What did you do today?

[J Tiers]

It is a pontoon trailer, the pontoon is on the trailer.

Caused by backing off the end of the boat ramp and then coming forward to fast. The axles slid back on the frame as well. I slid the axles back forward but the spring bothers me.

I can see the point both ways.

Con: It's been stressed beyond yield once since it is permanently bent. If you do that again to get it straight, you probably will end up weakening it. And you likely will not get it perfect, leaving a stress point in it. The kink is not a big one.

Pro: If you leave it as-is, it has a definite stress point, because the one leaf will take all the stress right at that kink until it lays flat on the other leaves and they begin to take some. Might end up breaking at the point where it is kinked. If you bend it back so it lays against the others, then there is no special stress point there anymore.

Best idea may be to replace the leaf. Second best may be to get it back into the correct curve, if you can. Kinked springs of any type never seem to be as good as they were before they got kinked. And that one will take a lot of flexing

[lakeside53]

I'd leave it alone. No big deal as it is.

[Joel]

Is there a spring re-arching shop nearby? If so, run it by there (or maybe just email a picture) and talk to someone who deals with this sort of thing every day. The couple of times I have had springs done, it was cheap.
Google shows a shop in Wausau.

[gambler]

if that breaks while towing, you will be in trouble. replace it. (just my opinion)

[Noitoen]

It's the main support leaf, I would change it. Cheaper than an accident if it fails.

[vpt]

Google shows a shop in Wausau.

Yes, Wausau spring. Before airbags we used to take our new trucks there to get overload springs put on.


Our local Fleet farm (an everything store) carries trailer parts as well and has springs. What I worry about with just getting a new spring is my experience with replacing springs is the new ones are never exactly the same as the originals. They are either a tiny bit longer, shorter, stiffer, more arc, less arc, and such. I did think if I got a new spring I would take it apart and just replace the main leaf and reuse the rest of the pack.

I will check around today and see what new spring options I can figure out. Have to get a tail light also. :/

[Tim Clarke]

So, here's the story: If the axle slid back, you have trouble. The center bolt holds the spring leaves together, and it locates the spring on the spring pad that is welded to the axle. Only way it can move is bend or shear off the head of the centerbolt. You'll need to replace the bolt, to return the axle to it's proper place. (all wheels pointed dead ahead) The spring, I would worry about less, and probably use the BFH to regain approx. the original arch.

I have some experience, I was the maintenance manager of a fleet that had about 25 dual axle trailers, that were used for the door to door pick up of recycling. A fairly abusive vocation, 4-500 stops a day and a loaded weight well above the pair of 3500lb axles. You name the failure, I've seen it. Check those center bolts!!

By the way, check out your local auto parts, The Dorman Company supplies lost of specialty automotie hardware, they offer lots of center bolts.

[vpt]

The axles (and springs) slide on the trailer frame, not axle sliding on the spring. This happens almost yearly with out work boat trailers. Right in the landing I will loosen the u-bolts holding the springs to the frame and slide the axle back into position and on our way.

[Willy]

Tim, I think Andy said that both axles slid back on the frame so I think his center bolt would be okay, although yeah that's usually the first thing that gets sheared off. Amazing it didn't happen here but looking at Andy's photo it does indeed look like you can spot the witness marks left on the frame from the center spring hanger sliding back.

If it were me I'd take it to a spring shop and have them match up another main leaf only, nothing wrong with the rest of the spring pack and one leaf will be cheap to replace. While you've got the spring pack apart do have a good look at that center bolt though. It may be pristine but depending on how well the U-bolts and clamp did their job there is the possibility that it could have been tickled.

[vpt]

I taken some measurements and I did find a spring by Dayton that is a near perfect match but is a 3 leaf. I have to go out and measure thickness tomorrow to be sure on it. I think it may work if I just use the main spring and my 3 original "helper?" leafs. But I am picky and will make sure it is absolutely right before getting it.

There are a few spring places around me too. If the Dayton doesn't add up I will check call around.

[JRouche]

If the Dayton doesn't add up I will check call around.

Dayton will have the spring. It might be a lil cashola. JR

[Arcane]

Today I removed the broken off stub of a small bolt from the cast steel frame that holds the electric fan from a friend's Mercedes. He had both fans removed (why, I don't know) and one metric machine screw twisted off a tad below level, an 5Mx.8

I had just enough room on my BP clone mill to clamp the framework to my large angle plate and squeek it in under the tooling. I had to eyeball center it with a wiggler in an old drill chuck held in a 1/2"collet, then switch the chuck out and use a 1/2" spotting drill (for rigidity's sake) to make a small divot in the screw then swap back in the drill chuck and drill it out with a 5/32 spotting drill which is only .0091 smaller that the rap drill size for that screw. The Machine Gods were smiling on me because I managed to center it perfectly. (That will never happen again, eh.) I managed to catch the end of the thread left behind with a pick and free it enough to grab it with needle nose pliers and unravel it from the hole.

[DennisCA]

Bought crap from China. First I bought a parting tool kit, but the inserts did not fit the blade (SP200/GTN-2).

So I bought another blade from another seller but no luck here either, the inserts just fall out. So I am thinking it's the inserts fault now, but I am reluctant to order another set of 'carbide inserts. What if they are also are wrong, or what if both the blades were the ones flawed. This is very frustrating! That's what you get when dealing with china. It's a big ole game of chance.

[Cenedd]

Bought crap from China. First I bought a parting tool kit, but the inserts did not fit the blade (SP200/GTN-2).

So I bought another blade from another seller but no luck here either, the inserts just fall out. So I am thinking it's the inserts fault now, but I am reluctant to order another set of 'carbide inserts. What if they are also are wrong, or what if both the blades were the ones flawed. This is very frustrating! That's what you get when dealing with china. It's a big ole game of chance.

Not sure if it's a lot of help to you but I tried this style of parting tool and it's been fantastic. Apart from happily parting by hand or under powerfeed, it can be used as a turning tool to make slots and then widen them and actually gives a better finish than my other insert tools. There is a maximum diameter it can part though - think it's about 28mm so that's not been an issue for me.
I've certainly seen videos of people having trouble with the smaller parting inserts falling out the blade so you're probably not alone.

[DennisCA]

Yeah infact despite my bad fortunes I ordered a banggood carbied set with 12mm shanks. I have gotten the impression there is somewhat more QC going on at Banggood. I got a parting tool looking like that, haven't tried it but the insert fitted at least. I would like to get this type working though because it is narrower and can cut deeper.