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  • finished the second draft of a paper I've been writing for the last 3 or 4 months. Fingers crossed we'll get it submitted in a week or so

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    • Originally posted by Danl View Post
      Yep, only 3 HP at the low speed setting. Does yours have the taper attachment? Mine does, but I've never used it.
      Parts are almost non-existent. If there are any new parts available, they may be in Brazil, and would be very expensive.

      Didn't that graphite dust try to get into your lungs? wow.... not fun.
      There's a massive dust "collector" in the room with it. I say collector in the loosest sense of the word. Basically, who ever is supposed to maintain it, doesn't, so when it does it's kickdown procedure to preserve filter life, it spits back out all the graphite it sucked up. Due to Covid I've been wearing a surgical mask, and I have my faceshield, but sometimes I'll wear a respirator if I don't want my snot to be black. It's not so bad it you feed it reasonably hard. It makes chuncks rather than just dust. But yeah. I'm not a fan. I'm not sure how bad graphite is to breath. Just about nothing is, so I try to stay way. Especially when it's coated in weird ****. I haven't done a ton of turning, it's more of the occasional thing and sometimes only very small amounts of dust, and I can run it slow enough to just let it drop.

      No T/A.
      21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
      1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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      • I'am allowed to hang out at a artist community and putter around and pretend that I sometimes have good technical advice to offer. From the foundry studio, heres some pictures of 2 large bronze pine cones being cast and the pieces tigged together. Each one has about 70 leaves.
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        This last picture is me checking the balance on a wind turbine propeller in the blacksmith shop.

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        • Well, well, well.

          I was looking for a Nardini Mascote 1440 manual today at work and I stumbled upon a PM thread that just so happened to have a beautiful upload from metalmagpie . Thanks for that! I doubt they would have bought one. Gonna print and bind it hopefully.

          Also, magpie, Dan, are your lathes D1-5? I read in the manual it can be L1, D1-5, or D1-6 on special order. To me it looks like D1-5, everything looks too small to be D1-6. I haven't pulled the chuck yet as it runs pretty true, and I'd spend half an hour cleaning the dust out. I am just about to the point of demanding a 4 jaw for the work they ask of me. Had to live with some runout on an emergency collet I was boring as I couldn't improve it with the setup there.

          Shame too, as I have a brand new 10" Bison D1-5 4 jaw that I'm trying to sell, but I'm sure they can't buy from me. 'Twould be just perfect and save them some money since those chucks are pretty rare it seems.
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

          Comment


          • Rage fought a door lock and....I think I won
            Eurocylinder type lock in a uPVC door and it just spun instead of locking/unlocking. Either the cam in the lock or the locking mechanism in the door itself. Easy to take the cylinder out, just one screw....that you can only get to if the door is open.
            Apparently the answer is to snap the cylinder in two. Good job I didn't buy the snap-proof locks then At least it's not snap proof on the inside.....tell that to the mole grips that lost that battle!
            In the end, it turns out that "drill resistant pins" do nothing against an enraged lunatic with an 18V drill and some DeWalt Extreme metal bits.
            Now I have the lock out, of course it looks like the door mechanism is the problem as I still can't unlock it. A battle for tomorrow though that.

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            • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
              In the end, it turns out that "drill resistant pins" do nothing against an enraged lunatic with an 18V drill and some DeWalt Extreme metal bits.
              That's the spirit!

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              • Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
                Also, magpie, Dan, are your lathes D1-5? I read in the manual it can be L1, D1-5, or D1-6 on special order. To me it looks like D1-5, everything looks too small to be D1-6. I haven't pulled the chuck yet as it runs pretty true, and I'd spend half an hour cleaning the dust out. I am just about to the point of demanding a 4 jaw for the work they ask of me. Had to live with some runout on an emergency collet I was boring as I couldn't improve it with the setup there.

                Shame too, as I have a brand new 10" Bison D1-5 4 jaw that I'm trying to sell, but I'm sure they can't buy from me. 'Twould be just perfect and save them some money since those chucks are pretty rare it seems.
                D1-5. Quite a bit rarer than other sizes. I bought a 5C collet adapter for it a couple months ago and sure am enjoying using it. I've had a 10" 4 jaw for several years for it, but only used it a couple of times so far. Not a Bison, but seems to check out so far.

                Dan
                Salem, Oregon

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                • Originally posted by Danl View Post

                  D1-5. Quite a bit rarer than other sizes. I bought a 5C collet adapter for it a couple months ago and sure am enjoying using it. I've had a 10" 4 jaw for several years for it, but only used it a couple of times so far. Not a Bison, but seems to check out so far.

