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  • I got the worst part done today. There's a small water plug on the back of the head. You can't even see it, much less reach it. It is just a rubber cap, and they fail eventually, emptying the coolant in about 30 seconds. What a bear! I finally got it out today, and put the new one in. At this point, I'm over the hump, putting new parts back on.

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    • Built a footboard for the bed. A place to stick a 40" TV to view the CCTV cameras. Need a few puny parts to finish it, but Ace is not the place on Easter Sunday in a 98% Catholic town.

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      • Going after it azz backwards today. Jigged up an intake manifold on the mill, set the mill all up, head bobbed, trammed, dialed into the intake surface, then realized I need a quill readout.

        Ordered a cheap ebay dro tonight and hope I can install it with the mill set up the way it is.
        Andy

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        • I seen these on a YouTube channel I follow. The idea seemed to be a good one. So I made a set of handles for the Weldon style countersinks. A handy deburr solution


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          • Originally posted by AD5MB View Post
            Originally posted by MushCreek View Post
            ... including a very tight crankshaft bolt. A) It's hard to hold the crankshaft still while you turn it, ...
            old motorcycle man trick: pull the sparkplug off a cylinder coming up on TDC, drizzle a rope in there until the cylinder is full of rope, do your wrenching thing with the rope blocking the piston, which blocks the crankshaft. beware of fibers coming off the rope.
            Another suggestion is to make or buy a flywheel holder.

            I'm unfamiliar with the Miata's engine/drivetrain package, but I assume there is an inspection cover for the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assy. A flywheel holder is designed to engage the teeth of the ring gear circling the flywheel.

            Some of these tools are intended to be manually held in place and thus require a helper if you are working on the bolt at the other end of the crank. Other versions can be fastened in place.

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            • Soft aluminum jaws for my second vice. I wanted to have a vice to hold work i didn’t want to mark. When I seen this vice at an estate auction I bought it just to do this to.


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              • Originally posted by MushCreek View Post
                I got the worst part done today. There's a small water plug on the back of the head. You can't even see it, much less reach it. It is just a rubber cap, and they fail eventually, emptying the coolant in about 30 seconds. What a bear! I finally got it out today, and put the new one in. At this point, I'm over the hump, putting new parts back on.
                I hope you used the correct dealer part for the cap, it's a couple bucks, but it lasts years, compared to the months you'll get out of a vacuum port cap.

                Miatas aren't that hard to work on compared to anything designed in Italy or France. Or heck, even German cars of the same vintage are generally harder to work on.

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                • Picked apart the whole old school workshop lamp head unit because it refuses to work. Everything was proper dirty inside, what a fiddly old fashioned switch! So many tiny screws and such a difficult time getting it back together, using a microscopic nut and screw instead of a threaded hole in places. At the same time I wonder if you could take apart a modern switch like this into it's components, probably built on a use and throw away when broken principle.

                  It still didn't work but I think I know why now, I just need to get home so I can check... I got 3 phase in my workshop, it's the norm here, and the lathe has a 3ph motor and I hooked it up myself. Multimeter says 190V through the lamp socket??? We have 230v per phase. Googling that gave me the clue though... I am thinking I forgot to include the neutral when I hooked the lathe up, as usually when hooking up a 3-phase motor in star configuration you don't need neutral.... But you do need it if you want to use one of the phases to run any single phase equipment on the same circuit...

                  EDIT: This lamp that is
                  Last edited by DennisCA; 04-03-2018, 09:25 AM.

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                  • Printed a wing section for a F4U Corsair out of clear PETG



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                    • Originally posted by jdedmon91 View Post

                      Soft aluminum jaws for my second vice. I wanted to have a vice to hold work i didn’t want to mark. When I seen this vice at an estate auction I bought it just to do this to.


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                      Neat. Very nice. May copy.

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                      • For vice jaws have a look at this thread, if the photo gremlins haven't destroyed it. (I can't tell while in office as pictures are blocked anyway) Post #10 by Rob was the master of design and photography.

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                        • Succes! The lathe lamp works! My hunch was correct. Though at first it did not work and my heart sank... But upon verifying the voltage between the lamp contacts it was 239 volts, so within spec, it should work now, the problem was supposed to be fixed! What if I change the light bulb too....

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                          • Finished making a backplate for an EBay Chinee 8" four jaw chuck. I got it after getting annoyed with the limited capacity of the Genuine Hardinge chucks on my lathe (they're also 65 jears old and haven't been loved very much).

                            Here's the new chuck and the old chuck for comparison:-

                            Location- Rugby, Warwickshire. UK

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                            • Made this pate to bolt to my work bench. It has 2 hole pattern. One to bolt the base of my hand tapper, the other to bolt the front 2 hole of my portable bandsaw stand to. That way I don’t have to mount either one down permanently


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                              • I have the joy of cutting a 2 1/2" X 1 1/2 pitch triple start left hand in 4140 ph.

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