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Layout Fluid For Dark Materials - Delrin

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  • Layout Fluid For Dark Materials - Delrin

    Anyone have ideas for layout fluid on dark materials? Especially for difficult materials like Delrin or Acetal? I'm currently using a red china marker for less than precise marks but would like something better. Apparently Dykem makes a white stain (and other colors) in addition to the regular red and blue dyes but I have only found it in the gallon size. Has anyone used the stains before to know if they would work on slippery plastics?
    "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

    -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton

  • #2
    I use a silver marker/paint pen. I think it is a Sharpie brand. Not sure what to use if that's not fine enough for your needs. Maybe paint pen, then scratch through the paint?

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    • #3
      Keep an assortment of colors of Sharpies around for these special occasions. A nice chartreuse would look nice on the darker materials.
      "Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."~ Thomas Jefferson

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      • #4
        Yes, I have a few of the paint markers that might work but I was looking for covering an entire surface not knowing exactly where I might need to make additional marks later. Kind of difficult to paint an entire surface with a marker.
        "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

        -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton

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        • #5
          White spray paint?

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          • #6
            I guess as long as it did not attack the surface like the new paints specifically for plastic it might work. Also, removal (if not machined off) might be tricky. Anyone know how Acetal reacts to acetone?

            Originally posted by Dr Stan
            White spray paint?
            "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

            -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton

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            • #7
              I use a silver Sharpie brand marker. In fact, I've pretty much switched to a black Sharpie for layout work on everything else. I use alcohol to wipe it off.

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              • #8
                I use this, but have not tried it on plastics:


                RWO

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by RKW
                  I guess as long as it did not attack the surface like the new paints specifically for plastic it might work. Also, removal (if not machined off) might be tricky. Anyone know how Acetal reacts to acetone?
                  Just remembered there are some latex spray paints on the market. Wonder if they would work.

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                  • #10
                    acetal & acetone

                    I use acetone to glue acetal all the time. All you need to do is rub a little acetone on the plastic, if it smears, don't use it unless you want to glue it.

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                    • #11
                      I think this material would work the best from what I have found so far. Information found on "the other forum" from 2005 showed old recipes and methods for a whitewash. Apparently a white pigmented shellac is the way to go and can be removed using ammonia. Certainly worth a try.

                      Originally posted by RWO
                      "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

                      -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton

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                      • #12
                        Typewriter whiteout? Maybe try thinning it a bit with alcohol? I havn't tried this myself, but the mention of old "whitewash" formulas above made me think of it.

                        Bob

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                        • #13
                          Id look into a cheap water based latex white paint, Yaknow, the kind that wipes off the walls when you try and clean a stain on the wall...

                          Isoproponal will take such a paint off easy (At least, as easy as the inkjet ink I spilt all over my wall that one time and started removing more paint then ink...), and generaly does not harm plastics.
                          Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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                          • #14
                            Most of the "Whiteners" tend to put a thickness on the workpiece which then tears when scribed. Not thought about the UV markers for a thin "Film"??

                            Regards Ian
                            You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.

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                            • #15
                              If that was needed in my shop I would Scotch Brite the acetal to scuff it a tad...white scotch brite works fine, take a bottle of "white out" solution sold for typist secretaries and then thin that with denatured alcholol. You don't paint it on, you rub it on with you finger trying to get it on in a thin application. You can then use either a pencil to mark it or a scribe for more accuracy. This is pretty much what I used for gun engraving. If put on thin you can scribe some very accurate lines. If you want to keep it from wearing off while you work you can spray it with "artist fixatiff" sold at art stores. A short snort of fixatif and it dries in seconds, is very durable and removes with denatured alcohol very easy.
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