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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Pita

    Mark.

    That is a PITA.

    Each Total Tools (TT) shop is a franchise and so they will vary from poor to excellent with some of the rest some-where mid-scale about "good".

    It seems that yours is toward the "poor" end of the scale and mine at the top. But mine services a pretty big industrial client base where-as others may not.

    I have had occasion to go into other TT stores and have not got what I wanted and left and went to my own TT store and either got it off the shelf or had it ordered in.

    If you email or PM me the details of the wheels you want, I will be at TT here in the next week or so and will get you the manufacturer's stock number, cost and availability and will send it to you.

    For surface grinding steel, you will need a 7" x 1/2" x 1 1/4" (31.75mm) bore for the spigots on older grinders or a 32mm (~1.260") bore (for newer grinders) aluminium oxide. Tool & cutter grinding will require saucer and cup wheels at least. TC will require CBN or diamond.

    Here are some older pics of come of my wheels and my surface grinder. There is no good reason why a good T&C grinder cannot do a good job of surface grinding as my T&C grinders will - and do:

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...l_balance3.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...l_balance4.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...Abrasives3.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...Abrasives2.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...f_Grinder1.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkA
    replied
    Back on the wheels again

    Hey oldtiffie,

    I called into my local TT yesterday, and when I asked them for a price on a medium-course ALOX wheel 7" x 1/2", about 3 of the guys looked at me like I'd just sprouted a second head or something.

    After much muttering and page-flipping they decided they would ring someone on Monday.

    I didn't even bother asking about CBN.

    To help make sure I get wheels suitable for the T&C grinder, do you have the manufacturer part numbers for the wheel described above, as well as the CBN wheels you use?

    Anything would be appreciated.

    Regards
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Grinder wheel hub

    I said in a previous post in this thread that I'd include details of the removable grinding hub on my universal grinder - here:


    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=G198



    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...tockCode=G1989

    Here are the pics which should be self-explanatory:
    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub1.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub2.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub3.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub4.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub5.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub6.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub7.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub8.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a.../U-gr-hub9.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    TT

    Mark.

    Quite often when I want stuff from TT it has to be "got in" as the cost of having it sitting on a shelf is pretty high. They send me a text message when it is in and I either go and get it or have it posted out

    They have excellent staff and catalogues etc. and the stuff is only a day or so away - so I have access to what ever is in those lists instead of being limited to what is on the shelf.

    They do carry a very big range of the normal "quick-moving" tools and "consumable" items as they are geared toward the "trade" and not so much to "retail".

    They carry a lot of "hand" tools and the like but no "machine" tools - other than say drills and welders etc. - as we know it here.

    I suggest that you talk to them in store and have a look at their "trade" catalogues.

    They are not "cheap" but the service, staff and the stuff they stock as well as their warranty is really good.

    I have a "Trade" account there - and I use it.

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkA
    replied
    Thanks

    Thanks for that OT,

    We have a Total Tools here, I'll have to call in and check out their wheels. From memory their selection is pretty limited. Also been checking out some diamond wheels on ebay.

    I have a copy of that book, started flicking through the grinding sections last night. Thanks for the scans.

    I'll let you know how I get on once the grinder arrives and I've had a chance to "work" with it.

    Regards
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Heads-up

    Hi Mark.

    You will have no problems using a T&C grinder as a surface grinder - but you will need a magnetic chuck to suit.

    I get my wheels from Total Tools in Braeside - near Mordialloc, Melbourne. All are Norton/Saint-Gobain which are premium products with a premium price - but well worth it.

    Many/most wheels now have a 32mm bore instead of the older/USA-type 1 1/4" (31.75mm) bore. If your spindle has a 1 1/4" (31.75mm) spindle spigot and you get a 32mm bore just use a strip of hardened brass 0.005"/0.125mm shim as a sleeve - works fine.

    I'd suggest a 7"/180mm diameter x 1/2" (12.7mm) "medium-coarse" aluminium wheel as it won't need balancing (no balancing hubs on T&C grinders anyway - mostly), it dresses up nicely, removes most material with out-over-heating or "clogging-up" and gives a quite passable finish as well. Cost is quite good.

    Read this lot as it will be a good "intro" and "heads-up":
    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels1.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...g_wheels1A.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels2.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels3.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels4.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels5.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels6.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels7.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng_wheels8.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkA
    replied
    Wheel supplier?

    Oldtiffie,


    You mentioned using aluminium oxide, CBN, or diamond as appropriate. Where do you get your wheels to suit the H&F T&C grinder from?

    Also, if I wanted to use my T&C grinder for a little surface grinding, what wheel would best suit that? Most surface grinding would be on mild steel, nothing too hard, I don't think.

