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Best thread sealant for compressed air fittings

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  • chipmaker4130
    replied
    Originally posted by MichaelP
    Chipmaker, is this the one you have: http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/p...8926G_CL_1.jpg ?
    This is the one I use. I get it at the Auto Parts store. I make sure I only get it on the male thread and have never had any ingress to the system.

    The second picture shows the mix of brass, cast and steel fittings I use. I go for USA when I can, but somtimes (weekends, holidays etc) I get impatient and use what I can get.

    By the way, My couplers face down to prevent debris entering, and relieve angular stress on the hose. It also seems to help the cheapies seal without 'arranging' the dangle.



    Last edited by chipmaker4130; 09-06-2010, 06:51 PM.

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  • doctor demo
    replied
    Originally posted by 914Wilhelm



    I think this is essentially the same stuff as the previous post. Used it on water,air, gas lines forever.
    Times2

    Steve

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  • MichaelP
    replied
    Paul, fortunately (or unfortunately?) the big box stores do not have enough variety of air fittings to be confusing. The leaking joints are all 1/4" NPT (but not all 1/4" NPT joints are leaking, of course).

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  • Paul Alciatore
    replied
    It sounds to me like far too many problems if you are doing things right. I suspect either cheap fittings or mismatched thread styles. Compression fittings should not need any sealant unless they are damaged.

    I would be concerned with the use of inexpensive components from a variety of sources. Also, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. do not provide the best advice when purchasing matching fittings. Their personnel are hired on the cheap, not for their experience. Many DIFFERENT style fittings have very similar threads. If you attempt to use a male thread of one style with a female of another, it may actually "fit" but getting it to stop leaking will be all but impossible and both may be damaged from the attempt. Even if you put enough sealer or epoxy or whatever to get it initially sealed, it may very well leak later.

    Do go to a real hardware store. One that has been there for 25 to 50 years and talk to the people in the plumbing department. They will be much more useful in matching the various fittings. Do not just assume that if a thread "fits" that it is a proper fit.

    If you need some fittings or devices that the local hardward does not have, McMaster is an excellent web source and you can count on the quality being OK. Auto parts stores can also be an excellent source for some kinds of fittings. But again, be sure that the thread you are buying is a proper match for the thread you have.

    With good quality, matching components you should have little or no need of sealants except for tradational, tapered threaded pipe fittings.

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  • MichaelP
    replied
    OK, thank you.

    BY the way, I found a nice Loctite Product Guide: http://thirdshift.nu/portfolio/v3/pdf/mro_catalog.pdf

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  • wierdscience
    replied
    Originally posted by MichaelP
    Chipmaker, is this the one you have: http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/p...8926G_CL_1.jpg ?

    Wierdscience, when you use Loctite 567, how soon after tightening can you apply full air pressure? Immediately? Even if the leak was significant?
    Not immediately,it really needs 24 hours to cure fully even with activator.If your putting in a system that's not too bad.I use it because it covers pretty much everything including steam up to 400*.The cure rate is 30min-24hours and the max pressure is 10,000psi.Technically according to the charts it's at 20% of it's 10,000psi strength at 30minutes,but material and temperature come into play.

    564 cures in five minutes,good for 10,000psi and 300*F,probably the one for repair work/quick assembly.

    561 Stick is new on the market,I haven't tried it yet,but the salesman says it's great.

    As with all Loctite products you may or may not need an activator on non-ferrous fittings.

    http://useloctite.com/products/produ...ealing4c67.php

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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Nitto

    I use all "Nitto" fittings and have only had to use teflon tape - never a problem. It is "soft" and screws on/in easily and can be used immediately. If it leaks first time I either put more teflon tape on the existing or more likely pull all the old teflon off and re-start with more turns of telflon tape on the male screw.

    When it comes to unscrewing the joint, it is dead easy and no bits of jointing etc. getting where they shouldn't be - and they leave a nice joint to re-use without and further preparation or cleaning.

    I have never had a threaded joint failure in a Chinese tool - or any others either.

    If I do have a leak it is nearly always caused by me pulling the hose side-ways at the joint - so that's my fault - not the joint's.

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  • madokie
    replied
    thread sealer

    use aviation form-a-gasket#1 or #3 from the auto parts store. its that dark brown ,black goo, thick as chassis grease stuff works great for me, seals every thing up, never a leak on my engines.i hate silicon, it hardens into little pieces, and then travels into some place it shouldnt be.(oil passages ,valve lifters)
    Last edited by madokie; 09-06-2010, 04:25 AM.

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  • MichaelP
    replied
    Chipmaker, is this the one you have: http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/p...8926G_CL_1.jpg ?

    Wierdscience, when you use Loctite 567, how soon after tightening can you apply full air pressure? Immediately? Even if the leak was significant?

    Leave a comment:


  • 914Wilhelm
    replied
    Good product almost sounds like a proctology product




    I think this is essentially the same stuff as the previous post. Used it on water,air, gas lines forever.

    Leave a comment:


  • Richard-TX
    replied
    This is what I use.

    http://www.amazon.com/Pipe-Joint-Com.../dp/B000KKVWL6

    I quit using teflon tape long ago.

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  • wierdscience
    replied
    Loctite 567,clean the threads with a tap and die,apply the 567 and screw together.

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  • projectman
    replied
    thread sealant

    For tough jobs I use gasoila red hard set I don't like silicones because of possible paint problems ,fish eyes don't look good in a custom paint job .

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  • Jim Shaper
    replied
    Milton off-shored a lot of their production a few years back. Ironically, that was the same time that Northern Tool raised the price on their quick connects. They used to be pretty reasonably competitive with the chicom stuff, now they're at least 3x the cost (but still worth it).

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  • chipmaker4130
    replied
    Michael, I've had similar problems with junk fittings. I use Permatex 'SuperBlue' silicone and haven't had a leak since. Fittings sealed with this compound are also very easy to undo. The single downside is that you might have to give the joint a few hours before applying pressure if the leak is fairly large. The stuff used to be part #778, but it has a new number now. I think both are currently on the tube.

    I've not found any generic chinese quick-couplers worth keeping. They vary greatly from lot to lot. I have had nothing but great performance from Milton branded products so if you can find those I'd recommend them. I can't say for sure where they're made nowadays.
    Last edited by chipmaker4130; 09-05-2010, 11:04 PM.

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