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Simple taper turning.

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    Good idea that, I have a protractor with a bent ruler section, might make a good addition to the top slide.
    This is my newly aquired ML4, the smallest machine I've worked on.
    And a picture of the compound slide as I said.


    My scrap Ml4 has graduated scales on the compound slide, as soon as I can work out how to get them off I'll fit them too this.
    I hope this doesnt contradict forum rules but heres the other myford ML4, if anyone is interested in any parts off it, or the whole thing pm me.
    Last edited by dr pepper; 03-30-2010, 12:18 PM.

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  • Lew Hartswick
    replied
    Turn it to "an advantage" make the scale on the cross slide. Just
    another interestiing job to do. :-)
    ...lew...

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    No I didnt know about that, only problem is its yahoo, never liked them, still I joined and tried, lets ee what happens.

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  • willmac
    replied
    Always good to know where to find an electronics expert - not my area.

    You are probably aware of this group:



    Sometimes some useful information.

    You can use a ball end centre drill - this will produce a flared centre. You may not need one however. A large centre drill and a ball bearing retained with a bit of grease while you set the work up is quite feasible.

    If you have a boring head (small cheap Chinese is fine) you can use this to dial in the tailstock offset you need without disturbing the tailstock. If you do this you need to ensure that you keep the boring head slide horizontal.

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    Tis a small world innit, if you need anything electrical or electronic sorting, then message me, thats my area.
    This is certainly one of the better forums, some of the others I tried are quiet, do you happen to know any myford groups Bill?, I've been looking.
    Been looking for ball ended centre drills, I dont have any, off to Rdg again.
    Last edited by dr pepper; 03-29-2010, 05:18 PM.

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  • Peter.
    replied
    Originally posted by dr pepper
    I'll have to make do with marker blue, but I'll do that once in the ball park.
    I dont think total accuracy is called for here, the pulley is ally and its pulled up by a 3/8 nut so it'll fit over the taper if its close.

    Oh yeah have a look at this alistair, I found the thread you were talking about by John Stevenson, follow the link and its thread response No.4, I sort of remember something like this in class at college, putting a long piece of square toolstock in the toolpost and taking advantage of using the length of the square stock to match the taper of a bit/reamer in the chuck the wrong way around, crafty, If I could get the compressor pump in the lathe I'd do it.



    Post 5 is also quite interesting, need a dti but still very practical, I use the idea about checking the centre height of the cutter on general jobs, it works well with a 6" rule.
    That's pretty cool!

    As a variation you could set the compound parallel and put the morse taper in the holder then set the bar you are tuning between centres and off-set the tailstock to match the angle of the taper you're holding. That way you could do your machining with the sliding feed for a better finish.

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  • willmac
    replied
    Dr Pepper -

    Nice lathe. I think I saw a restoration write up on an ML4 a little while back - might be worth looking around the various groups.

    I am in Cabus, probably less than a mile from you. Small world.

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    I'll have to make do with marker blue, but I'll do that once in the ball park.
    I dont think total accuracy is called for here, the pulley is ally and its pulled up by a 3/8 nut so it'll fit over the taper if its close.

    Oh yeah have a look at this alistair, I found the thread you were talking about by John Stevenson, follow the link and its thread response No.4, I sort of remember something like this in class at college, putting a long piece of square toolstock in the toolpost and taking advantage of using the length of the square stock to match the taper of a bit/reamer in the chuck the wrong way around, crafty, If I could get the compressor pump in the lathe I'd do it.



    Post 5 is also quite interesting, need a dti but still very practical, I use the idea about checking the centre height of the cutter on general jobs, it works well with a 6" rule.
    Last edited by dr pepper; 03-29-2010, 04:32 PM.

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  • Alistair Hosie
    replied
    I seem to remember John Stevenson had a really easy way of doing morse tapers using a morse taper to set up.I wish I could remember it.Alistair

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  • MichaelP
    replied
    Originally posted by dr pepper
    its an internal taper bore not an outside shaft taper.
    In this case follow Oldtiffie's advice. But I'm sure you realize that the very best approach will be to dial the shaft's taper directly and set the compound angle accordingly.
    Last edited by MichaelP; 03-29-2010, 03:41 PM.

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  • Black_Moons
    replied
    You might be able to mount the entire motor in the chuck and dial it in that way (TDI on compound, move compound back and forth and rotate untill TDI stops moving when you move the compound)

    Or, once you get it good by eye/protractor/etc (and leave a good chunk of material left) you can use prussion blue dye to 'spot' the fit and see if the angle is too much or too little, then take another pass.

    (Basicly just a blue dye that does NOT dry and can be spread very thin and even and transfers well, Its actualy one of the MOST precise ways of mating parts, even if it is a little trial and error, also used in the scraping of tables and ways to the highest precision)

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    This is like mine, only mine has a guard over the change wheels, I like the machine, the build quality is what you'd expect from myford, most of the parts are available, and a lot are compatible with the super 7.

    Right now I'm in Garstang sat at my bench in work, whereabouts are you then, theres a possibility we've met, did you list an atlas 5 a while back?
    Last edited by dr pepper; 03-29-2010, 03:10 PM.

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  • willmac
    replied
    ML4 would explain it - an early lathe indeed!

    Also in Lancashire - where are you?

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  • Dragons_fire
    replied
    unless i read it wrong, i dont think turning between centers will help much since you want to do a tapered bore im something that is probably fairly short compared to the diameter. i think i would use the protractor, to do it.

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  • dr pepper
    replied
    Thanks for all the replys and piccies.
    Yep, I'm obviously not as experienced as I thought.
    I like the offset turning idea, I now understand the concept, and I do have a face/catch plate and drive dogs for my myford, however I think I didnt explain too well, I want to bore a pulley, so its an internal taper bore not an outside shaft taper.
    I like the idea about taking off the tool post and removing the chuck jaws and using the bevel, thanks for that, I think thats the way to go for my application, I'll work out the angle with triganometry from micing the shaft.

    I got this machine recently and when I tried to use the outside jaws for the 3 jaw chuck I found they are for a different series chuck, ah well I spose I'll find other things like this, I'll use the 4 jaw for this job as its jaws reverse.
    As for my machine having an angle guage, it doesnt look as though its ever had one, its a less common ML4, the ML7 and super 7 probably do have angle displays as standard.
    I'll put up a photo tomoz, I'm working right now.

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