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  • danlb
    replied
    You leave my inch obsession alone! It's mine. All mine! I've spent 50 years forgetting and relearning that I can trade 25.4 of those itty bitty metric things for a single inch, so I've worked for that obsession. Besides, at 25.4 to 1 ratio, obviously an inch is worth more.

    But back on topic.... I melted the plastic part that I was trying to resize last night. I got distracted and set the heat gun to high as I pre-heated the part, then forced the die into it and it collapsed. Oh well. It was broken before I started, right?

    I then wasted most of this morning fine tuning my web server so that it would block the botnets as soon as a hacker or bot tried to access certain files. I blocked 261 addresses and address ranges in 48 hours. The number of probes dropped from a high of 4500 a day to only 1 in the last 4 hours. And that host is now automatically blocked too. Eventually I will shut down that web server, but I occasionally use it for trouble shooting and prototyping.

    Dan

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  • Cenedd
    replied
    I'm only playing danlb I could start on your obsession with inches if you'd prefer.....apart from the fact we still use miles and mph and drink beer in pints - although that's because the metric "equivalent" is smaller and everyone knows they'd charge the same. And it'd be slightly hypocritical when I've just ordered a chunk of oak that's 30×2.5×10" and prefer inch stock as it's often cheaper than 25mm stock and slightly oversized so will clean up to 25mm. Found an ER32 collet that'll take an inch too.....and seems to be very well made too (wrt runout).

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  • nickel-city-fab
    replied
    To back up what Dan said, my air compressor is 2HP wired for 110v. It does just fine on any outlet I use, BUT I always plug it directly in, never an extension cord. I can get away with it because it starts unloaded, by the time the motor is up to speed the load comes on and the heavy current draw has already happened. FWIW thats a "real" compressor form the 1970's with belt drive and oil splash lube at slow RPM's -- the motor is at 3600 RPM's but the pump is at 750 RPM.

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  • danlb
    replied
    Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

    Surely the problem is that you're feeding it 110V. That maxes out a 13 amp circuit at something around 1200W. If you move to a manlier voltage you'd get twice that. This is, of course, where people now get to lord their three phase over me

    No no no no no. I don't need more volts. It's only 3/4 HP. It's on a 20 amp circuit. It should work fine. I just forgot that the extension cord is 12 gauge (good for 20 amps) with a 13 amp breaker. The de-rating is needed because the cord is wrapped around a reel several layers deep and heat builds up within it. My previous drop down reel melted inside when I overloaded it with a 20 amp load.

    Dan

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  • RB211
    replied
    Originally posted by challenger View Post
    Caught a bunch of striped bass and 2 reds. Plus a flounder and a LMB. Click image for larger version

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    Where do you fish that you can catch both Stripers and Reds?

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  • swatkins
    replied
    I started making the Jib Crane for use over my 20 inch Axelson... Really, really clever design for the swivel part... I wish I could say I came up with it...... I love using my tools to make parts for the tools

    Jib Crane

    Here is how I make them,

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  • Cenedd
    replied
    Originally posted by swatkins View Post
    Can't trust anyone these days.... That is a low down dirty trick....
    Seems to be. It's worth being aware of and to check anything you might buy. Thing is, it's a perfectly good beginner's stick welder. It adds another tool to my arsenal at a price and size that I can handle. Had they quoted real figures and kept it with a 13 Amp max, I'd still have bought it. It's only that they all start quoting silly amperages that it just isn't going to actually do and once they've up'd the ante, they all have to do it to compete. Same with the lathe tools that claim to be 50HRC. They clearly aren't (not even the case) as I can shorten them with a hacksaw and file them....but they're plenty good enough for the jobs I put them to. Don't think I'm just having a go at import stuff though, it's the same with EU and US manufacturers anywhere they think they can get away with it - just take cordless tool battery voltages as an example!

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  • swatkins
    replied
    Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

    You could always do what the chinese manufacturers of my stick welder did when 13A wasn't really enough for their (claimed) 200A box. The fuse is soldered into the plug....because it has a thicker wire hidden underneath it! ...or I should say "used to have"!
    Can't trust anyone these days.... That is a low down dirty trick....

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  • Cenedd
    replied
    Originally posted by danlb View Post
    P.P.S. This is not a problem with the lathe. It's a problem with using a retractable spool drop cord rated at only 13 amps. The correct fix is to install more dedicated drops for the lathe, bandsaw, belt sander and other occasional use machines.
    Surely the problem is that you're feeding it 110V. That maxes out a 13 amp circuit at something around 1200W. If you move to a manlier voltage you'd get twice that. This is, of course, where people now get to lord their three phase over me
    You could always do what the chinese manufacturers of my stick welder did when 13A wasn't really enough for their (claimed) 200A box. The fuse is soldered into the plug....because it has a thicker wire hidden underneath it! ...or I should say "used to have"!

