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Strength of 2x12 lumber as a ramp

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  • #16

    Tow Truck Would Be The Cats Meeeeow


    • #17
      Originally posted by Evan
      What type of wood?

      It makes a very big difference. Fir is much stronger than pine and spruce is the best.
      With the possible exception of balsa wood, I wouldn't worry about using any of the three mentioned given they will rest on steps that are supported from underneath.
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      Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

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      • #18
        As a " Plant engineer " I have moved many large machines. Here are a few tips which I feel are essential. (1) BOLT the machine to skids which should not flex excessivly with the machines weight set on one pipe roller between bolts. (2) DO use pipe rollers three at a time. (3) use pleny of cribbing fastened to the ramp planks. (4)do NOT be in a position with no escape route should anything fail. (5) be SURE your winch system will make the pull upstairs in one shot. Getting a new bite halfway up is not good.
        The previous posts re. wood are good. Fir or larch with tight knots are fine.
        Above all BE CAREFUL.
        Oh, and never, never use steel on steel as ramps or skids.


        • #19
          as long as there is support under them, either from the steps, or blocking to make the ramp longer than the stairway they'll work fine.

          I don't know the actual working load of a flat 2x12, but have had some serious loads on them. (F250 driven onto a too-tall trailer for one) with no issues. With the mill you have a small footprint, so would want to support the underside of the planks.

          Either way, considering typical stairs are around 8:12 rise, you're going to have a steep ramp so it's going to be a hard pull. (argument for longer ramps!) Remove whatever you can before hand, and make sure no-one is below the mill.



          • #20
            Take a good look at the stairs.....

            Most stair beams are basically 2 x 4..... wider board notched to the size of a 2 x 4. You MUST put at least one set of "feet" under the middle, preferably 2 spread from middle, or you are fooling yourself.

            After you figure out how teh stairs are, THEN consider things to make the machine slide easily....

            Keep eye on ball.
            Hashim Khan


            • #21
              At the top.

              I have a basement shop with 6 stairs to the Wonderland and have had to deal with this set up before. I think that your 2 planks will be fine and you can support them with "studs" to reduce any span you like.

              When I had to move my lathe which was about the same weight as yours I set up a horizontal bar across the door at the top of the stairs. It was quickly knocked together and rested against the outside wall of the house. I attached a sturdy rope to the lathe and wrapped the rope once around the bar and was able to belay the lathe down to the basement - very well controlled and safe.

              Of course you could use a come along or block and tackle to pull your equipment up or just use the above set up as a safety.

              I hope your move goes smoothly.


              • #22
                Just for grins look up load leveling engine lifts. It is a harness that adjusts the angle of the dangle on engine/transmissions when lifting by turning a crank. Since it is ratedfor engines and transmission combos, 1000 lbs?, it should hold the mill and may be of help while pulling if the weight doesn't want to pull straight. I rented one from Autozone for a day for cheap.

                As has already been said, think and be safe. This operation is done quite often everywhere but make sure everyone is safe 1st and worry about surroundings second. No injury is worth a piece of equipment or a buggered wall. Think it through and communicate with all involved and you'll do fine.


                • #23
                  With the possible exception of balsa wood, I wouldn't worry about using any of the three mentioned given they will rest on steps that are supported from underneath.
                  Not necessarily. Softwood here is marketed under a blanket designation of "SPF". That means that your standard building materials such as studs and planks will be either Spruce, Pine or Fir. All three are sold without distinction between them. We have a particular problem with pine now. Nearly all the pine on the market is salvaged beetle kill since there are few living pine trees left. This salvage wood may contain very weak areas from either rot or the boring activity of the beetles and even if it doesn't it is much more likely to be internally shattered as it was felled dry. I am building a deck right now from salvage pine and I am having to pick the wood very carefully. I am also doulbling up the joists just to be safe.
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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Black_Moons
                    Hi, I need to get my lathe/mill outta the basement.
                    I'd reverse the procedure you used to get it into the basement.

                    I think your plan is OK, there are a ton of good ideas and suggestion in the previous posts. The only thing I would add is use 3 2x12 instead of two and I would also screw 2x4s at 90° to the underside. It would make the 3 2x12 in to a unit and reduce twisting and wobbliness. I am sure there would be torsional twisting.


                    • #25
                      I got them into the basement on 7' ramps made outta 2x4, but they where blocked in 2 places (in addition to the 2 end supports for 2' or so)
                      but that was very steep. wanted longer ramps hence the question of strength.

                      Basement steps where actualy concrete set into the ground, so they should be plenty strong.. New steps into new basement are wood and look sad.. but I can reenforce them and ATM, the mill/lathe can go into the garage.. untill I can put a post into the ground in cement for a winchpoint.. Or get my neighbor to allow a big truck in his back yard.. or use his truck..

                      but in the end after looking at what I had left to move, I called 'BC careful movers' since they did a good job on my antiques.. they did drop one toolbox onto its side (slowly) but paid me $80 for the damages done to it on the spot as an option insted of applying for an insurance claim (One drawer needs some metal banging to have it lock again, some scratchs but otherwise seems ok)
                      I decided to just take the cash since I assumed they just would banged some dents into it to 'repair' it and such since its a toolbox and not a 'cosmetic' item (even though it was pristene.... it was only $399 when I bought it)
                      Tools inside took a few dents and scratchs but oh well...

                      They will be coming tomarrow with ramps and a 'paino' skid and 4 people.. $140/hr or so.. oh well. Just don't have the time/equipment handy.
                      Apparently they plan to 'move it like a paino'. however that is... Somehow I picture 4 people playing tug-a-war with my lathe.

                      Gonna have to make sure they know that if the castings are damaged/bent its likey to need a full replacement.
                      Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.


                      • #26
                        Many houses in this city have access only via steep steps, sometimes 60 or 90 steps or so. The furniture movers manage to get things like pianos in and out often using 4 or 6 rugby players with shoulder harnesses etc. I hope your steps are wide enough for them!


                        • #27
                          Another Idea

                          I like these cheap wire come alongs, Two of them will be necessary, one to pull and one for safety until you need to re-rigg and extend the safety one to take the load . I would double up the 2 x 12 and nail them together so they won't slip, even attach the planks to the stairs, and shore up the stairs underneath. wood columns are cheap as is blocking as necessary. If there isn't a continuous base for a pipe roller underneath then you will have to bolt runners on under the machines. Important that they can not break loose.. It is just a matter of pulling up on the load come along and keeping the safety one snug. One person can hammer the pipe rollers straight if they start to walk. Important to take your time and no one is ever behind the load or where if something breaks they are in harms way, Also I would use two pipes as rollers and as one reaches the center of gravity , you would tilt the load back and insert the second pipe at the front. If you don't think you are up to this, I would try to find some one with rigging experience Also a deadman to take the load, like a chain to a car or truck, I wouldn't rely on door framing. Good luck.