DoC I make, the aluminium profile stuff give a better finish. Recently got some WNMG080404-HA and they seemed quite happy tearing some blue spirals off some EN24T - think it was about 0.5mm DoC.

[DennisCA]

I got the WNMG080404-HAs but have not tried them on aluminum yet, I tried them on steel but did not see much of a difference between my regular gold colored ones.

Avoid the SMBB2032 parting tools though, complete disasters. The inserts don't fit the blades, I've bought two of the blades from different sellers and none fit the inserts (also bought several), so a complete waste of money.

This applied to at least the 2mm versions, I think others have had more success with the 3mm versions but the 2mm ones are a garbage fire.

[Cenedd]

I got the WNMG080404-HAs but have not tried them on aluminum yet, I tried them on steel but did not see much of a difference between my regular gold colored ones.

Avoid the SMBB2032 parting tools though, complete disasters. The inserts don't fit the blades, I've bought two of the blades from different sellers and none fit the inserts (also bought several), so a complete waste of money.

This applied to at least the 2mm versions, I think others have had more success with the 3mm versions but the 2mm ones are a garbage fire.

Had seen people having issues with the smaller parting inserts and avoided them. I've had pretty good luck with the MGEH style of parting tool. Mine was from Arc Euro Trade: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catal...g-Tool-Holders
The gold inserts I was using before didn't give a great finish. Now to be fair, this could well be a combination of cheap inserts, wrong feeds/speeds and too shallow DoC. The sharper aluminium profile inserts seem to be more forgiving of these and even if they do wear out quicker than the blunter variety, with 60 cutting edges in a box, I'm not too worried!

[DennisCA]

I have been soured a bit on the parting tools so once I have some spare funds (all going to the mill atm) I am considering an ISCAR set:

https://www.mscdirect.co.uk/NHI23-02165K/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html

They had a sale once and they where 80£, waiting for that moment again...

[plunger]

I have been soured a bit on the parting tools so once I have some spare funds (all going to the mill atm) I am considering an ISCAR set:

https://www.mscdirect.co.uk/NHI23-02165K/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html

They had a sale once and they where 80£, waiting for that moment again...

Obviously depends on your lathe but I think a 2mm would be better suited for the 13x40 type lathes.Ive had no problems with my iscar 2mm

[DennisCA]

The one I am running now is a 3mm and I haven't had any problems. Don't really understand american lathe sizes well enough to get a sense of scale from that, mine has a ~120mm center height and 650mm capacity between centers and a 1kw 3-phase motor.

[MattiJ]

Drove 600km north to visit parents. Not much to do other than go cycling or fishing around here...

https://i.imgur.com/N5lvGTI.jpg

Sunrise or sunset, depends how you look at it:

https://i.imgur.com/3uj7Dx2.jpg

Small pike: (had much better luck other day at river delta where we catch nice amount of bass)

https://i.imgur.com/FLH6n88.jpg

Fatbike rules here:

https://i.imgur.com/SuQ82z2.jpg