    That said, I don't have the machine yet, who knows what I'll come up with once it arrives

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    What a grind(er)

    Originally posted by .RC.
    I find 0.2mm is a bit too much for my liking....Any tool placed up to it freehand jumps all over the place....

    pic of the wheel, it has about 12mm of diamond left to wear away on it... It is 6" in diameter

    Thanks Ringer.

    A previous post of yours prompted me to recall that you have a KO Lee T&C grinder - similar to my other T&C grinder (a KOL clone from H&F):



    My other T&C grinder that I referred to earlier (also from H&F) is in the back-ground.

    That T&C grinder you have works very well indeed. I particularly like the fine worm and wheel drive for moving the column left-right and the up-down tilt of the grinding head.

    The wheel adaptor is fixed to the motor spindle end as you say.

    You need to see if the diamond face is out or whether the cup has been damaged or distorted. My guess is that the wheel adaptor is OK but it needs checking as well.

    Originally posted by luthor
    I have the same wheel RC and have been using it on and off for more than 15 years now with still lots of life left in it. They will not grind steel so if you are going to be grinding lathe tools with tungsten carbide welded onto a steel shank you will have to relieve the steel under the insert to a steeper angle before actually trying to grind the carbide. Don't worry about the runout, it will dress itself true.
    I agree with Luthor.

    I grind the tool steel shanks free-hand on the pedestal grinder but if it needs to be done on the T&C grinder I use aluminium oxide or CBN and use diamond for the TC although CBN works well enough for "touching-up" TC.

    I seem to recall that you have one of these fittings:


    Use it to grind your tools - beats "off-hand" grinding hands down" - or better yet adapt it for a "tool-post" like this - even better:


    Use as coarse a wheel as you can to minimise over-heating and to maximise material removal. Use a "spring cut" to finish off - follow up with a hand hone stick.

    I "hollow grind" all faces where I can as it makes it a lot easier with the hand hone - especially on the machine - as it minimises the times needed to do a hand "touch-up" on the lathe or mill etc.

    Wear a face mask - even a cheap one - to keep from breathing in grinding dust - especially TC.

    There are many occasions with T&C grinding where guards have to be removed and so dust etc. is not localised.

    My T&C grinder similar to yours has a 1 1/4" (31.75mm) spigot as well but I just fit a strip of 0.005" (0.125mm) hard brass shim as a sleeve to pack it out for using the new(er) 32mm (~ 1.260") bored wheels.

    If I also recall correctly, you have this book from H&F:
    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=L341

    If you have it - use it. It is the best $70+ you will ever spend for machining and shop practice - grinding generally and T&C grinding in particular.

    Leave a comment:


  • luthor
    replied
    I have the same wheel RC and have been using it on and off for more than 15 years now with still lots of life left in it. They will not grind steel so if you are going to be grinding lathe tools with tungsten carbide welded onto a steel shank you will have to relieve the steel under the insert to a steeper angle before actually trying to grind the carbide. Don't worry about the runout, it will dress itself true.

    Leave a comment:


  • .RC.
    replied
    I find 0.2mm is a bit too much for my liking....Any tool placed up to it freehand jumps all over the place....

    pic of the wheel, it has about 12mm of diamond left to wear away on it... It is 6" in diameter

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    No big deal.

    0.20mm ~ 0.008" is no big dealer or "killer" either although and "side-to-side wobble" may be a PITA.

    As it is a "pre-loved"?? wheel, it needs to be checked too as the problem may well be mostly or entirely in or with the wheel. I will cover that tomorrow as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • luthor
    replied
    Yes, the decimal point location is rather important.

    Leave a comment:


  • .RC.
    replied
    Originally posted by luthor
    That's quite good enough for a diamond wheel RC, are you grinding tungsten carbide?
    Sorry that should be 0.2mm

    Yes I am grinding tungsten carbide, mostly lathe tools..... Hope to get some carbide end mills in the future.. Was looking at seeing if there are any on US ebay that are just blunt...

    The wheel has plenty of meat left on it... It is an AU made one I got it years ago... Must have nearly 1/2" or more diamond left on it... It is a cup wheel..

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    No wurries

    Originally posted by luthor
    That's quite good enough for a diamond wheel RC, are you grinding tungsten carbide?
    I agree with you Luthor.

    0.02mm ~ 0.0008" (8 "tenths") is of no concern at all.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Bump?

    Originally posted by .RC.
    My grinder is different to your Tiffie, it has no separate hubs to mount the wheels to, just a 31.75mm spigot on the end of the motor which is concentric to within 0.0003" according to my Tesa 0.0001 dial indicator.

    The diamond wheel is out by 0.02mm..
    Thanks Ringer.

    I will deal with that later as I ran out of time for the pics etc today.

    I think I can solve your problem easily enough on your machine.

    The pics may help others who have the current H&F T&C grinder.

    I will do it all tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:

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