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I bought a southbend!!!

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  • #16
    Im going to need to learn the tricks of removing the spindle soon, im looking to get a new belt pulley, since the one I got now as you can see is rusty and has a chipped tooth.
    Also, I used a spreadsheet some one made to predict the manufacturing date on my lathe. This lathe apparently was made between february and march of 1941.
    Yes, the chuck looks to be nice, its a 6" Union. However I do not have any outside jaws for it, and no key, tis a problem if I want to finish my wheels on this thing with that chuck.
    Thanks for the comments. Evan, as you can see in the pic, it has a rather small gear on the leadscrew, I'd like to get the biggest one for the fine feed. I guess I will need to find a chart of all the gears and combinations. I atleast have 3 of them.
    I guess my lathe bed is the shortest one southbend made. Perhaps that accounts for it not being warn out. It's plenty long for me though, I dont see myself turning long shafts to build any steam locomotives.


    • #17

      Keep track of the shims and the orientation when you remove the spindle. If you need parts see this guy (not a relative).

      [This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-14-2003).]
      Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


      • #18
        for the chucks on my old SB, a 1/4" and a 3/8" ratchet fit the chuck tightening holes (two different size chucks of course). give it a shot and see if they fit.

        and that IS a nice looking machine!

        andy b.
        The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining


        • #19
          Great idea Andy, I will try that.
          I contacted a chuck house to see if they have any outside jaws for my union chuck. Hopefully if they do, they wont be too expensive.


          • #20
            She's a beauty, Bill, and so YOUNG! Be gentle...
            I'm here hoping to advancify my smartitude.


            • #21
              Hi Bill,

              I wouldn't worry at all about the rust on the spindle pulley. Once you get it running you'll apply a little emory paper and that will just be a memory. The chipped tooth might be annoying but it may or may not affect its operation. Of course you will only use that when you use the back gears. Probably someone used a prybar to hold the spindle when they were removing the chuck. I really like these old SB9 lathes. Be careful about these lathes. They often lead you to buy shapers and milling machines!
              Be sure and look at that site Evan posted. You could get the quick change gearbox and leadscrew and turn your model C to an A. The bed length might cause you to extend the right mount, but you could do that and replace the Bull Gear, and still have spent less that I did in buying my SB9 model A.

              [This message has been edited by SJorgensen (edited 12-14-2003).]


              • #22
                I cleaned my lathe off a little bit more and found that there were more scrape marks beneath the crud However, the saddle/apron is another story.
                The cross slide is well warned, has a groove from the gibs, must of been used a lot. Im thinking this lathe might of been parted together. In any case, I need new half nuts for the lead screw, and im not sure how the gibs are setup on the saddle.
                The apron side has nothing to hold it to the bed ways except for gravity, and the other side does have tiling bar that keeps that side on, im going to make a new topic and post pics.

                [This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-14-2003).]


                • #23
                  Congratulations!!! Thats a lathe you can use and love for the rest of your life! If you are going to go with 3-C collets, I've got an extra collet gizmo,(the piece that goes into the spindle and holds the collet), You can have for the cost of postage.

                  Enjoy and good luck!


                  • #24
                    Bill, a sugestion for belting is to use a serpinetine and run it on back side with V grooves up...1 1/8 serpinetine belts have many lenghts and all you have to do to use it is cut off 1 V



                    • #25
                      tell you right now, My biggest problem is finding new Half nuts for my leadscrew.
                      I would rebuild them if I had another decent lathe on hand. I just got sniped on Ebay on a pair of used ones. I refuse to be put in such a situation as Ebay, not good for buyers.

                      I would have to bore out the stripped threads on the old half nuts on my Amazing, Unbelievable, super duper, Bending flexing Chinese 7x14 wonder of a boat anchor, and make a bronze bushing, thread it internally on the same boat anchor, then jbweld it onto the bored out half nuts and then take a big slitting saw to cut them apart on my micro mill...
                      Ah gee, I guess I gotta go look in the classifeds for some southbend parts.


                      • #26
                        Alcova, I like the way you think, HMS50, thank you for the offer, I may take you up on it unless some one needs that part more than I do, I had no plans of using 3c collets.


                        • #27

                          I think I'm the guy who "sniped" those half nuts. Sorry about that!! I was going to make them but the used ones on Ebay look pretty good and the price was right. I just bought a SB 9" myself.. it's in good shape. It came with a complete set of change gears but no thread dial. Good thing Machinst's Workshop had an article on making one.

                          If I can be of any assistance don't hesitate to ask. I have a nice full sized chart for setting up the change gears.. if you want one let me know.. a peace offering.



                          • #28
                            AH it was you who sniped me, lol, but to be fair, I was about 3rd in line. I only hope no one snipes me on that cone pulley I am bidding, or I will flip out. Hey, if you have the List of all the change gears, stud gears, etc that would be a complete set, email me the list, that will bring peace
                            Oh, and if you have that chart to setup the change gears on a digital format, such as a pdf, send that too. If not, no problem.

                            [This message has been edited by BillH (edited 12-15-2003).]


                            • #29
                              While they may be expensive, parts are available from Leblond for Southbend lathes.
                              I got a new compound nut for a heavy 10, and it really improved the play in the compound. Old one looked like sharp "V" threads, worn that way from Acme.


                              • #30

                                FYI - Person on eBay selling plans and the gear to make your own SB Thread Dial.