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  • Oxygen-Acetylene welding

    Hi. Im still wondering what kinda rods one uses with an Oxy/Acetylene torch to weld.. Some people have mentioned cloths hangers.. but well, All mine are plastic, and somehow I suspect a real rod might be better.

    I never see anything labeled oxygen/Acetylene or gas welding in the welding supply sections of tool stores.. Should I just use Tig filler?
    Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

  • #2
    Black_Moons, I can tell you what not to use

    That copper coated stuff at the welding store, ask for their un-coated hi-tensile gas welding rod, generally 3/32 is a good all around size.

    Used plenty of metal coat hangers but only in a pinch, they just are not around any longer either.

    Ken

    So I do not get hammered with disagreement, probably should not have been so critical of the copper coated welding rod.
    It works fine, I just never liket that little scum floating on top of the puddle when using it.

    The un-coated hi-tensile is stronger and fully compatible where ever gas rod is appropriate.
    Last edited by Ken_Shea; 08-18-2010, 11:34 PM.

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    • #3
      You can use anything compatible with your base metal. OA rods for welding are bare or copper clad, and typically come in 36" lengths and whatever diameter you want. I use mild steel rod in 1/16" to 1/4" diameter. 'Tig' filler is fine. The copper clad rod is usually more expensive. If you will keep the rod in a humid environment, it may help with rust prevention. I don't know what issues Ken has had with the copper clad stuff. I've used a lot of both over 30 years and haven't noticed anything particular to them.

      Brass rod for use with OA is available with or without a flux coating.
      Last edited by chipmaker4130; 08-18-2010, 11:35 PM.
      Southwest Utah

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      • #4
        Just ask

        Soft black "iron" (steel) rods.

        Instead of just looking - ask.

        I have yet to see a good welding supplier that does not stock them.

        Brasing, bronzing, soft and silver soldering, hard-facing, welding of brass, bronze, steel, aluminium, stainless steel, cast iron etc. etc. are all within the gambit of a good oxy-acet welder and his kit.

        Those rods and associated "consumables" will all be there too - just ask.

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        • #5
          I have used coat hangers in the past, they are harder to find these days. Coat hangers are great for exhaust work, and even non critical sheet metal work.


          Most of my OA welding these days is brazing, everything else is Tig, Stick or Mig.

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          • #6
            If you're welding coat hangers, then yes by all means use coat hangers for filler.
            But seriously it is the same as the wire used for mig welding, ER70S6.
            I buy it in 36" cut lengths at one of the local welding supply stores as it is also used as tig filler rod.
            Although I usually use 3/32" or 1/16" I have used .045" off of a spool of mig wire in a pinch. The copper coated wire is handy for rust protection during storage but I usually get the bare wire as I don't have too many issues with moisture.


            Edited for grammar
            Last edited by Willy; 08-19-2010, 01:15 AM.
            Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
            Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

            Location: British Columbia

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            • #7
              RG-45 is a good general purpose rod for mild steel:

              http://lmgtfy.com/?q=RG-45+gas+welding+rod

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              • #8
                Don't use coat hanger for anything except maybe exhaust pipe, well I guess it might be ok for repairing broken coat hangers. Honestly coat hanger makes terrible welding wire because it is full of trash and you never know what is in the weld besides usually being a PIA to weld with. Get some true high quality gas welding rod by a reputable welding filler company like Linde, Hobart, etc and forget the coat hanger and the no name welding rods from auto parts stores and the like. They generally just pop, splatter and make a mess of things and when you switch to the real quality type rods there is a world of difference. Also like it was said earlier try to find the uncoated rods because Copper is slightly detrimental to the weld, hardly enough to be a problem but not good for it anyway.


                Just another point about the Copper coating, it will not protect the rods from rusting and it is not there for moisture protection. The Copper coating is extremely thin and is only there to prevent wear to the draw dies when sizing the wire, actually the bare rods may be slightly more rust resistant due to a thin oil coating they have but in either case the manufacturers make no provisions for the welder to allow his rods to get wet! When shopping for rods you will probably find that the bare uncoated rods are actually more expensive than the Copper coated rod.

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                • #9
                  I'm sure the wire or rods the welding stores sell has been tested to do the best for certain jobs, but I have welded a ton of stuff (all mild steel) with plain old baling wire strait off the farm. I bought a box of bailing wire 15 years ago at a public auction and have uses it for almost every thing your imagination can come up with. For brazing work I use the flux coated brazing rod.
                  _____________________________________________

                  I would rather have tools that I never use, than not have a tool I need.
                  Oregon Coast

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ken_Shea
                    ask for their un-coated hi-tensile gas welding rod, generally 3/32 is a good all around size.
                    The un-coated hi-tensile is stronger and fully compatible where ever gas rod is appropriate.
                    Ken, I'm not going to say that You are wrong...but back when I was learning to gas weld we were taught to use a mild steel filler .
                    The reason is the carbon in the base metal and the chance of having a carburizing flame instead of a neutral flame is greater when learning to weld and increases the chances of having a brittle weld. In fact a lot of old welders I know that weld chrome molly tubing use mild steel filler so as not to make the joints brittle.

                    Just My 3 cents
                    Steve

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                    • #11
                      I agree with Steve. Even aircraft structures made of 4130 are welded with mild steel filler and O/A.
                      Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

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                      • #12
                        70S3 Tig rod here.Keep a pc of scotchbrite on rod box to knock copper off.I was always told the copper was to help in drawing the rod during mauf.It comes right off and does offer some protection during storage.BW


                        Oh yeah,put me in the "just say no" to coat hangar crowd.They even suck as hangars........start shopping at the right places(Goodwill,yardsales and dumpsters)and get real wood hangars.

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                        • #13
                          No need to remove the copper coating is is so thin it does not make a difference, Dosnt help with corrosion resistance either. Left a rod out in the rain to see what would happen. Got one rusty rod.

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                          • #14
                            The general rule is NOT to use tig-fillers for O/A welding and vice versa. They do have different alloys.
                            The chemistry of the surrounding gas is quite different.


                            Nick

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                            • #15
                              gas welding.

                              Henrob welding car bodies.. you can take a panel, cut it to it just " 1/16th touches" the other.. as you heat it.. it growes together and fuse welds.. Since it is stretched together and shrinks when cooled, there is very little "extra metal" to dolly back down level..

                              Light 60 grit work, a skim of putty and it dissapears.. very little spoon and dolly hammering to level out. The first thing I did with my henrob was a gas filler hole in a 41 chevy.. vertical.. I had to add mig wire.. another trick..

                              What is it you are welding? have you bought the blue aluminum welding glassses yet? (mine are still in pouch) I have been working off the tiny acetylene and oxygen tanks.. MC.. in the lil holder.. so I have not done much with mine in a while.. I got a miller tig and welded six hours with it yesterday.
                              Excuse me, I farted.

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