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  • New tips for cutting tools

    Hi All, first post for me and a question....

    Not touched a lathe for over 20 years now and have a Warco Mini Lathe on order, will be making some model bits and bobs and some air gun parts, nothing big...

    Anyway, my question, just been getting tools and bits ready and a friend of mine have given me a couple of cutting tools. They are the type that has changeable tips in them, never seen these before. Anyway been hunting about as I would like to get a couple of spare tips (just in case) I can't for the life of me work out what fits what and what all the numbers mean. The 2 tools I have have the following markings on them.

    SCLCR 0808 D08
    and the other I can't make out the first bit, something like SOJOR and then 1010 B07, also just noticed something etched on the side of the tip but no eye piece with me and can't make it out.

    Any help in what all the number mean and what I am looking for would be very much appreciated.



  • #2
    Dave, go to and enter SCLCR 0808 D08. You will have multiple sites with the info. That appears to be a company outside the USA that made the holder. Most inserts are pretty standard, Kennametal and Iscar have pretty decent charts for locating the correct size. Also KBC tools has a locator chart that should help.


    • #3

      I think you are referring to what are called "inserts".

      Try these pages from Enco, McMaster, and Little Machine Shop to see if they will help you decode what you have.

      Little Machine Shop

      There seem to be hundreds if not thousands of different ones available but the biggest limiting factor might be the inscribed circle of the insert you are using now.

      You might find that the price of the inserts to fit the holders you were given is more than what you want to spend. If so, the sets from LMS and Enco (~same) can get you what you want including inserts for $30-40 a set.

      There has been plenty of discussion here and other forums about speeds and feeds of carbide and its usefulness on mini-lathes. Some argue for it, other against. I use them, and they work just find for my liking and give a good finish. You will note that HSS inserts are also available and supposedly result in an even better finish on some materials.

      "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

      -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton


      • #4
        Big subject

        The designations are industry standard defined by ANSI B212-5
        However as a novice (like me) you will end up getting very confused.
        I do use some inserts on boring bars, but use HSS for general use.
        It would be silly to not use donated tools and it should be relative easy to get identical replacements for what you have.
        In the UK MSC/J&L have a huge variety, although not the cheapest to deal with.



        • #5
          Now you need a mill

          Welcome to the monkey house


          • #6
            Cutting tools are pertty simple. They follow a 4 letter-3 number(or more..) code.. usally..

            Shape is CRITICAL of course.
            Relief is also critical, you can't put a 0 degree relief insert into a 7 degree relief holder and expect it to work (0 degree inserts need special holders that angle the insert)
            Its rare you see the other relief angles AFAIK, Unsure if 11/15/20 degrees fit into a 7 degree holder.

            Next we have accuracy, thats usally M for low accuracy (molded) or G for high accuracy (ground) the rest.. don't show up much.

            Next is chipbreaker/hole.. Thats kinda confusing.
            Basicly, Chipbreakers are good, Never heard a reason not to have one (yet..)
            Of course, none of this tells you what kind its using, just if it has one or not.
            the hole is kinda critical and you'll have to inspect your existing inserts to find out if its a straight hole, or tapered hole, and what the aprox taper is.

            For an example, TCMT is the common type of triangular insert, 5 degree relief, molded (low accuracy) with a chipbeaker and 40~60degree countersunk hole for mounting.

            Next theres IC, or inscribed circle, Very important of course, you'll need to do a touch of measurement to figure out what size insert your holders are using.

            Next is thickness... Im not exactly sure why they offer the same size insert in diffrent thicknesses, but whatever. It doesnt seem to affect much other then having to change your tool height. Its likey more important for 'pin and clamp' toolholders and CNC operations.

            Next is corner radius.. Well, this one is more tricky
            a small radius lets you take light cuts in hard materials, cut 'sharp' inside shoulders (insted of a radius, PS radius inside shoulder is much stronger) but is much more brittle, and requires slower feed rates to get a good finish, and may have some serious problems getting a good finish on some materials

            A large radius, lets you take deeper cuts at higher feed rate and still achive a good finish, but it also does not like lighter cuts in some materials, making balancing depth of cut/feed/finish a little bit of a challange in some materials.

            Last but least we have chipbreaker style.. Unfortualy the 3 styles given on that URL are basicly only valid for.. whoever made that page, Triumph I think?
            Basicly not all that important right now. you'll learn more about the styles later.

            Of course, there are also other standards for naming carbide inserts.. making life extra fun! try not to worry too much and just get something that fits in a couple diffrent radiuses
            Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.


            • #7
              Wow, thanks guys, loads of info there for me to get my head around it all....

              No doubt I will be back with more questions, but looks like I have found the right place for the answers


              Oh, knudsen, yes, already started looking at one and the lathe not even arived yet...


              • #8
                please put your basic location in your profile so we know approx where you are. . . . . you could be a neighbor to someone here and not even know.


                • #9
                  Dave the SCLCR should have an 8mmx8mm shank. And holds a CCMT 2(1.5)1 insert or a CCMT 06-02-04 insert. Same insert…different designation. This is an 80 degree rhombic insert

                  Would the second one be a SDJCR?? If so It should have a 10mmx10mm shank and take a DCMT 2(1.5)1 or DCMT 07-02-04 insert. This is a 55 degree rhombic insert.

                  That will give you the shape and size of the insert. Now you just have to pick a grade depending on what your going to cut. Go to this site for all the sandvik grades:


                  BTW welcome aboard. What is your location??? Not often you see metric shanks on this side of the pond.
                  Last edited by dockrat; 06-16-2010, 06:36 PM.
                  Ernie (VE7ERN)

                  May the wind be always at your back


                  • #10
                    Warco Mini Lathe's are listed on a UK site ... I think he's on the other side of the pond. Just a guess though ...
                    "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

                    -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton


                    • #11
                      Hi Guys,

                      Sorry, updated my profile now and as you guessed I am over in the UK.

                      Lots of good information, and thanks to all the help.

                      I think I am going to look into getting a few HSS cutting tools to play with, these inserts look good and make a lot of sense but do seem to be quite expensive and I am quite happy with a grinder, so HSS may be better to start with. Not many places seem to sell the inserts on there own and come in packs of 10, so maybe put these aside for later use.


                      Oh, DOCKRAT, yes you got it, SDJCR (took a better look last night) it is and it is a 10 x 10 mm shank.
                      Last edited by DaveC; 06-17-2010, 03:45 AM.