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  • Hanging Tranglular Doors

    Just had this door and frame made .wood is sapele. door is 1.5 inches thick....no editing software on this comp ..only the photobucket resize was used ..so warts and all.



    Was planning on hanging it on its longest side ..but just realised, I cant do this without hacking it about...seems unknown to me until now ..that if you hang on the longest side..the top triangle ..will want to crash into top style as its opened..

    Now then ...i could chisel/ machine /sand part of the door away for clearance ..but will it just be a bit at the top on the other side ..or will it effect the whole door ..all the way down the slanted top style ..

    I could go ahead and hang it ..once frame is in position ..and find out the hard way ...thought you guys may have come across something similar ..and stop me doing damage.

    all the best.markj

  • #2
    I expect you will have to relieve the entire top of the door but tapered from th4e furthest left and tapered more towards the top. If I were you, having such a nice door made, I think I'd do it in scrap first to see how it's going to fly. Glue some plywood up to the thickness of your door and go from there.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

    It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

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    • #3
      Maybe...

      You may want to try some cabinet type 170* hinges, they tend to "push" the door out and away from the frame a bit on opening and so may gain you some clearance.

      Three issues: I don't know if you want to use them as they require those 32mm(IIRC) flat bottom holes, (b) given the thickness of the door, even with a reduction in weight due to the panels (as opposed to a solid constant thickness), the door maybe too heavy for those types of hinges, (c) you may be "forced" into something else from style or appearances that would not allow for that type of hinge (the smaller versions can be "hidden", or some can, but they are really meant for doors that are quite light...)

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      • #4
        least you know what im going on about ..i posted this in a uk DIY forum ..and no one understands .. thick buggers .

        all the best.markj

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aboard_epsilon
          least you know what im going on about ..i posted this in a uk DIY forum ..and no one understands .. thick buggers .

          all the best.markj
          I understand it because I've been there, done that and all ready had the "ah sh1t" moment! I try to make all my doors a very tight fit and end up having to plane (relieve) the back side of the closing edge. the nice thing is I was able to use neodyium sp magnets to act like bullet catches to hold them closed.
          - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
          Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

          It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't know if any hardware would help.

            You are right about the top edge jamming when it opens. It will be worst at the longest side and almost nill at the short side.

            The general shape you need on the top edge is a conic one. Think of an inverted funnel: the top edge needs to be shapped like that with the axis of the fullel at the hinge point. You do not have to alter any of the other surfaces, but the rounding of the top will of course cut into the back face.

            At the longest side, you will need to sand it almost to a point. You could probably get away with about a 1/8 to 1/4" radius, depending on how tight of a fit you have there. I would go ahead and put the hinges on and then test it carefully. Removable pin hinges will help. Rough sand a conic shape first. Then assemble it in the closed position and slowly open it to see where it catches. Remove it and sand more there. Repeat as needed.
            Paul A.
            SE Texas

            Make it fit.
            You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Paul Alciatore
              You are right about the top edge jamming when it opens. It will be worst at the longest side and almost nill at the short side.

              The general shape you need on the top edge is a conic one. Think of an inverted funnel: the top edge needs to be shapped like that with the axis of the fullel at the hinge point. You do not have to alter any of the other surfaces, but the rounding of the top will of course cut into the back face.

              At the longest side, you will need to sand it almost to a point. You could probably get away with about a 1/8 to 1/4" radius, depending on how tight of a fit you have there. I would go ahead and put the hinges on and then test it carefully. Removable pin hinges will help. Rough sand a conic shape first. Then assemble it in the closed position and slowly open it to see where it catches. Remove it and sand more there. Repeat as needed.
              My thoughts were along the lines of routing the top edge maybe as much as 3/8-1/2". You could get away with less if you had a slightly larger gap at the top edge of the jamb or if you set the hinges further into the frame.

              If you can give us some numbers, we can probably tell you exactly how much to take and where. What is the angle between the long edge and the top edge? How thick is the door? How much will the hinge protrude beyond the door face? How much clearance are you planning between the top of the door and the top edge of the jamb?

