Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What did you do today?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • I'm just a couple miles from Suburban Ace hardware, Home Depot, and Lowes. And I might pick up another nozzle next time I go to one of those stores. But I like to fix things rather than chuck them in the garbage. The nozzle is back together and seems to work just fine, but time will tell if it holds up under use.
    http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
    Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
    USA Maryland 21030

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Jim Stewart View Post
      PG&E has taken a lot of deserved abuse for their cheating, lying, and outright defiance of laws around here. Devastating fires in Santa Rosa and Paradise, the gas explosion in San Bruno, more outrages. Somebody (corporate officers) should be in jail.
      Way to go, guys!

      -js
      Hahaaa! We;; that means the Voters were Lazy and did not support the
      right to move the control of the Grid from PG,E. to another Authority due to cost. This goes back to the 70s JR

      Comment


      • Originally posted by DennisCA View Post
        How to set up a part in a lathe when one side is ruined... Ideally it would be turned between centers but that's not possible now. So the 4-jaw is the answer, and using the fixed steady. I tried with the 3-jaw but there was too much run-out. A collet chuck would have been nice because it was somewhat annoying to indicate the part near the jaws because of the splines, had to retract the indicator needle when turning it, indicated against the inner ground face. Then I used the steady to do final adjustments because it was not entirely straight in the chuck and then I got it down to a little less than .01 mm runout which I think is good enough.



        https://i.imgur.com/RCH8vtI.mp4

        Still, I have to break this down again and cut off the broken piece on the bandsaw. Planning a 2-part repair. LH-thread so it will be self-locking, use Loctite 272 to boot.
        Interesting repair Dennis. What is this for? If you have an indicator with a large flat or preferably semi-spherical tip, you can set the indicator to where it's only in 10 thou or so, and it will skip over the lows.
        21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
        1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

        Comment


        • Measured one of my QCTP holders last night and made a CAD model, for future reference.



          I made some changes to the design because the original is difficult to machine, see the integral bit for height adjustment. By changing the design I can make the dovetail on a single large piece and cut it up later.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by PStechPaul View Post
            I'm just a couple miles from Suburban Ace hardware, Home Depot, and Lowes. And I might pick up another nozzle next time I go to one of those stores. But I like to fix things rather than chuck them in the garbage. The nozzle is back together and seems to work just fine, but time will tell if it holds up under use.
            Nothing wrong with trying to fix things, and it looks like you did a good job with the JB Weld. Just be sure to let it cure for a day or 2 before putting it to work.
            “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

            Lewis Grizzard

            Comment


            • Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

              Interesting repair Dennis. What is this for? If you have an indicator with a large flat or preferably semi-spherical tip, you can set the indicator to where it's only in 10 thou or so, and it will skip over the lows.
              That is the upper shaft from my my milling machines gear box, previous owners crashed it, sheared the key off under one of the gears, I discovered something was wrong back in August this year when I thought my renovation of the machine was basically done. The machine didn't work properly in certain speeds. Took me two months and several special built tools to get it off as I could not simply just apply more pressure (risk then of cracking the internal cast iron rib).



              I don't have a dial indicator with such a tip unfortunately, but I've gotten pretty good at doing it this way now. I took a tiny tiny cut and I've reamed the gears and they fit well on the shaft despite everything. My plan is to open up the gear shaft to 6mm from 4mm and broach the gears to 6mm as well. I've turned down the broken thread and drilled and tapped for a left hand thread and I will fit a new oversize part and turn a new feature from it.

              Comment


              • Yikes! That is one hard crash. It's an input/intermediate shaft I'm assuming, so the tolerances won't have to be quite as high as a spindle shaft right? Does it have a reversing gear, or do you only plan to run the machine in one direction?
                21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                Comment


                • Yes it's an input shaft and not the spindles, I've gone through the spindles (has a vertical and horizontal) and checked them and they seem fine. It does not have a reversing gear so I should be OK with LH thread and some red loctite for additional security. Still I am working hundreths of a mm here so everything should be within .01mm.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by DennisCA View Post
                    Yes it's an input shaft and not the spindles, I've gone through the spindles (has a vertical and horizontal) and checked them and they seem fine. It does not have a reversing gear so I should be OK with LH thread and some red loctite for additional security. Still I am working hundreths of a mm here so everything should be within .01mm.
                    Does the Mill not reverse by changing motor derection,I thought all Mills reversed.If it will still lube properly in reverse would that not be a feature to have,you could also pin your new shaft.

                    Very nice job on the shaft by the way!

                    Comment


                    • I started work on a mobile stand for my arbor press. I made a 4" by 2" cutout in the 1/4" plate the press will stand on. My mill is not in my new shop yet, so I had to do it the hard way. Plasma followed by an angle grinder and a Dumore hand grinder. I also used a knot wheel to clean the bulk of the rust and scale off the tubing that will make up most of the stand.


                      Click image for larger version

Name:	11 24 19 arbor press stand top shelf cut mostly done w sharpie removed small.jpg
Views:	279
Size:	171.5 KB
ID:	1840206
                      Don't trigger me, bro!

                      Comment


                      • I built a new turret for my Sherline Turret Lathe project. This time it works perfect. It latches as it should and there is no backlash. It shows that doing something "Fast" is "Half Fast".

                        Now to get back on building the toolholders .

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post

                          Does the Mill not reverse by changing motor derection,I thought all Mills reversed.If it will still lube properly in reverse would that not be a feature to have,you could also pin your new shaft.

                          Very nice job on the shaft by the way!
                          Thanks! and nope the Deckel mills never had a reverse function, if you run it in reverse (does not have the switching set up for that though unless I swap a phase) it will lube properly as that's all just splash based systems, but the feeds will not work in reverse.

                          It's really too much work for me to bother with a reverse switch for the forseeable future, though I think with red loctite it would not be a problem at all.

                          Comment


                          • made a new key for the fine down feed locking gear thing on my 6x26 knee mill. The original was a barely key shaped lump of metal that moved so much in both the shaft and gear slots that there was at least 1/2 a turn of backlash on the fine down feed handle. Made a new one out of some stainless scrap that was about the right size and now the backlash is down to a few thou.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
                              made a new key for the fine down feed locking gear thing on my 6x26 knee mill. The original was a barely key shaped lump of metal that moved so much in both the shaft and gear slots that there was at least 1/2 a turn of backlash on the fine down feed handle. Made a new one out of some stainless scrap that was about the right size and now the backlash is down to a few thou.
                              Did you happen to take any pictures? Mine could benefit from a little less "fine feed" backlash.
                              At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

                              Location: SF East Bay.

                              Comment


                              • The repair of the hose nozzle lasted only a few minutes. Time for a new one. I do have an old style brass nozzle that works well, but I kinda like the trigger type with choice of spray patterns.
                                http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
                                Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
                                USA Maryland 21030

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X