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  • Drll bit sharpening question...people w/out drill bits need not read.

    I have a Drill Doctor and I know how to use it

    I have a set of 118 degree drill bits. After reading a thread on the topic a week or so ago I wanted to sharpen one to 135 degrees and split the point... all of which I know how to do on the Drill Doctor.

    My question is this, after meeting with meeting with no success I'm suspecting the web on a store bought 135 might be thinner then on a 118 bit. Is that right? Sharpening a 118 to 135 leaves a web to wide to split in my opinion? Anyone have experience with this?
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    Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

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  • #2
    Sorry can't help because I don't have any drill bits all mine are in one piece.
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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    • #3
      Originally posted by John Stevenson
      Sorry can't help because I don't have any drill bits all mine are in one piece.

      You got brown eyes?
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      Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

      It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

      Comment


      • #4
        Dunno, can't see them .
        .

        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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        • #5
          Originally posted by John Stevenson
          Dunno, can't see them .
          THe correct answer is: just the one
          Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

          Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
          Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
          Monarch 10EE 1942

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          • #6
            YOD:_ Obviously Your question is too trivial to rate an answer! It seems to me that somewhere in China factory #19B, there are a bunch ogf machines fed on bar stock, (rod stock?) that spit out different sizes of spiral-grooved little rods. These then go to the pointing machines for either a 118* or 135* point. If that is how drills are actually made, it makes no sense to have differing web thickness. Perhaps for different MAKES, or DESIGNS, but I dont think that is what you meant.
            Just my thoughts after rolling around on the floor over all that INCREDIBLE wit! Duffy
            Duffy, Gatineau, Quebec

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            • #7
              The web thickens the further down you go. On most drill bits. There were some early deep fluke drill bits that were pretty consistant most of the way down.
              If your drill bits are from different manufacturers there will be a difference.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Your Old Dog
                I have a Drill Doctor and I know how to use it

                I have a set of 118 degree drill bits. After reading a thread on the topic a week or so ago I wanted to sharpen one to 135 degrees and split the point... all of which I know how to do on the Drill Doctor.

                My question is this, after meeting with meeting with no success I'm suspecting the web on a store bought 135 might be thinner then on a 118 bit. Is that right? Sharpening a 118 to 135 leaves a web to wide to split in my opinion? Anyone have experience with this?
                I have reground drills that were originally 118 degrees to 135 degrees more to see if I could do it with a "pit bull" type drill sharpener as shown here on gadgetbuilders web page:
                http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html (scroll down towards the bottom of the web page)

                You can thin the web of a drill bit by hand if the drill is large enough like James Harvey shows on page 154 of his book Machine Shop Trade Secrets. I tried this with a ~ 1/2" drill bit and I was fairly successful getting it right. I just eyeballed the angle and tried to get the same amount ground off each side. Gadgetbuilder discusses the Honedrill fixture which can be used to thin the web of smaller drill bits. I have not built one of these fixtures, but I can see how it would be useful.

                I sharpen drill bits using the above mentioned pit bull drill sharpener on a surface grinder using a cup wheel.
                Last edited by sidneyt; 04-11-2010, 10:17 AM.

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                • #9
                  I have always seen it the other way around. 135* having a thicker web with them needing to be split-point. Going from 118* to 135* I'm not sure on the geometry.

                  I personally put split-points on rather than just web thinning. Easy to do freehand with a well dressed stone.

                  By the way, what Sir John is refering to is that in the trades they are called drills and the handheld things they go in are drill motors. Lots of different trades, apparently both sides of the pond.
                  Jon Bohlander
                  My PM Blog

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                  • #10
                    maybe your problem is the inherent suckiness of the Drill Doctor......

                    I have one (headed for recycling) and I know how to use it, but it never did do a good split point, it is apparently seriously misaligned and leaves a square area around the point on the drill for any smaller drills under about 0.312".....

                    it has also got other problems, like requiring the drills to be hand=alined by trial and error until, they sharpen with positive relief, since using the alinement tool in the DD they come out with reverse relief if under around 0.312".

                    Worked really well for about 50 drills, has sucked bigtime ever since, but wheel is NOT worn. The drill tip can move around at least 0.125 inch, since the collets are that loose in the tube....which just can't be right or good.
                    1601

                    Keep eye on ball.
                    Hashim Khan

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                    • #11
                      The best time a machinist can spend IMHO is learning how to sharpen a drill bit freehand. I worked for several years in a shop where we had machines for sharpening everything from a #60 thru a 3" diameter drill. They were way across the shop from me, but the 12" disc sander was right there. It took me about an hour to get the feel for it and I have been sharpening by hand ever since. It's a good thing I learned when I did too. Now that I am no longer working for a machine shop I have to sharpen all my own drills.

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                      • #12
                        DISC sander works

                        A belt may not, because it tends to round over the edge. So if you have a combo unit, use the disc side
                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by J Tiers
                          I have one (headed for recycling) and I know how to use it, but it never did do a good split point, it is apparently seriously misaligned and leaves a square area around the point on the drill for any smaller drills under about 0.312"....
                          People either love or hate the Drill Doctor

                          I have the 750x, and it works great, but the point splitter does suck. It seems like it goes too deep:



                          Compare my picture to the Drill Doctor video (that comes with the unit). I'm doing something wrong:

                          Last edited by lazlo; 04-11-2010, 12:12 PM.
                          "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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                          • #14
                            Well, the collet is filthy............might that be a problem???

                            The problem with the point splitter, apart from alignment, is that there is no "stop".... you can go too far easily and quickly. or at least you could on mine.
                            1601

                            Keep eye on ball.
                            Hashim Khan

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                            • #15
                              Learn to do sharpening and split point freehand and your problem is solved.
                              It's only ink and paper

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