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  • https://www.amazon.com/Presta-Schrad...02538429&psc=1

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    • Cenedd Glad you found it helpful.

      I also have shorter lengths of rod/tube in cardboard tubes I hot-glued together to form a mini-rack on the shelving:

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      Larger diameter short stock, plates & shapes are kept in "Really Useful Storage Boxes" and Milk Crates on movers' dollies:

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      And long lengths of angles & shapes on an overhead wire shelf:

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      I know, a little anal, but it takes up less space and I can (usually) find what I'm looking for. I spent the first part of lockdown organizing as I was tired of buying something and then finding that I already had two!
      Avid Amateur Home Shop Machinist, Electronics Enthusiast, Chef, Indoorsman. Self-Proclaimed (Dabbler? Dilettante?) Renaissance (old) Man.

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      • Had a real-time test of the emergency lighting in my shop at 8:32am:

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        Wasn't in the shop at the time.

        There is an emergency flashlight in the overhead plugged into a hot receptacle and a motion-sensor nightlight plugged into a lighting receptacle near the lathe & mill:

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        Yes, I know that the Verizon power block is unplugged - I dropped their phone service years ago but the equipment is still in place. The black power block is for a cable amplifier.

        The emergency flashlight is plugged into a 6" extension cord so I could point it at the machine area. There is a second flashlight plugged into the Dehumidifier receptacle in the overhead that illuminates the exit path to the office portion of the basement, which also has an emergency light.

        While there is light coming through the blinds on the outside entry door, most of the illumination on the machines is from the emergency flashlight, which switches on immediately it loses AC power. The nightlight won't come on until after it senses significant motion, so is only intended to provide general illumination.

        What caused the power outage? Per PPL it was "animal contact" (toasty squirrel?), and impacted 42 customers; we have underground power in my part of the development, but there is an overhead feed about a half mile away. Power was back in 95 minutes (I was impressed).
        Avid Amateur Home Shop Machinist, Electronics Enthusiast, Chef, Indoorsman. Self-Proclaimed (Dabbler? Dilettante?) Renaissance (old) Man.

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        • Originally posted by ChazC View Post
          CeneddI know, a little anal, but it takes up less space and I can (usually) find what I'm looking for. I spent the first part of lockdown organizing as I was tired of buying something and then finding that I already had two!
          Not anal, just a better use of space than I'm currently achieving on that front! If it's any consolation, I just bought a set of 1.1 to 1.9mm cobalt stub drills only to find I no only already had them but had racked them up and they were staring me in the face from behind the mill!

          Oddly I had trouble with power the other day too. Kept tripping all the clocks and I later discovered it had tripped the e-stop/NVR switch that runs the circuit for the bench - put that in after the e-stop failed in my lathe.

          RMinMN I've got a set of those somewhere but they essentially bypass the presta valve so one I got a foot pump that conveniently had both receptacles in the head, I took them off....because then they weren't compatible with the pump strapped to the bike!

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          • Originally posted by Tillie's in a bottle View Post
            Got some practice/ first attempt at tig brazing. I'm slightly more used to brazing with O/A. I'm all out of acetylene and wont get another chance to get to the local welding supplier until next Saturday. Would have gone today but the truck wouldn't start. I'm pretty sure it needs a new battery but that's a whole 'nother story...
            Anyway I'm seeing what my options are and I know Metal Butcher uses tig-brazing with good results. The goal is to machine off a damaged section of threads on a bronze shaft, build up bronze over that and then turn threads to meet the undamaged section. So far, I'm making some progress. The picture is a 1/2 brass rod I brazed on and turned on the lathe to see that my work will hold up to machining. I don't know what to do about the black soot that gets all over the adjacent area when brazing. I'm wirebrushing it off between passes. A weld rotator would be nice...
            Nice!

            I would strongly recommend against silicon bronze on brass. When I tried to braze over previous brass braze repairs, the brass just smoked and released its zinc which fouled my tungsten. So I'm actually pretty shocked you were able to do that. Might be a cause of some of your soot. Yes, do wire-brush. Lemme know if you get a headache haha.

