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  • Rip-Fence Rip-Off

    I just purchased a new Wilton 8201 bandsaw and got the rip-fence for the saw. After setting up the machine and installing the rip-fence, noticed that the bottom of the fence was about 1/2" above the top of the table.




    I called the company asked it there was some adjustment that can be made to lower the fence for cutting material less than 1/2". They said that was the saw was made and nothing can be done about it. The only way I can see to fill the gap is to bolt (I don't do welding.) a spacer to the bottom of the fence to make the bottom of the rip-fence flush with the table top. It just frosts me that new equipment can't be correct from the factory. You are forced to modify it to make it work.
    Bill

    Being ROAD KILL on the Information Super Highway and Electronically Challenged really SUCKS!!

    Every problem can be solved through the proper application of explosives, duct tape, teflon, WD-40, or any combo of the aforementioned items.

  • #2
    UHMW or Puckboard

    Piece of Nylon UHMW or puck board and cut to fit size of fence and fasten it on. Or if cutting 1/2 inch wood just c- clamp on a piece of material sized to the Fence for the thin stuff??

    Comment


    • #3
      That's insane, its like the things an afterthought --------- what about a series of small rollers at the bottom to fill in the gap? depends what the underneath looks like for attaching but could be an option...

      I do like the UHMW idea as the stuff is durable and pretty friction free...
      Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 10-19-2010, 11:20 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        It looks as though the rip fence is attached to a bracket that in turn bolts onto the table (2nd photo). Can you slot the holes that the bolts go through before it attaches to the table?

        I do agree that Wilton didn't meet the mark with that product the way it is.

        rock~
        Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.

        Comment


        • #5
          nice piece of design work there

          Comment


          • #6
            Nothing wrong with the design. I have that same kind of fence on my cabinet saw. Even though the aluminum is anodized it still is sticky when you feed stock through it. And there is no heigth it could be set at that wouldn't occasionally be to high for the stock being fed through it. Madman is right UHMW is the way to go. If you wanted to slot the HUMW and put two bolts in the fence it could be made to be self leveling on the table. Keep in mind, that fence is a tool and not an art work so don't be afraid to customize it for your own special needs.

            I made a fence out of Corian counter top material for my bandsaw.

            PS: After a second look, it appears you may be able to slot the mounting screws or even make a new mount for it and have the best of both worlds. You might be able to set it flush no matter what?
            Last edited by Your Old Dog; 10-19-2010, 12:50 PM.
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            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, a slab of UHMW (available from most woodworking stores) is the hot ticket. Screw it to the side of the fence and never look back.

              I did that on my tablesaw and was delighted with the change.

              Comment


              • #8
                you think.... glad its not made in the far east or I can already imagine the comments it would draw.

                That is the worst design for a bandsaw fence I have seen in 40 years, I do not expect to buy supposedly decent kit and then have to modify it to make it fit for purpose. if it needs a strip face or spacer it should come supplied and fitted.... unless it is a right mickey mouse outfit.....

                Comment


                • #9
                  I had a Taiwan 16" wood band and the supplied fence had about a 1/4" gap that appeared to be designed in. However, the fence was soon discarded as being near useless, at least in cutting wood. I bought the saw primarily for re-sawing rough cut slabs. and soon found that after 2-3 cuts the blade would not cut straight with out 'canting' the piece to follow the line. After building several jigs from different web sites/magazines - and a couple of my own - I found I could get the best cut with just free handing.
                  If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you really want it to set down on the table why not just take off the fence and machine down the casting the fence bolts to can't tell to good from the pics but looks possible. Still a bummer that you would have to do that.
                    Richard

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have had the 8201 wilton saw for about 2.5 years now. I have the rip fence for it also so I ran downstairs to check the gap on mine. It's right at 1/8 of an inch. Are you sure you have it mounted correctly? If you want I could probably take a few pictures of mine and post them if it would help.

                      P.S. It comes in pretty handy at times and with the camlock clamp it's easy to move it out of the way when you need to do some freehand sawing.
                      Jonathan P.

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                      • #12
                        I haven't read all the posts, but my first thought would be to elongate the holes in the bar that bolts to the table edge, thus allowing the entire mount to sit lower. I don't know whats in the front but I assume it's similar. You may have to replace the bar with a wider piece. Mounting something under the fence wouldn't fly with me.

                        JL........................

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Not Possible

                          Originally posted by RichardG
                          If you really want it to set down on the table why not just take off the fence and machine down the casting the fence bolts to can't tell to good from the pics but looks possible. Still a bummer that you would have to do that.
                          Richard
                          Richard,

                          That was to be my first choice to solve the problem - machining down the black metal casting, but it is hollow with only a wall thichness of 1/4" so taking it down the 1/2" is a no go.
                          Bill

                          Being ROAD KILL on the Information Super Highway and Electronically Challenged really SUCKS!!

                          Every problem can be solved through the proper application of explosives, duct tape, teflon, WD-40, or any combo of the aforementioned items.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Correct

                            Originally posted by japcas
                            I have had the 8201 wilton saw for about 2.5 years now. I have the rip fence for it also so I ran downstairs to check the gap on mine. It's right at 1/8 of an inch. Are you sure you have it mounted correctly? If you want I could probably take a few pictures of mine and post them if it would help.

                            P.S. It comes in pretty handy at times and with the camlock clamp it's easy to move it out of the way when you need to do some freehand sawing.
                            There is only one way the fence can go together and that way produces the 1/2" gap. I agree that with the cam-lock, it will be be handy but only for big material!
                            Bill

                            Being ROAD KILL on the Information Super Highway and Electronically Challenged really SUCKS!!

                            Every problem can be solved through the proper application of explosives, duct tape, teflon, WD-40, or any combo of the aforementioned items.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Considered

                              Originally posted by JoeLee
                              I haven't read all the posts, but my first thought would be to elongate the holes in the bar that bolts to the table edge, thus allowing the entire mount to sit lower. I don't know whats in the front but I assume it's similar. You may have to replace the bar with a wider piece. Mounting something under the fence wouldn't fly with me.

                              JL........................

                              I considered this option but there is not sufficient material in the bar that attaches to the table to be able to enlongate the holes the 1/2" needed.

                              However, that gives me an idea of looking at making a bracket which will bolt into the existing holes in the table but have a place to remount the rip-fence bar at a lower position.
                              Bill

                              Being ROAD KILL on the Information Super Highway and Electronically Challenged really SUCKS!!

                              Every problem can be solved through the proper application of explosives, duct tape, teflon, WD-40, or any combo of the aforementioned items.

                              Comment

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