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OT: Coax cable question?

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  • OT: Coax cable question?

    I need to move my cable service to another room in the house.I have cable and internet coming in on what seems to be a common coax line.

    How long a cable run can I have and not have problems?
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  • #2
    I suspect that the additional length that you would encounter in a typical house would have no effect on the quality of the signal. However, each connector you add in line brings with it an "insertion loss". The best plan is to make a long uninterrupted run from the incoming source (cable box?) to the end device with the fewest possible connectors, instead of adding a coupler and extension onto the end of the existing cable.
    Weston Bye - Author, The Mechatronist column, Digital Machinist magazine
    ~Practitioner of the Electromechanical Arts~


    • #3
      I think the longest run i have e er done was slightly over 600ft. like Wes says, your best option would be to not worry about length as much as connectors and splitters. It would be best to make one run all the way back to the panel instead of splicing in to an existing run somewhere. its also a good idea to use rg6 instead of rg59.


      • #4
        Make sure of a good splice connection and then wrap the cable around your house two or three times if you wish.

        Seriously, just insure a good connection and you will be good to go anywhere in your house. You can even run a splitter and run a two fer if needed. Just did this very thing a few weeks ago.


        • #5
          Thanks guys,I am off to buy wire.
          I just need one more tool,just one!


          • #6
            This probably doesn't apply to within your house, but when my kids built their house 4+ years ago, the Cable Co. laid 700 feet of 1/4 inch aluminum conductor, with 3/4 inch insulation, inside 1 inch ID plastic pipe in a trench to the house.

            It was either because of burying it, or because they were trying to assure that they got the signal needed for TV and Internet, and RG whatever wouldn't cut the mustard.

            That's not to say that I wouldn't make the run to wherever in your house you want to put it. Make good connections, don't let any hairs off the shielding hang into the inner conductor channel, and you should lose little to no signal strength.

            Buy good splitters, tho'. The dollar ones aren't so good. Ask your Cable Provider for splitters. They should give you no static.




            • #7
              as everybody else has suggested, DO NOT skimp on your splitters or connectors.

              If it's not RG6 (or preferrably quad shield RG6) terminated with quality compression style terminals, don't bother. Twist on or crimp on connectors are worthless. Period.

              You'll want to put your cable modem behind as few splitters as possible, also. Cable boxes are far less finicky with signal strength and can be stuck at the end of the line.

              Mta or other voip boxes also need to get special treatment like modems.

              For cable, all splitters should be at least 1ghz sweep test certified, otherwise you'll kill your signal before it gets to your devices.

              You can find acceptable splitters almost anywhere. they run for like $5-10 depending on how many ports they have. They should also indicate the signal drop, in dB also. As long as they're certified for 1ghz or higher, you're fine. 900mhz is prob ably oktooo, but if like to be on the safe side..

              Most people don't appreciate the importance of quality components and sound terminations. They also ask me how my docsis 3.0 modem will hit over 60 mbps when my laptop is plugged directly into it with no router. It's all about maximizing your signal by having a high quality cable run...


              • #8
                don't let any hairs off the shielding hang into the inner conductor channel, and you should lose little to no signal strength.
                This is critical to making a good termination. Having the shielding touch the center conductor, while not as spectacularly destructive, is the equivalent of having your hot and neutral wires touching on your 110 wiring...


                • #9
                  back to the origin al question though: you can get away with using regular female to female F connector couplers as long as they're quality. This means 1ghz or higher certified mostly.

                  Make sure your connections are TIGHT too. Finger tight isn't sufficient. 7/16" wrenches are cheap, so go buy a spare and use it...