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trouble removing tapered shank from tapping head

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  • trouble removing tapered shank from tapping head

    I have a tapmatic 50x tapping head and I'm trying to remove the jt33 mount from the head...but it won't budge. I made a drift but it just won't move and I can't find any secondary mechanism that would hold the taper. I have a drill chuck with a split locking collar but I can't see anything like that on the tapmatic. Any thoughts?

  • #2
    Brass hammer.. something about the harmonics?? or? it makes tapered drills turn loose, harley Davidson flywheel tapers..

    Don't beat, just tap. The ringing does the work.
    Excuse me, I farted.

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    • #3
      The drift; is there a hole through the back of the tapping head, allowing you to hit the end of the jt33 taper?

      If there is, could you tap the hole, screw a grease nipple in and use a high pressure grease gun to push the two parts apart?

      If there's no hole and you don't mind sacrificing the taper shank (which'll be worth a lot less than the tapping head), cut most of the shank off, drill & tap it for a grease nipple that way.

      Ian
      All of the gear, no idea...

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      • #4
        My tapamatic.. is just a plain old morse taper in a KWik switch 200 taper adapter.. I use a drift and brass mallet to ping and ring it.

        I could use a cheap source for the rubber collets.. mine is 00-1/4? taps.. smaller unit.. Any suggestions?
        Excuse me, I farted.

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        • #5
          It sounds like you need the official drill chuck removal wedges. This is McMaster Carr's listing at the bottom of the page since MSC isn't up this morning.

          http://www.mcmaster.com/#wedges/=87pnbg
          .
          "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

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          • #6
            Removing taper shank from body.

            I struggled with this problem on a large drill chuck. On a tapping head there is probably not a hole from the front or a place to make one. Drill and tap the end of the shank to accept a good size bolt like 1/2" put a short section of pipe over the shank bearing on the back ot the tapping head then install a large washer on the bolt over the end of the pipe making like a bearing puller. You will be surprised how easy it comes off.
            Byron Boucher
            Burnet, TX

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            • #7
              This is a more direct link to the good info that TGTool posted
              http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck...wedges/=87rmh4

              Does anybody have the measurements on the wedges?

              I have often thought they would be a good thing to make as a small project. They would be handy to have already made on the day that the &^%() chuck won't come off. Those days it is better to have a plan B ready, instead of using increasingly bigger hammers and torches, as I lose patience.
              Last edited by RancherBill; 08-01-2010, 09:12 PM.

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              • #8
                I think the wedges are rather.. hardened and ground. At least, I hope they are hardened. Great project if you got a surface grinder... Maybe millable and then hardenable.. but I think such thin objects might warp a bit.
                Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Black_Moons
                  I think the wedges are rather.. hardened and ground. At least, I hope they are hardened. Great project if you got a surface grinder... Maybe millable and then hardenable.. but I think such thin objects might warp a bit.
                  Yes, they're hardened but not ground. Commercial ones are often just stamped - i.e. smack the pi$$ out of one end to thin down the original material. I'd think milling off then smoothing would be entirely sufficient and case hardening would do if that's an option in your shop. Warpage shouldn't be a big deal. Even if not exactly flat the wedging action will work satisfactorily.
                  .
                  "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

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                  • #10
                    Er I meant to say I made a wedge. One big one instead of two smaller ones. I might try drilling out the end of the adapter but it's only MT2 and I'd like to do it non destructively if possible. I don't own a brass hammer. Anything I should know if I make one?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DaHui
                      Anything I should know if I make one?
                      Yea, it needn't be a 10 pounder !! Most projects my brass hammer gets used on are delecate projects. I made a 1" diameter brass knocker that has no handle. I use it for lining things up and hold it loosely in the hand.
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                      Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

                      It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DaHui
                        I have a tapmatic 50x tapping head and I'm trying to remove the jt33 mount from the head...but it won't budge. I made a drift but it just won't move and I can't find any secondary mechanism that would hold the taper. I have a drill chuck with a split locking collar but I can't see anything like that on the tapmatic. Any thoughts?
                        Here's my solution. I used a pickle fork and a pin in the hole I'd drilled to drive the pieces apart (self-documenting image ):

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                        • #13
                          I think I am going to either turn straight and add threads to the very end of the taper or else drill and tap internal threads to any taper I use in the future, before I put it into service, just to make removal a little easier.
                          Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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                          • #14
                            Before you get carried away with a BFH, go get a can of compressed air for dusting keyboards (the stuff with refigerant). Hold the can upside down and freeze the taper. I'm not kidding - it works!

                            http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/sho...t=stuck+tapers

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                            • #15
                              Before you get too crazy trying to get the taper out....
                              I bought a used head at auction and it was threaded!!
                              Looked just like the head I had with a taper, might be
                              something to think about.
                              Dave P.

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