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              • #8
                Thanks for replies so far guys .
                about 2mm clearance i was planning ..

                am i right ..in saying... the further away down the top edge of the door from the hinges... the less the problem becomes.


                all the best.markj

                Comment


                • #9
                  NUMBERS

                  Short edge of door 16.5 inches
                  long edge of door 37 inches
                  width of door 23 inches
                  thicknees 1.5 inches ..rebate the same but 1/2 inch wide

                  if the calcultions take far too much off ..will revert to hanging it from short side

                  all the best.markj
                  Last edited by aboard_epsilon; 09-15-2010, 01:21 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Door

                    Make a large scale drawing of the door and the hinge center and you will see what has to be removed for the door to function. As I recall it is about 5 deg.

                    JRW

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                    • #11
                      On one door I did build hinges that dropped the door to clear when opening, and lifted it back in when closing. Will need to dig through notebooks, but I may still have the drawings. (only about 60 notebooks in the attic!)

                      Essentially, the pin was mounted on parallels that let them swing out and down, held in place when closed by a spring loaded rod activated by the latch. When you operated the catch (also held door shut), the hinges would release and the whole door would drop down a 1/4 inch or so, after closing the door, you pressed on the hinge side to lift it back in place.
                      I'm sure if someone wanted to get creative, they could work out a design that would eliminate pressing on the hinge side, but that's what worked for my purpose at the time.

                      Key is the parallels need to have a stop so they don't lay horizontal, or you need to lift the door to latch the hinge side, if they stop somewhere around 45 degrees, simply pressing in will work.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Paul Alciatore
                        I don't know if any hardware would help.

                        You are right about the top edge jamming when it opens. It will be worst at the longest side and almost nill at the short side.

                        The general shape you need on the top edge is a conic one. Think of an inverted funnel: the top edge needs to be shapped like that with the axis of the fullel at the hinge point. You do not have to alter any of the other surfaces, but the rounding of the top will of course cut into the back face.

                        At the longest side, you will need to sand it almost to a point. You could probably get away with about a 1/8 to 1/4" radius, depending on how tight of a fit you have there. I would go ahead and put the hinges on and then test it carefully. Removable pin hinges will help. Rough sand a conic shape first. Then assemble it in the closed position and slowly open it to see where it catches. Remove it and sand more there. Repeat as needed.
                        youre dead on there Paul

                        but think the way to do it is ..to have the door fully mounted up, and open at 90 degrees ..and then try and close it to see where it catches.

                        all the best.markj

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by kendall
                          On one door I did build hinges that dropped the door to clear when opening, and lifted it back in when closing. Will need to dig through notebooks, but I may still have the drawings. (only about 60 notebooks in the attic!)

                          Essentially, the pin was mounted on parallels that let them swing out and down, held in place when closed by a spring loaded rod activated by the latch. When you operated the catch (also held door shut), the hinges would release and the whole door would drop down a 1/4 inch or so, after closing the door, you pressed on the hinge side to lift it back in place.
                          I'm sure if someone wanted to get creative, they could work out a design that would eliminate pressing on the hinge side, but that's what worked for my purpose at the time.

                          Key is the parallels need to have a stop so they don't lay horizontal, or you need to lift the door to latch the hinge side, if they stop somewhere around 45 degrees, simply pressing in will work.
                          Yes i had already thought of that ..we have what are called "rise and fall" hinges here .......but they rise as the door is opened to clear thick carpet etc ..

                          upside down ..dont know if they would work ..and the clearance would have to be something like 1 inch....even though its tapering like paul said ..you then have to give it all right across.........meaning that i would have to put a large threshold on the door and take an inch off the bottom.

                          all the best.markj

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                          • #14
                            A perenial problem and easy enough to sort:- (even in the UK)

                            Hang the door open & close it till it touches the frame.

                            mark where it touches on the inside of the door, & allow a little for clearance

                            now draw a line down the inside from the mark to the inside corner on the lower end.

                            on the top of the door draw a line about 10mm off the outside face

                            plane off the inside edge to the lines

                            rehang door & tweak if required.

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                            • #15
                              Bevel baby Bevel! You will have to bevel either the inside corner of the upper triangle or the inside corner of the frame it goes into for an easy slide. Should be un noticed if done carefully. use carbon paper to mark and cut back. Could be done slightly on both. The face reveal should remain the same. Just my opinion, probably wrong. Nice job on the door ! Fred

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