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Cross Slide for 8" Rotary table

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  • winchman
    replied
    dvk,

    Have you considered making an accessory for you rotary table/cross-slide which clamps to the rotary table and puts a pointer over the center of rotation? Seems like that would be a big help in getting parts positioned quickly on the cross-slide.

    The thing I envision would have a vertical square rod perpendicular to the table. The lower end of the rod would be attached to a piece that keys on the table OD and is held in place with a screw/T-nut. A sliding clamp would hold the pointer at the correct height.

    Maybe you've already figured out something better.

    Roger

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  • Incoherent
    replied
    Indeed, very nice.

    I have already started the design phase for my own. I will use steel though and am aiming for a slightly lower profile.
    Clearly we have both gone down the same road on this problem.

    Cheers

    Incoherent

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  • JCHannum
    replied
    Very nice job on the cross slide.

    Leave a comment:


  • dvk
    replied
    debequem

    If you really need to do it that way you could always make your own here is mine on my 6" rotary table,made out of aluminum, so not real sturdy but you could make yours out of a material suited for the application.

    http://69.13.78.254/albums/0603/ddkiz/b54e4573.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Incoherent
    replied
    Re: The Volstro slide. I want it.
    Really out of my league though, I would need to by a full sized mill to fit it. I only have a sherline miniature mill.

    Thanks for the replies guys, it points me in the right direction, I will make something I think.

    Cheers

    Incoherent

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  • jcurrell
    replied
    volstro makes a slide with a spindle that mounts to the sindle of the mill to do such rad.

    ------------------

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  • metal mite
    replied
    You need a cross slide on top of a rotary table.

    The rotary on a cross slide won't work.

    have to reset each corner with that.

    With this ( slide on rotary) you can do all sorts of o ring grooves with radiused corners etc etc.

    Set the tool off center the tool radius plus the radius you require.

    Use the cross slide to do the straight sides and rotary for the corners.
    Works perfect.

    I looked for such a table on e-bay but ended up with a cnc mill instead.

    Search ebay for rotary crosslide.

    I was going to use the rotary for templates for the tracer mill.

    That German file will work good too.
    cheers

    mite

    Leave a comment:


  • Incoherent
    replied
    What XY table are you using?
    If I'm reading you right you have aquired one since your opening post, or?
    I am looking for a miniature variant for a 4" rotary table.

    Cheers

    Inc

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  • debequem
    replied
    That is exactly what I tried not long ago. It works, but I did find that there were some things I overlooked.

    My biggest problem was keeping track of the exact position of the part over the rotary table. A set of quill DRO’s would eliminate that problem. What I did was keep inserting a centering scope back into the mill and moving the mill’s table (which has its own DRO) to locate the part where I wanted.

    This was a lot mental gymnastics to keep track of everything, but it worked. I really want to add a set of horizontal quill DRO’s to the X/Y table, but I need to improve the table first.

    Marv

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  • Incoherent
    replied
    OK, first post. I have almost zero machining experience but am trying to learn. Could we resurrect this topic please.
    I found this forum searching for an XY table for almost exactly this problem.

    How can you use a rotary table on an XY table to solve this, without unclamping the part?
    In my case I am (for example) trying to make an o-ring channel which is rectangular but with radii in the corners.
    As I see it I need to first offset the table by the required radius, mill the first radius (90 degrees) and then I can mill the straight sides of the channel by moving the base XY table.
    So at this point I have two channels at right angles to each other, joined by a clean radius. But I am now far away from the rotary table offeset that I need. I have to go back to the correct offset and unclamp the part, repositioning it exactly.
    A second XY table on the rotary table would solve this. Or am I missing something blindingly simple?
    Question again is, is there something suitable. How do "real" machinist solve this problem?

    Cheers

    Incoherent

    Leave a comment:


  • CCWKen
    replied
    ... And why can't you do this with a rotary table?
    Are these parts flat like plate? Or irregular on top and bottom? Jig the three remaining corners, radius forth corner. Turn 180*, do opposite corner. Flip part over, repeat.

    But... if you just wanna buy tools... go ahead.

    Leave a comment:


  • debequem
    replied
    The part is rectangular and needs four 90 degree radii on all four corners. The radius is 0.0625".

    Can't do it on the lathe, but I am going to try to do it using my German mill (AKA file).

    However, long term I need a better solution. :-)

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  • Cass
    replied
    Can you do this with a lathe?

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    The Home Shop Machinist book, Projects 5 describes a vise with two adjustable jaws for a rotary table for similar application.
    It centers in the center hole on the table, and the jaws are independently adjustable. It is basically a very low profile two jaw chuck.
    Didn't someone recently post some pics of a small self centering vise he had made?

    Leave a comment:


  • debequem
    replied
    Thrud,

    I am mounting the rotart table to a mill X-Y table, but when I mount the work peice on the rotary table I need a way to precisely align the work to the rotational center of the rotary table.

    I have to make very small radius cuts (about 0.0625" radius) on the outside of a small part. Alignment is critical.

    My thought was to place another X-Y table on top of the rotary table and clamp the work to that. Then I can adjust the part's position exactly where I want it, make my cut, and move it again to cut the next corner and so on.

    If I make a jig I need to realign the jig twice since the part is not square.

    Marv

    Leave a comment:

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