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  • Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
    have it your own way 😊
    It was a question..... but, take it as you wish to have it be, no matter what it really was..
    1601 2137 5683 1002 1437

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

    If you look closely at a digital signal, you find out it is really analog......

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    • Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

      It was a question..... but, take it as you wish to have it be, no matter what it really was..
      I took it to mean he actually flew the plane instead of just taxi and push a button. However he said the computer had the throttles so more of an assist. Still I give pilots a lot of credit. I was a control room operator at a nuclear power station so I know about train, train, train for disasters you hope never happen. But at least with that job unless things go really wrong you get to go home to your family.
      Last edited by flathead4; 04-17-2020, 07:57 AM.
      Tom - Spotsylvania, VA

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      • I'd have to look at the approach plate again, think the baro altimeter was set to 400. An IFR approach has both a visibility and height/altitide minimums to begin the approach. Once the approach is initiated and you are past the final approach fix, the visibility requirement is no longer relevant.
        As you descend on the glide slope you will hit your baro altitude minimums at which point you need to see some visual cues. In my case it was the white strobe lights that sequence towards the runway. For a Cat1, the baro minimums usually place you 200ft above the ground. If you can see the lead in lights or another visual cue, you can further descend another 100ft while staying on the glide slope by which time you should see the runway or at least some of the lights at the start of the runway. Especially rare to do this on a 747 as you are usually just one of three or four pilots. I was flying because I needed to get a landing in by the 23rd to stay current, and avoid the sims in Ypsilanti.
        Last edited by RB211; 04-17-2020, 08:02 PM.

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        • Added some lightning: 4x70w led fixtures and 2x150 high-CRI HID spotlights pointed to ceiling
          You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.
          Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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          • Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
            Added some lightning: 4x70w led fixtures and 2x150 high-CRI HID spotlights pointed to ceiling
            You're going to need sunglasses!

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            • Originally posted by Tungsten dipper View Post

              You're going to need sunglasses!
              1700 lux on table surface, close to upper recommended range for something like detailed drafting or electronics assembly. After walls are filled with shelves and tooling the light level probably drops quite a bit.
              Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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              • I bought some new 10:00 x 20 tires and had the tire company mount them. After that 1 tire had a slow leak in it so I took the split rim apart. The tire company did not put the tube liner in correctly (see how the flap is rolled) and it pinched the new tube.
                For those not familiar with these type of truck tires, they have a tube and a tube liner in them. Tube liners protect the tube from rust and heat.

                Click image for larger version

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                • I finished up mounting a backup camera. The stock mount is supposed to be centered up between the back lights. When the camera is mounted there the closest view is 8 feet behind the machine. I changed the mount and now the field of view is from 8 inches to infinity behind the machine. The mount is magnetic so will move if it gets hit with some branches or whatever. Time will tell how this mount will work and I may have to do something different. I put the monitor in the location in the second picture and it seems to work well it that spot.

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                  • Teaching myself scraping



                    I've already moved on from this during the weekend to dismantling my mills swiveling table and scraping in the mating surfaces. Through years of neglect and overtorquing by the previous owners the parts mate badly and the table flexes too much because of this. So I am scraping the parts flat for a better fit, so far I have increased the area of contact by over double and I'm only half done.







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                    • I clearly must be bored.... Yesterday I started on re-varnishing two pair of snowshoes, in preparation for next winter. They needed it, they are old time rawhide type, but they did not need it "right now".

                      Probably better to have them dipped, but they do not know about such things down here, and nobody does that. So the paintbrush and spar varnish method is it, unless I sent them back to Maine.
                      1601 2137 5683 1002 1437

                      Keep eye on ball.
                      Hashim Khan

                      If you look closely at a digital signal, you find out it is really analog......

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by DennisCA View Post

                        I've already moved on from this during the weekend to dismantling my mills swiveling table and scraping in the mating surfaces. Through years of neglect and overtorquing by the previous owners the parts mate badly and the table flexes too much because of this. So I am scraping the parts flat for a better fit, so far I have increased the area of contact by over double and I'm only half do
                        Does it matter what material the shaft of your scraper is made of. ? Is spring steel better.I would like to make a scraper but am unsure of a design and where to get the tips. Are those tips hss or carbide .

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                        • No this is just a 20mm mild steel bar from the local analog to harbor freight or home depot. Maybe it's 3 or 4mm thick. Tips are carbide, definitely want carbide, mine is old USSR stock from ebay:
                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbide-Ins...2b94%7Ciid%3A1

                          And you definitely need a way to hone it. I have a homemade grinder from an old motor, but any old grinder and you fit it with a chinese diamond plate, I have 1000, 1500 and 3000 grit. I used the 1000 grit to reprofile the carbide blade, then I use the 3000 to hone it, negative 5 degrees and on all sides so you get 4 cutting edges from one blade.

                          I copied my design of Stefan Gotteswinters scraper, same with the grinder, he has some good scraping videos.

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                          • Made some homemade contrast color last night to help me scrape better. I use a dauber to put it on since I don't wanna use my breyer with anything but the blue stuff. Some mineral spirits on the dauber helps. Scraping a slight hollow in the middle so it will seat more stably, right now it hinges on the middle instead. I have bought some Stuarts red in a tin as well but it will not be here for a while (postage) hence I made my own for now. But the pigment might be abrasive so wanna be careful with it.



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                            • Beautiful. What's the part you're scraping?

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                              • That's the swiveling portion of my milling machine table, this part swivels along the Yaxis.

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