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Now here's a home made flycutter!

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  • Now here's a home made flycutter!

    I think it's pretty cool but would likely choke my rUNG fOO mill
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  • #2
    Nice, I saw that one quite some time ago. Looks like too much trouble to me. Basically more of a HUGE face mill with bits instead of inserts. I'll be it's a mutha to setup all 6-12 points at the same height. But I really liked the mount, assuming you mount it once and leave it for a while.

    I recently had similar needs in that I needed to face a 9"+ plate "perfectly" flat with a good finish. Borrowed a fly cutter barely able to do the job with regard to swing, but it chattered something terrible, and nothing I tried would stop it (and I tried a lot of different things). So I made my own. The one shown below has about 10" long. After squaring the bar, all remaining work was done in one (careful) setup using a 12" 4 jaw chuck. This guarantees maximum concentricity and balance. There are 2 cutters, but only one in use at a time; the other being retracted but left in place for balance. Once bit has lead angle, the other can work to a corner if required. The face is recessed around the 7/8" stub so that the collet face is not encountered, and the body of the cutter pulls up on the nose of the spindle for maximum rigidity. I've used it a couple of times now, and it works better than I had ever hoped...

    (click for larger)
    Master Floor Sweeper


    • #3
      That's crazy YOD,,,
      The trouble with guys who put risers on their milling machine is that then they end up using them
      Even though he's stacking stuff on top of stuff he still has the audacity to drop the quill down half way! Its like he's trying to give lessons on how to lose rigidity...

      Not impressed with the heim joint end turnbuckles either, This entire set up reeks of instability and in fact the only thing saving this guys butt is the fact that his "fly cutter" is more like what Bad dog said - a large face mill,
      still -- light cuts should be implemented....

      The thing about cylinder head milling is most heads now actually use the valve cover area as the adjacent surface - so you either block it up or if there's no obstructions then just place directly on the mills table...


      • #4

        That thing scares me just looking at the thumbnail. If it ever comes out of the collet I hope you are standing behind some armor plate.
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        • #5
          I would hate to see it get loose. But I don't think it's any worse than any other largish fly cutter, or any other general mill tooling for that matter. It has a lot of mass, and so a lot of stored energy, but it runs very smoothly and with no drama at all. I have considered dropping the stub to 3/4 to get a bit more meat in the collet itself, but that's about it.

          So let me ask, what is the failure mode that would concern you? Other than massive operator error (like not tightening the draw bar), or catastrophic failure (broken draw bar or collet?) how would it get loose? As with all tooling, tend to cringe when it first spins up. And with fly cutters I always worry about digging in and ejecting one of the cutters, but again, I don't think this is any worse than any other. It's also intended only for light finishing cuts. Something around 0.005 is the most I'm likely to use it for. Being finishing cuts using carbide, SFPM is high, but even then we're only talking 280 to 320 rpm or so.
          Master Floor Sweeper


          • #6
            The guy is obviously a shade tree type or he would know better than to grind iron with a diamond wheel. Then again there are purpose built machines for head work that are a snap to set up and do a fine job with a tenth of the effort.