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Cut a few 5/8-18 threads at work in 304 stainless male and female. Humorously, I've machined titanium before stainless. Just not a metal I work with much. A little tough but not too bad. Threads looked really good. The engineer must have bought some really good taps, as it tapped like butter.
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Did you ever resolve your problems with the chattering chuck? It was discussed so much, I'm curious to know the outcome.'It may not always be the best policy to do what is best technically, but those responsible for policy can never form a right judgement without knowledge of what is right technically' - 'Dutch' Kindelberger
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Originally posted by Richard P Wilson View PostDid you ever resolve your problems with the chattering chuck? It was discussed so much, I'm curious to know the outcome.I've found a 3 jaw we had that I like pretty well so my motivation to wear my self out screwing with that thing has been low. Hopefully sometime soon, I don't want to leave you guys hanging.
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We finished our first production 3d printed tungsten parts at work. They printed pretty damn poorly, but came out ok. The ones in there now are printing so much better, so I'm feeling pretty good about them. 61 hour print for about 2 kg of product. In 110 hour period I'll have had that machine running for 105. Kinda painfully slow.
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Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
We finished our first production 3d printed tungsten parts at work. They printed pretty damn poorly, but came out ok. The ones in there now are printing so much better, so I'm feeling pretty good about them. 61 hour print for about 2 kg of product. In 110 hour period I'll have had that machine running for 105. Kinda painfully slow.
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Just finished almost identical plumbing repairs for two neighbors.
One had been screwed up by a plumber, the other by somebody, maybe a handyman, dunno.
*****The handyman had assembled slip joint drain pipe under the sink on the outlet of the disposal without the washers. He HAD known that something should be in there, because he used plumber's putty as a substitute. Of course it leaked, and because there was no washer, it slid apart. The neighbor had thought the issue was the dishwasher, but it turned out to be the completely effed-up drain. Worked OK with actual washers in it.
******The plumber had messed up royally, and scrammed. He had cut the right angle pipe that exits the disposal too short, using a saw (the setup is really too tight, but it is what it is). It was so short that it really was not long enough to get the entire compression washer onto it. But it gets better.....
Not only had he cut it short, he also cut it on an angle, so part of it was even shorter than the already too-short piece, and really did not get into the washer. But even that is not all......
He also must have cut it from each side separately, because for part of it he had actually cut into the good part of the pipe that was probably actually in the washer, so there was a leaky spot.
So 1) leaky spot.... 2) angle cut that the washer could not seal against....3) overall cut so short that the washer was not even all the way on it, so the joint was not held, and would pop off every so often.
He had to know it was not right, but he skedaddled, and never came back to fix it. Probably he did not have another piece of disposal exit pipe handy and thought he'd bodge it and run.
I had a piece of the right pipe and just cut mine straight, and a bit longer. Works fine, of course.Last edited by J Tiers; 01-16-2021, 06:12 PM.2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900
Keep eye on ball.
Hashim Khan
It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.
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I have been working on my shop heat. I built my shop in 2010 and put radiant floor heat PEX piping in the floor when I built it. ON the list to finish but it kept falling down the list.
Well I left the electric space heater on over night and it does not have a T-stat so it ran over night, I'm not looking forward to the electric bill.
So I'm getting back on the project. Oh buy the way, I bought the parts in 2017 but again it fell to the bottom of the list.
I'm getting closer. I do need to wire it up and fill it with water, then it's good to go.
I do have a question if you have read this far. The "Y" strainer above the pump is SS and I can't get a thread seal on this with the copper fittings. I've used teflon, and PDFE tape but it still leaks. I've been air testing @ 40psi. What can I use that will get me a good seal? The SS has started to gall the coper but still good threads on the copper.
TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris
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When the fake stuff fails, use old-fashioned brush-on pipe dope. Do NOT try to use the thin watery stuff that has teflon in it.2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900
Keep eye on ball.
Hashim Khan
It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.
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https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-15707-H.../dp/B004EVF88A, My plumber buddy swears by " Block" brand.
He used it on black iron gas lines in a kitchen remodel for me Pressure stayed for 24 hrs as inspector required. It is tough to get off your hands so it must seal well.
Ron.
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Originally posted by Mr Fixit View PostI have been working on my shop heat. I built my shop in 2010 and put radiant floor heat PEX piping in the floor when I built it. ON the list to finish but it kept falling down the list.
Well I left the electric space heater on over night and it does not have a T-stat so it ran over night, I'm not looking forward to the electric bill.
So I'm getting back on the project. Oh buy the way, I bought the parts in 2017 but again it fell to the bottom of the list.
I'm getting closer. I do need to wire it up and fill it with water, then it's good to go.
I do have a question if you have read this far. The "Y" strainer above the pump is SS and I can't get a thread seal on this with the copper fittings. I've used teflon, and PDFE tape but it still leaks. I've been air testing @ 40psi. What can I use that will get me a good seal? The SS has started to gall the coper but still good threads on the copper.
TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris
As far as the fitting, I can't stand threaded copper fittings. Go brass and you'll never have this issue. Probably too late now however by the looks of it, changing it out would require a good bit of work.Cayuga, Ontario, Canada
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Thanks for the suggestions fellas. If anyone is building a new shop and is doing slab on grade, really consider doing this for heat as it was only a few hundred $$ to insulate and install the PEX piping in the concrete pour. I wasn't ready to afford the rest, but at least the base was in place.
I'm considering looking for a brass strainer to fit the space as Tom S suggests. I'll give the pipe dope a try first, but brass as a backup sounds good. Might report back (if I remember to) when I have results of the installation.
TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris
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