    Leave a comment:


  • PStechPaul
    replied
    I almost always release belt tension before powering on, but I think it's not necessary in the low speed settings where I usually use it. I think it's more an issue with breaking the skinny little belt, which HAS happened to me. But I think this happened when trying to use a slitting saw.

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    Click image for larger version

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  • danlb
    replied
    I was fixing a "foaming hand soap" pump today. It's a great idea which will stretch 1 oz of dish soap into 12 ounces and make it last a month. But something either caused the plunger's seal to swell or the pump casing, which does double duty as the cylinder, to shrink. It got to the point where the plunger would not return to it's normal position.

    I measured the ID of the casing at 1.159 inches and the plunger seal to 1.162. Since the seal is cast plastic that is integrated into the plunger body it has nowhere to compress to. My solution is to make a die from aluminum that is 1.161 and warm the casing as I force the die into it. If I'm lucky, it won't get permanently stuck.

    I decided to use my HF 9x20 lathe to cut the die since the lathe was set up and had my 6 inch set tru chuck on it already. I changed the belt to 620 RPM (pully b to c, groove 3) and set up everything to reduce the diameter of a 1.125 bar to my desired size. I turned on the lathe and the chuck spun for less than a second, and then the lathe went dead. I checked all the fuses, and eventually found the 13 amp circuit breaker on my extension cord was popped. I reset it several times and repeated the experience. Could I actually be pulling more than 13 amps now? It's worked for years.

    I grabbed my in line ammeter (actually a killawatt plug in energy monitor) and checked the draw. I was pulling 19 amps for over a second, then the breaker was popping. It's only supposed to draw 10 amps or so. Was it bad bearings? I pulled off the belt and rotated the chuck by hand. No problem. I applied power without the belt. No problem. I looked at the belt again and it hit me. The chuck is heavy, a lot of mass. It takes a short time to get up to speed. I looked again at the pulleys and realized that I'd blown it. I wanted BC3 and used instead AC3 for 2000 RPM. This mistake is common for me because the chart shows a picture (from top to bottom) of the motor, drive pulley (a) ,jackshaft (b), and chuck pulley (c), In reality the motor is in the back on the bottom and the chuck is at the top in and closest to the operator.

    So the problem was that the 2000 rpm setting was geared up and took longer to spin up to the speed where the start circuit cuts out. The fix was to use the "belt tension" handle to turn it on while the belt was slack, then engage the belt to start the spindle spinning. Once the motor was up to speed it was able to handle the extra load with no problems.

    Lesson learned.

    Dan
    P.S. The user manual says to disengage the belt before starting / stopping the lathe to avoid belt breakage. I've never used it that way because that made no sense.
    P.P.S. This is not a problem with the lathe. It's a problem with using a retractable spool drop cord rated at only 13 amps. The correct fix is to install more dedicated drops for the lathe, bandsaw, belt sander and other occasional use machines.
    Last edited by danlb; Yesterday, 11:03 PM.

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  • swatkins
    replied
    I unboxed a Primeweld Cut 60



    Then my friend Don and I put it to work cutting some C Channel and I beam.. THe C channel is for the table frame of the CNC MechMate I'm trying to finish up... The I beam is for two projects. One is a gantry crane for my Axelson lathe and the other 14 foot piece is for a crane I'm building to raise up items to my second floor of the shop..

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  • Tungsten dipper
    replied
    Thanks for the cat pics!!

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  • Stepside
    replied
    Metal Butcher
    I bought a brand new Roll-In like yours 25 years ago. Some things to check out. 1) On mine the back and front of the table is machined. The saw cuts exactly 90 degrees to the machined edge making it handy to set-up with fixtures. 2) I drilled and tapped a series of 3/8-16 holes in the top to aid in fastening different fixtures. The 3/8-16 matches the clamping kit for my ProLight Mill giving even more ways to hold parts. 4) It is mounted on a frame with 4 inch diameter cast iron wheels/casters. This lifts it 8 inches and makes the table at a more useable height. 5) Cut a doorway in the side of the shop. The roller at the bottom of the door is the same height as the saw table. This makes it easy to cut 20 foot lengths of material to size.

    DO NOT use a cutting oil as it will cause the tire to expand and come off the wheel!!!

    All and all a handy machine and the current price new is $5000.00 .

    Pete

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  • DennisCA
    replied
    Picked the black & red currants of the bushes and froze them, also got some bilberries, one of our boys picked raspberries and said we have to save them for his birthday cake. No gooseberries this year either, they don' t seem to be thriving. Very few american blue berries so far, they donät seem have taken to this spot either.

    Also cats doing cat stuff





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