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  • fusion welder

    I would like to make a fusion welder for a project. The metal would be 1018 cold roll 1/8" with multiple joints. I already have a mig that I use but I want to make a number of these things and this might be a better way to go. If I can find a way to make one without going broke in the process.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

  • #2
    I assume you're welding these end to end to construct a really long rod?

    Or are you welding angled joints?

    - Bart
    Bart Smaalders
    http://smaalders.net/barts

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    • #3
      "Flash"?

      Is this "fusion welder" similar to a resistance welder as used to "flash" weld rail-way rails and/or band-saw blades?

      Hobart and other welder manufacturers have some pretty good "help" and "project" files that may assist.

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      • #4
        Same OP/post as on Home Shop Welding forum?

        Isn't the OP here the same as that on the "Home Shop Welding" forum here?

        http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=41412

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        • #5
          Yeah, and he made even less sense there.

          All true welds fuse pieces together (Brazing is not welding).

          Mig or tig is the only cost effective way to do what you want. There are other processes like friction stir and resistance seam welders but these are all high dollar toys.

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          • #6
            Iv allways wanted a little spot welder for welding tiny rods togethor.. Like you find inside a toaster. (all the electrics in a toaster to the elements are rods welded togethor supported by ceramic or similar)

            But thats just random tool want #3425
            Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by macona
              Yeah, and he made even less sense there.

              All true welds fuse pieces together (Brazing is not welding).

              Mig or tig is the only cost effective way to do what you want. There are other processes like friction stir and resistance seam welders but these are all high dollar toys.
              Thanks for your input. Especially about sense. But regardless of my opinion of what your opinion is a Tig/Mig is not the fast or easiest or most cost effective. Why do you think spot welders were invented? But I found what I wanted, plans to turn an old arc welder and some copper plate into a welder where I just drop the pieces in, tighten the clamps, turn on the electricity and all the parts are welded. Over simplification but in essence correct.

              Thank you for your input.

              By the way in a welder's training book I picked up has different definitions for "fuse" and "weld".
              Last edited by gfabs001; 05-11-2010, 09:08 PM.

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              • #8
                I am guessing the book is talking about wether a filler rod or not.

                I would love to see these plans.

                What you are proposing may work for a very short joint of thin metal, like a bandsaw blade welder, but a 9" long joint in 1/8" steel in one go is going to take more power than you realize. Commercial seam welding is done one of three ways (In general) Hot Wire Feed (MIG, MAG, Sub Arc) Cold Wire Feed (Tig, resistance (rolling seam welders), and the new kid on the block, Friction Stir Welding. There are instances of other processes like Plasma welding and laser welding but they are so rare they are not worth more than a mention here.

                Bang for the buck for seam welding would be either mig or tig on a tractor. Tig if you can get away with a pure fusion weld otherwise mig.

                You might be able to try friction stir if you have a have a heavy enough milling machine. A lot of initial research was A BP might cut it but I would want something the size of a series II machine.

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