            Try on some steel or cast iron, or bronze. Building up on bronze won't even be brazing, you'll be full on welding.
            21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
            1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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            • I don't know why it's taken me 30 years to do this. But today I made a hand tightening wheel for my 2 & 3/8 vise. I always got by with either hand tight on that smaller handle or put a piece of something nearby and handy that was quarter inch diameter through the hole in it if I needed it tighter, usually the T handle 3/16 wrench for my lathe QC. I made a brass 1/4-20 set screw so I wouldn't mar the knurling on the original handle.

              The 3/8 aluminum disc was a leftover from a job decades ago that involved hole sawing a bunch of 2.5" holes in both 1/4 & 3/8. Even after trading a large box of them to one of the metal dealers that used to be on Canal Street in Manhattan, and using them for various things over the years, I still have a box of dozens of these disks!


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              Location: Jersey City NJ USA

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              • Finished my fifth or sixth reading of Nevil Shute's Trustee From The Toolroom, a must for all model engineers. Those familiar with the British publication Model Engineer (similar to our beloved HSM) will recognize the "Miniature Mechanic" magazine that Mr. Stewart works for, both by its similar title and content format; the companion publication Model Engineers' Workshop parallels our Machinists' Workshop. TFTT was my introduction to Nevil Shute (Nevil Shute Norway) more than 50 years ago, swiftly followed by The Far Country and the rest of his writings. When my parents were downsizing I selected the copies of his books that they had, and over the years have added to these so I now have all of his novels and his autobiographical Slide Rule. I heartily recommend all of his writings.
                Avid Amateur Home Shop Machinist, Electronics Enthusiast, Chef, Indoorsman. Self-Proclaimed (Dabbler? Dilettante?) Renaissance (old) Man.

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                • Spent the morning diagnosing a faulty x axis servo amp on our VF5 at work. Pretty sure I've figured it out, using haas' troubleshooting guide, Some forum posts from PM and others, as well as swapping the x/y amps, and being able to jog both axis while disabling the bad one. The fault stays with the amp, not the axis. But have an email out to our tech to bat some ideas around and confirm my findings. Not my money, but I still don't like throwing parts at problems for no good reason. This machine has been on, and ran almost constantly the past 2 years (as have I). I finally powered it down last Thursday night before leaving for the weekend, and this is how it greeted me. I hear ya haas, I hear ya. I'm tired and wore out too lol.

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                  • I needed a taller chair, better casters.
                    I drilled out the stem caster holes, and tapped them
                    1/2-13 for bolts to mount the new casters to 3/8
                    aluminum flat stock.
                    I am having hip replacement surgery next month,
                    and the taller chair will help.
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                    • Originally posted by metalfixer View Post
                      I needed a taller chair, better casters.
                      I drilled out the stem caster holes, and tapped them
                      1/2-13 for bolts to mount the new casters to 3/8
                      aluminum flat stock.
                      I am having hip replacement surgery next month,
                      and the taller chair will help.
                      Click image for larger version

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                      Nice job on Casters&Reinforcements ,that should last a long time.Good luck with Hip Surgery!

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                      • Thanks Tundra,
                        I've had both shoulders and one knee replaced, hopefully the
                        hip will also go well.

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                        • My thoughts are with you, hope it goes well.
                          mark

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                          • Nice fix metal fixer. I'll have to remember that when my beloved office chair that fits me like an old ball glove finally breaks in that way. I'm on my 3rd set of casters, and last year finally had to break down and plate the sides. $1000 chair now lol


                            I don't want to have to break a new chair in again. I've tried, and revived this one.

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                            • The bolt holes at the center concern me as all the tension load is carried by the hub not the plates. Might I suggest a ten hole aluminum plate at the center? I suspect it will noticably stiffen the arms.

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                              • Hi Gary,
                                The aluminum plates are bolted between the ribs directly on the hub.
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