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Moving holes by 1/2 dia in a flange.

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  • #16
    Yep I agree with all that.

    Lannies are still popular in the south of england for farming, they have a PTO shaft at the back to turn farm plant.

    Cept for one thing, the heater works?, it'll be the first one that does, obviously not the round smiths type.
    The engine must be sound if it'll go without glow plugs, I've worked on similar engines but marinised and only a couple would go without heat even in summer.

    I see your in Cariboo Canada, you see these trucks all over, lannie reckon a third of the population saw a landy as their first motor vehicle sighting.
    Last edited by dr pepper; 12-08-2010, 05:17 PM.
    Build it, bodge it, but dont buy it.


    • #17
      I think I would use a pipe tap on the original hole and use a steel pipe plug and tighten at tight as I could with locktite. Shouldn't need to weld. peter
      The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.


      • #18
        Originally posted by dr pepper
        Cept for one thing, the heater works?, it'll be the first one that does, obviously not the round smiths type.

        Please dont use words like landrover, heater & work in the same paragraph the usual, pick 2 out of 3 LOL


        • #19

          Originally posted by dr pepper
          I am converting my classic land rover to discovery axles, for several reasons, one of which a more suitable diff ratio for the range rover engine.
          This requires 'moving' the holes in the flanges on the ends of the axle by 8 degrees.
          This means that the holes are moved around so that the new hole is 1/2 in new metal and 1/2 in the original hole.
          I've machined up jig plates to drill the holes with.
          I started out by filling up the old holes with mild steel allthread bar, welded up at the back, I did this as drilling/tapping weld is not something I wanted to do which would be the case if I just fully welded up the old holes.
          Problem is tapping 1/2 allthread and 1/2 steel is very tricky I think the allthread bar twists a little from front to rear as I turn the tap gripping it, I did one side but now its time for the other side.
          Are there any little tricks I can do to make this easier, or shall I just tackle the job the same as the previous side.
          I didnt want to remove or make new flanges as I dont have the measuring facilities or equipment to postion the flanges square, so re-drilling is the only option.

          Hi Dr P.

          I've waited to see what came up, but as it has slowed a bit I thought I'd make a suggestion.

          If it were me I'd have milled out what was required so as to leave a machined "kidney" shape in all of the holes.

          I'd have made/turned cylinders the same size as the holes and just a bit shorter than the flange width. I'd have milled flats on those cylinders until they just fitted between the bolts and the "kidney". I'd have used the "dips/hollows" where the bolts and the cylinders with the flat faces meet, and lightly tack-weld them together.

          The bolts and cylinders are now "captive" in the kidneys.

          I'd make three substantial,"kidney-shaped" "washers" (flat) and as there seems to be 7 holes I'd make three "kidney washers" - 1 to span 3 holes and 2 each to span 2 holes.

          There would be no need to have any welding on the flange/s at all.


          • #20
            I modified the heater on mine slightly. After much searching when I first bought it (2 for $900, made one good one from the pair), I was forced to conclude that the primary fault with the heater system was that it was missing an air inlet. I know that sounds a bit ridiculous but I can only surmise that it may have been designed by a relative of Laird Lucas.

            I remedied that by providing someplace for air to actually enter the system in the form of a hole in the side of the right front wing and a small hose to the fan housing. It appears that the original design circulated air from the blower to the heater core and back without actually admitting any to the cab.
            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


            • #21
              Wow what a project, So I take it whatever bolts to the flange (bearing housing and brake backing plate ?) could not have been thrown on an RT table and have elongated slots put in for rotating?

              The binding your experiencing might also be due to the variation between the soft gummy all-thread and the better flange material -- this will try to cock the tap causing a bind, what are you using for tap alignment - your drilling jig plate?

              Anyways - I see your dilemma but it's really hard to make a comment without seeing all the other components --- your getting it done and that's all that matters and its going to be plenty strong enough, one last question --- why using a tap at all? that flange looks to have boo-koo space on the backside so why not just drill and run a bolt through with a nut and heavy washer on the backside?
              the internal flange will provide the proper sealing surface with a gasket no?


              • #22
                I am not sure exactly what this part is, is it the end of the axle tube onto which bolts the spherical steering swivel joint fandangle?

                My concern would be that the trouble you are having getting a good taped hole will result in a thread that will not retain the bolt reliably.

                If you made the holes even bigger and put in 'helicoil'(?) inserts at least your bolts would have a good thread to lock with.