                  Dan
                  Thought so, thanks.

                  They are so undertooled. That's because "[they're] not a machine shop". Well, me machining things near daily is starting to suggest otherwise. There's only so much I can Jerry Rig before I start getting fed up. If I'm saving the day, don't make me have to do it again. One guy claims he can get me some wishlist items with any funds left over from a job, we'll see.


                  I had seen a Bradford metalmaster 12x30(ish) lathe from 1943 posted for sale on FB marketplace a while back. Looked neat, but filthy, and too expensive. Well, turns out a local guy on PM had bought it as his first machine tool and is doing a pretty nice job. I dropped by his place today and gave him some (hopefully) good advice and helped him get his saddle and tailstock on. Though it looked terrible in the listing, it's not too badly worn of a machine, I think he's gonna have a bang-up good machine when he's through. Always cool to see people getting into the hobby.
                  21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                  1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
                    Rage fought a door lock and....I think I won
                    Eurocylinder type lock in a uPVC door and it just spun instead of locking/unlocking. Either the cam in the lock or the locking mechanism in the door itself. Easy to take the cylinder out, just one screw....that you can only get to if the door is open.
                    Apparently the answer is to snap the cylinder in two. Good job I didn't buy the snap-proof locks then At least it's not snap proof on the inside.....tell that to the mole grips that lost that battle!
                    In the end, it turns out that "drill resistant pins" do nothing against an enraged lunatic with an 18V drill and some DeWalt Extreme metal bits.
                    Now I have the lock out, of course it looks like the door mechanism is the problem as I still can't unlock it. A battle for tomorrow though that.
                    Sabre saw and there goes the latch 😉
                    Helder Ferreira
                    Setubal, Portugal

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Noitoen View Post

                      Sabre saw and there goes the latch 😉
                      Now that sounds like a 'reasonable' excuse to buy another tool!
                      Only issue is, I have plenty of spare locks (less secure ones that came with the doors) but I don't have a spare door. With at least five locking points (top, bottom and three down the side) and an overlap, I don't think it would be possible without destroying the door. I don't want to have to replace the door now as it'll need to be done in six months anyway when we move those walls for a larger kitchen.

                      I'm going to try a 16mm bar crossdrilled and tapped M10 with a piece of allthread screwed in to see if I can operate the mechanism with a slightly longer cam. I tried and failed to do it with a hooked scribe so this is a last attempt before accepting the door is NFU for the next six months.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

                        ........ With at least five locking points (top, bottom and three down the side) and an overlap, ..............
                        What is this, a vault?

                        I had always said that when I got a house, I would put in a door with the knob and lock in the middle, and bolts radiating out from there. Been in the house 35 years and no central knob yet.......
                        2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan


                        It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

                          What is this, a vault?

                          I had always said that when I got a house, I would put in a door with the knob and lock in the middle, and bolts radiating out from there. Been in the house 35 years and no central knob yet.......
                          No, fairly run-of-the-mill uPVC lock. I can't find anything identical but it's this sort of thing down one edge. Mine have two of the hooks, the central deadbolt and a bolt top and bottom. The massive irony, of course, is that the door is made of plastic (and has a glass window in it) so if you weren't worried about damaging the door (or making a noise), you could probably cut your way through in seconds!

                          Lock diagram
                          Attached Files

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                          • Ah, all in a small area. Thought it meant relative to the door top, bottom and side.
                            2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900

                            Keep eye on ball.
                            Hashim Khan


                            It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                              Ah, all in a small area. Thought it meant relative to the door top, bottom and side.
                              Not as close as that picture implies: about half way for 'normal' bolt and the quarters for the two hooks. The top and bottom bolts are just extensions of the sliding mechanism that actuates the hooks. It's fairly standard in newer properties or older ones that have had double glazing retrofitted. Means you can tick the "Multipoint locking" on your house insurance application whilenalso claiming you ldeadock every single window every time you go out. Makes it sound like we have a terrible burglary problem but it's fairly rare - at least in the areas I've lived. I had my TV stolen at university...but that might have had something to do with my flatmate leaving the front door not only unlocked, but actually open while everyone had gone home for the weekend *facepalm*

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                              • Should make it much harder to kick in the door, as many burglars do. At least it will if the door is strong enough
                                2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900

                                Keep eye on ball.
                                Hashim Khan


                                It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.

                                Comment

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