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OT Battery Connections That Corrode

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  • #31
    Originally posted by gary350
    ....... Did anyone every wonder why all the factories moved to China.
    Yeah so they can put two kids on a rice mat, work em back to back twelve hour shifts, then give each of em' a bowl of sand and a fish head to eat and fifteen cents for their trouble for the day. Oh yeah and when they are finished dumping on the workers they are more than welcome to dump their toxic sh!t on mother nature as well.

    Unions have their issues...I've been there, but don't think the employers in China or here for that matter are standing in line to give out bonuses without a little persuasion. The only thing that makes a strong union is a poor employer. Not that poor employees should should be able to use a union as a crutch either, way too much of that goes on as well. As usual, somewhere in the middle of the argument lies the truth.

    Yeah it's great not having any guidelines. Don't worry it'll all be a level playing field soon.

    And now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

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    • #32
      A last question. Would that stuff "NOLOX" work? I hope I spelled it right, it's the goop you squeeze into making up aluminum wire connections. Maybe not as messy as grease.

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      • #33
        Noalox contains 20% zinc dust. It works the same way that the anti corrosion systems on a boat work. Same as galvanized metal and the same as zinc loaded paint. When zinc is paired up with most other metals the zinc will corrode in preference to the other metal. It acts as a sacrificial anode.
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Evan
          ............ It is due to stray currents, .
          That is precisely what is to be expected if stray currents are traveling between the battery posts along the top surface of the battery. ........ Sombody wondered why it affects the positive terminal only. That is because the positive terminal is the ion doner. The negative terminal is the acceptor for the ions so it is being plated instead of deplated (depleted?).
          ..
          Evan, that makes perfect sense.
          I always thought it was a gas based corriosion situation, but coupled with the hot water comments made earlier, the picture is clear.
          Thanks
          Rich

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Evan
            We are talking about why the battery terminal corrode (or don't corrode). The steel bit in that picture are rusty. That has nothing to do with the usual battery terminal corrosion. It is due to stray currents, not unions.



            That is precisely what is to be expected if stray currents are traveling between the battery posts along the top surface of the battery. It isn't limited to that though. Any current that must pass through the terminals regardless of which way it goes will produce galvanic corrosion. Sombody wondered why it affects the positive terminal only. That is because the positive terminal is the ion doner. The negative terminal is the acceptor for the ions so it is being plated instead of deplated (depleted?).

            This same concept is used in active anticorrosion systems on metal hulled boats, especially aluminum hulls in salt water. Using a trickle current from the engine battery the negative is connected to the hull and the positive is connected to a series of insulated zinc blocks below the water line. By using battery voltage to power the system the hull is forced to be more negative than any other material on the boat, especially the zinc blocks. The active system overcomes passivation that is produced when a coating of zinc oxide builds up on the zinc anodes.

            BTW, my Land Rover has a 90 amp alternator that I rewired for positive ground.
            Evan, I am pretty familiar with impressed current systems, and sacrificial anodes, I worked as a corrosion tech for about 3 yrs. taking care of a big pipeline gathering system. I did ask in a previous question why the neg post on a Ford vehicle I once owned would corrode and the positive post did not. Never could get anyone to explain that to me. It was a 95 model and wired no different than millions of others on the road.
            James

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            • #36
              The most likely explanation is a poor connection in the negative terminal connector. That effectively moves the positive connection to that point since that will then be where the greatest voltage drop will be across dissimilar metals.
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              • #37
                Vasaline it down whenever you pop the hood. The terminals will look new for as long as you do. If you are shopping for a quality battery, I use Concorde AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. They are totally sealed, as in you can mount them upside down, with no loose electrolite, you can cut a hole in the case and nothing will leak out. I do a lot of solar stuff and thats how I found them, originally made for aircraft use, where acid fumes could be VERY bad.
                James Kilroy

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                • #38
                  I use electrolytic grease or the red stuff from the little spray bottle, which ever I can find on hand at the moment. Buy one can of each these they last nearly a lifetime. May have to try never seize....have a bottle of this as well - somewhere......

                  I have cleaned terminals with that circuit board cleaner spray on cleaner as well. Have a few cans of that on hand, but the life span of that on a shelf is probably quite a bit less, though mine is at about five years.....

                  Easy, quick, cheap application, money and effort saved in the long run.

                  I Use the electrolytic grease for trailer hitch 4 way light connects to prevent corrosion from our wonderfully salt and brined roads as well.
                  Last edited by spope14; 12-05-2010, 10:40 AM.
                  CCBW, MAH

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                  • #39
                    One of the problems I see in figuring out the cause of this problem is that it sometimes takes a long time for a battery terminal to corrode. For example, I may have to clean a terminal once every two years. It makes comparisons difficult.

                    I reckon my batteries get a sort of sheen or film (acid?) over their plastic top surface after a year or two of use, not sure where it comes from, but suspect from being used, charged etc. I know when your charging rate is not correct you can get fuming, even enough to damage paint nearby! One of my batteries (Hella) has a vent tube fitted which allows you to pipe it clear of any panels etc.
                    Last edited by Peter S; 12-05-2010, 09:05 PM.

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                    • #40
                      I haven't followed this thread in a while now, but just to throw in an idea- why not wax and polish the top surface of a battery- it would tend to make any moisture bead up and not form a conductive path across it. Won't help with corrosion inside a terminal, but it sure could help the general cleanliness of the battery. Just a thought-
                      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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