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  • Originally posted by 3 Phase Lightbulb View Post
    Weld up a pressure vessel. Throw your bed pillows in there Connect up an A/C evacuation pump to the vessel. Pull a vacuum with the pump until all of the water boils out of the vessel.
    I thought about it!


    Originally posted by MrFluffy View Post
    Best way to dry them, fix the leaking roof (they are squabs from a car seat aren't they?)
    Speaking as a long term landrover owner, that has the double curse of a diy sunroof in it fitted by a previous owner. Which is actually just a household wooden window and leaks like a sieve. I should take my own advice one day but its only the rear area that gets wet :-)
    House couch cushions. My son likes to piss in his sleep....
    Andy

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    • Originally posted by vpt View Post




      How else do you get water out of foam?
      First thing I would do is squeeze as much water out of them as I could, then put them between a few layers of towels and walk on them to wick the water out. Then let them lay in the sun or put them in the dryer on fluff until dry.

      After that I'd put something on them to keep them from getting wet in the first place.

      Brian
      OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

      THINK HARDER

      BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

      MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

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      • Today I cut a couple 5/8 wide strips from some stainless sheet. Set up a guide on the bandsaw and started pushing the piece through. Very slow- then I remembered the blade broke on me yesterday and I put an old one on to finish a job- one I had been using on fiberglass, and it was dull. It made it through the aluminum ok, but very slow on the stainless. Still worked though, so I got that job done too. These strips were for adding a couple belt hooks to a small pack so I can carry water and some food tomorrow as a group of us go zip-lining. Can't carry a normal pack or even a day pack, so now I have a waist pack. Stainless strips inside, belt loops outside, several pop rivets to sandwich the materials together. Should last the day, maybe more-
        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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        • Worked on some more modified paint cups. Machined a derlin center section to glue in the paint cup to make the paint cup more like a spillmaster container


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          • Figured it was about time to put handles on a bunch of files. The handles were made from oak and poplar broom stick handles so I only had to turn the ferrule end. Ferrules are cut from brass, stainless & copper tube.



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            • Knurled a few hundred pieces of D2 material, in three diameters. Was actually a lot easier than I expected it to be. Okay, that's an embellishment. It was shockingly easier than I expected it to be. Nary a hiccup and perfectly formed pyramids. Shop made tool. $30 and 1 hour of time. Maybe $35 if one counts the lump of material from the shelf.

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              • Bought myself a cheap 45mm diestock holder for a cheap G1/2 tap I've got that's bigger than any of the holders I have....obviously. Naturally, I found - just after I'd hit 'buy' - that I didn't actually need it....but that's a different story. It turned up this morning and it's Chinese-made, of course, but it seems to be quite good. No awful stink of oil that's seen a good 100,000 miles round the factory supervisor's car first. No oil apparent at all to be honest....and yet, no rust. Set screws have a Pozi head, aren't made of condensed schmoo and a decent looking cone point on 'em too. Could it be that European manufacturers are claiming 'made in China' for the cheap sale but failing to imitate the low quality sufficiently?!
                Anyway, thought you guys may appreciate the "English" on the box. Don't forget, "Wring the hand"!

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                • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
                  Bought myself a cheap 45mm diestock holder for a cheap G1/2 tap I've got that's bigger than any of the holders I have....obviously.
                  Is there some secret reason why you bought a dieholder for a tap? Is the next project a 45mm round slug with a square hold filed in it?

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                  • The knurling pics.







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                    • And yesterday's fun.








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                      • Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
                        Is there some secret reason why you bought a dieholder for a tap? Is the next project a 45mm round slug with a square hold filed in it?
                        Yes, it's because I'm secretly incompetent. Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!
                        I may get round to making some of Abom79's tap holders (round stock, through-bore sized for tap shaft and then slotted across the top to make a square-ish hole that holds the tap's square) but this was for a G1/2 die. In the end, entirely by chance, I discovered that the Frankenstein thread I cobbled together (something like an undersized M21x2) was a close enough match to G1/2 that it engaged for three threads; which was enough to retain the collar and seat it against the flat washer. Certainly good enough for connecting a hose connection onto a child's slide!

                        Zahnrad: Very nice.

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                        • this has taken a lot longer than I expected, but I finally finished a set of hub adapters for a new-to-me road bike wheelset I got off eBay. I needed a new rear wheel for my commuter and wanted the same hub that I have on my mountainbike, a DTSwiss 350 - super reliable, easy to service, lasts forever. For less than a new rear hub I got a complete wheelset. The only downside was that they came with hub adapters for a through-axle frame and fork, whereas my bike is a quick release frameset. So, I made new adapters.

                          used a 18" or so long piece of 1 1/2" alu from my collection, doing all but the last adapter using a steady rest to minimise waste. Probably the most I've used the steady to be honest, but it worked well.

                          one of the rear adapters, with the o-ring groove cut


                          cutting the 1/2-20 threads for the front two piece axle


                          other half screws on nicely


                          all the internal (to the hub) machining is done, plus the left over piece of stock

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                          • the front axle pieces were finished in the 4 jaw and the rear pieces were mounted on a machined in place arbor. Made grip rings for each adapter out of stainless, using a dremel and pointed carbide burr in the tool post to cut the serrations. They're a bit $hitty if you look closely, but no one will see them when they're on the bike.


                            first time anodising, woohoo! I've had the gear for several years but never set it up as we were always about to move. No excuse now. Anodising tank is on the left, dye tank is on the right, both with bubble rings fed by an aquarium aerator. You can see the wheels in the background.


                            test piece, came out brown..


                            rear adapters also came out brown, but more bronze like. I've heard other people getting the same result with Rit black dye, so some black dye from Caswell is on the shopping list. Grip rings pressed on.

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                            • solving another problem. DT Swiss hubs come with alu freehubs that can get chewed up by the cassette. Given the torque my bike and my legs can put out I wanted to head this off.

                              Cut a 5/64 groove in the freehub using a 2fl then a ball end mill.


                              JB welded in a piece of 5/64 stainless wire (out of a broken toilet valve, of all things), then milled it flush and square. Made the tooth (spline?) 0.1mm wider than original so that it takes the brunt of the force from the cassette.


                              Also made a recess in the back of the cassette (11spd) so that it fits on the 10spd hub

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                              • Rear



                                Front



                                Spent a few hours tensioning and truing the wheels. The back wheel fit so well that I didn't even need to adjust the disk brake caliper, the front required a little fiddling. Went for a spin round the neighbourhood and it all feels nice'n'tight. We'll see how well they hold up over the coming miles.

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