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Sanding Belt Adhesive

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  • Sanding Belt Adhesive

    Given all of the experience here I'm sure someone else must have come up agains the problem I currently have. Several years ago I bought several sanding belts for my 4 X 24 belt sander. I don't use this tool very often but when I do I despise running out to purchase a sanding belt, especially in the middle of a job.

    So, here's the problem, it seems all the belts I've had in their original boxes in air conditioned storage, in my home come apart as soon as I install them and start the machine. They separate at the factory joint. Apparently whatever adhesive method the factory uses degrades with time. Some belts have a very thin plastic blue colored "tape" on the back side and others are joined with an overlap.

    Any suggestions as to what adhesive to use to re-glue these belts would be appreciated. Super glue doesn't work, already tried that. They are too expensive to throw away and even if I just replaced them the new ones would do the same eventually.

    Thanks for your suggestions!

  • #2
    I'd give contact cement a try, or if you can find it, barge cement.



    • #3
      I think that the blue scrim is kevlar, It was introduce so that the belts can be installed in either direction, and replaced a lap-seam. I would try urethane, (Gorilla Glue is one brand.) The abrasive sales people advise against long term buying. They argue that the adhesive that holds the abrasive gets brittle over time, causing early failure, never mind the seam. Dont really know, just passing on what I was told. I have MANY old belts, and they seem to work just fine. Duffy
      Duffy, Gatineau, Quebec


      • #4
        You may have to remove that "plastic" strip and use a substitute. I've found that smooth plastic makes for a lousy bond on common adhesives.

        I have successfully used Tyvek, a la the stuff Priority Mail envelopes are made of, and a good 2-part epoxy. Some say the "Plastic Mender" version is a little more flexible, but whatever you use for an adhesive, the Tyvek allows it to soak in, giving a good bond.


        • #5
          I've tried this many times ,gorrila glue does not work I tried it with leather at the back just tore apart maybe it was the leather. If you get a good glue please let me know as I bought a pile of belts which just need to be shortened by a few inches or so and seems a shame to waste them. I will try with pva but I won't hold my breath for a good result.keep at it something must work.I wonder if gorrila tape would work but I doubt it.Alistair
          Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


          • #6
            I have the same problem with the belts for my 100mm hand-held belt sander. Gorilla Glue would be useless - it's nowhere near flexible enough. My only solution is to buy the belts when I need them - though even that's no guarrantee, as most people use smaller sanders with smaller belts, so the 100mm ones have often been in stock in the store for too long. And of course the manufacturers never put a "Use By" date on them.


            • #7
              I wonder if keeping them in a moist envorment might help?

              I don't have problems with my belts falling apart, except for the odd grit falling out first time I use a course belt.

              I believe 3M makes a belt splice tape for DIY cut to length belts, also usable for repairing belts.

              The hard part is getting the splice aligned perfictly so the belt tracks the same as all your other belts. Of course, you could just adjust tracking a little on a per belt basis..
              Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.


              • #8
                The following was posted on the Practical Machinist website:

                "I've made more of 'em than I can count, and I'm still in the research stage. My method duplicates the store bought version. If you'll notice their joint, it is two matching 45؛ angles with about a 2" strip of plastic tape glued across the two ends. This method seems to work well, but the key is, of course, that plastic tape. I'm using strapping tape, the kind that is used for shipping, that has that cloth/fiberglass strands embedded in it. I would prefer something else, but I haven't found it yet.

                I fully coat the back side of the two ends with two part epoxy. I happen to be using Devcon, but I'm sure any type will do as long as it is not the five-minute variety. For some reason the quicker it sets up, the less the strength. Get the 8 to 12 hour version. Then place the tape over the joint. Put wax paper on both sides and using two pieces of flat wood, C-clamp everything together.

                On my first trial runs, I found that if I left the belt under tension in the machine, over time the glued joint would begin to slip apart. The culprit turned out to be the tape adhesive. It apparently does not get along too well with the epoxy. So far the answer is to clean as much adhesive off of the tape as possible with acetone. You're not going to be using it anyway, as the epoxy is the bonding agent.

                So far I'm having success with as large as 1 1/2" emery cloth that you get at Harbor Freight. That stuff is about as stiff and cheap as you can get, and it is still holding."

                Some other adhesives to consider are 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (apply it like contact cement), Goop adhesives or hot melt glue.


                • #9
                  All belted up

                  Abrasive belts and discs are "consumable/s" and this problem is pretty well known. On that basis, I expect the belts to fail after a reasonable time - 3>6 months. I keep one and if it fails I go and buy as many as I think I'll need for the job. If I under-estimate the number I need, I go and buy some more. If I buy too many, I put them away until I need them and if one fail, I'm "in front" but if I can get enough out of them to keep me going until I can get to the store, I do it - and then buy more as required.

                  The last thing I want or need is of a belt or a disc is for it to "give way" while I am using it.

                  The store where I buy mine is about 50 kilometers from home but its worth it as they only cater to the "trade" and their stock turn-over and re-stocking rates are pretty high so the chances of a "dud" are pretty slim. I try to work it in with anything else I need while I am there - but it doesn't always work out that well. Our larger "Tool Stores" are not bad in that regard either - for those sorts of "consumable" items.

                  Abrasive discs and belts are just as "consumable" as welding rods and fluxes etc - drills, tool-bits, TC inserts, end-milling cutters, grinding wheels and discs etc. etc. as all are "written off" and classified as "to be replaced".


                  • #10
                    Just spit-balling here, but why wouldn't Elmers White glue work? It is flexible in thin section.
                    Paul A.
                    SE Texas

                    Make it fit.
                    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Paul Alciatore
                      Just spit-balling here, but why wouldn't Elmers White glue work? It is flexible in thin section.
                      White glue is very versatile and becomes even more so when reinforced with a fabric made with natural fibres, white glue and strips of blue denim is expecially good.


                      • #12
                        Thank you for your input so far, lots of new and good ideas to try. When I get some time I'll try a few, one by one and see what works. There has to be a method that will work but I may have to be as persistent as Edison to find it. When I do I'll get back to you. Thanks again!


                        • #13
                          The proper glue is a phenolic based glue similar to the binder used in non vitrified grinding wheels. The enemy of all the glues is the temperature produced by the friction of the process. Phenolic glues are able to withstand temperature above the char point of wood.

                          These are commonly known as Novolak resin glues.

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                          • #14
                            what is the over the counter name for novolac?Alistair
                            Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease