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  • What to charge for this machining job?

    A fellow asked me to do a little machining project for him. Cut 50 - 1" "biscuits" from 3" round A36, Drill a 7/8" hole in the center and thread to 1"-8tpi.

    Then he wants me to drill a .2770 hole 3/4" deep and thread to 5/16"-18tpi in one end of a 6" by 1" rod threaded to 1'-8TPI (X50). The tolerances on this are pretty loose as they are height adjusters for metal building columns.

    Since he is providing all the materials, I thought I would slice off the 50 biscuits in the band saw (I have a little 4X6 Clark) then chuck them in the lathe, face both ends, then drill the 7/8" hole and single point the 8tpi threads. The lathe is a 1340.

    Then I would chuck the threaded rod in a collet on the lathe and bore the .277X3/4" hole and then hand tap the 5/16X18tpi thread. I would use the lathe to start the tap straight. These rods are medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered as in a grade 5 bolt.

    The question is,,,, what would be a fair price for this work? Again, he is going to deliver the materials to my shop.

    What say you gentlemen?

    Tim

  • #2
    Originally posted by tmc_31
    A fellow asked me to do a little machining project for him. Cut 50 - 1" "biscuits" from 3" round A36, Drill a 7/8" hole in the center and thread to 1"-8tpi.

    Then he wants me to drill a .2770 hole 3/4" deep and thread to 5/16"-18tpi in one end of a 6" by 1" rod threaded to 1'-8TPI (X50). The tolerances on this are pretty loose as they are height adjusters for metal building columns.

    Since he is providing all the materials, I thought I would slice off the 50 biscuits in the band saw (I have a little 4X6 Clark) then chuck them in the lathe, face both ends, then drill the 7/8" hole and single point the 8tpi threads. The lathe is a 1340.

    Then I would chuck the threaded rod in a collet on the lathe and bore the .277X3/4" hole and then hand tap the 5/16X18tpi thread. I would use the lathe to start the tap straight. These rods are medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered as in a grade 5 bolt.

    The question is,,,, what would be a fair price for this work? Again, he is going to deliver the materials to my shop.

    What say you gentlemen?

    Tim
    I would say you have 1 hour in bandsaw cutting, if you can cut off of 2 rods.

    7.5 hours in facing and threading. You will start off slow and build speed to average 10 minutes per piece. I would thread after facing the second side.

    That totals 8.5 hours @ $75.00 per hour = $637.00. Have him supply a good machining material. If he supplies you with a tough material the price goes up.

    At this price I would include the cost of the wear and tear on the taps.

    Just my thought,
    Andy

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    • #3
      Thanks Andy,

      My bandsaw is not that good, but who knows, maybe it will work better with a new blade!!

      Tim

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      • #4
        All those 1" biscuits with the hole in the center sounds like something for a plasma cutter and 1" plate followed by a punch operation on an ironworker.

        Is there anyone around you could farm the work out to?
        Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by AEP
          That totals 8.5 hours @ $75.00 per hour = $637.00. Have him supply a good machining material. If he supplies you with a tough material the price goes up.

          At this price I would include the cost of the wear and tear on the taps.
          What! even BBB machine doesn't charge 75.00 an hour, but I live in West Virginia I guess we just aint that sophisticated! Hourly is a pain, I charge by the lot/job. Granted I know the cost of everything as far as consumables, but.... Jeesh 75.00 an hour?

          Maybe some one will take it at that price....but I would have one less customer if I even though about that per hour, 25.00 to 30.00 maybe...but 75!!!!
          WOW.
          I got Nuthin' to sell, Got no fancy machines, just an old G4015 (can't even afford the "Z" at the end) and a willingness to learn and have some fun!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by AEP

            That totals 8.5 hours @ $75.00 per hour = $637.00. Have him supply a good machining material. If he supplies you with a tough material the price goes up.

            At this price I would include the cost of the wear and tear on the taps.

            Just my thought,
            Andy
            Tell me why the customer should pay full commercial rates to someone who has to knife and fork it because they don't have the equipment to do it in a reasonable time frame ?

            There is a reason that commercial shop charge $75 per hour and that's because they have bought machines than can cut 30 blanks in a short while, lathes that can punch that 7/8" drill thru in one pass and power tap them.
            .

            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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            • #7
              Totally agree with SJ an Gently --- 75 an hour is out of control, keep in mind that your not the only one with some simple machines and there's guys out there that would do that job for a fraction of the cost,


              Whats it worth for you to have some independent work in your shop on your own time instead of doing nothing but maybe thinking about a tight economy,
              Then keep in mind all the other little shops where he can go and what some of them might charge,,,
              Talk about it in detail with him ahead of time --- The goal? come up with a price that makes you both happy and if it goes a little easier than expected cut him a little slack on the agreement ------ that goes a long way for repeat business...

              SJ's right on the money - you can't charge a premium if your not set up for total production so hourly rate is unfair to the customer, doesn't matter how hard your working if your carving the part out with a pocket knife...

              There's nothing worse than staring at all your idle equipment because youv priced yourself out of the running... even worse than working for peanuts...

              Comment


              • #8
                You don't have to single point the threads. Sunday I power tapped some 1"-8 stainless 2" deep on my lathe (clausing 5914). Your 1340 should be able to handle it - at least try - it will certainly be faster.

                BTW, the CNC operators where I work could program the job in 5 minutes and the machine would make all 50 pieces in less than an hour.

                You may want to ask the guy is he quoted fro a shop, and then see if you want to undercut that rate.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You could always get out all the gear you need and have everything set up like you would for doing a production job as well as some scrap, then make one of each part and see how long it will takes you.
                  At least that would give you an idea of how long it will take and you will be set up ready to go if he accepts your price.
                  With the time for cutting stock, I usually cut one, then reload it while I go working on the lathe doing the first part, that way their is no time for cutting other than walking over to reload it.
                  Boomer has some really good advice above, so their is no use me repeating it.

                  Dave

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hmmmm

                    I'm surprised the OP had not worked out a schedule of rates/costs as an indicative cost-guide for quoting before he even took a job on.

                    I wonder if the potential customer was "bid-shopping" and already had competitive quotes from other commercial or "hobby" operators?

                    If he is a "business" and is registered for tax purposes he is going to claim your costs in his Tax Return.

                    Then he wants me to drill a .2770 hole 3/4" deep and thread to 5/16"-18tpi in one end of a 6" by 1" rod threaded to 1'-8TPI (X50). The tolerances on this are pretty loose as they are height adjusters for metal building columns.
                    If that job was in OZ those adjusters would have to be specified and/or designed by a Registered insured professional Structural, Mechanical or Civil Engineer as they seem to be structural elements.

                    I agree with John Stevenson and A.K. Boomer

                    I am not in any position to tell or advise you what to do nor what not to do.

                    Tread your own path.
                    Last edited by oldtiffie; 12-22-2010, 06:06 AM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      he cant afford you..no one can if you are doing it the way you want to do it.Sorry but you arent equipped to do this job competitively.

                      I would put a length of bar in lathe. Steady if you have one then face, drill, chamferand tap hole then part in lathe.probably10-15 min each for larger parts. same steps with small parts. You dont bore for a taped hole like that and it would take forever single pointing.


                      I would guess the guy thinks since you have a machine you would be thrilled to make him parts CHEAP..
                      Last edited by j king; 12-22-2010, 06:47 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by John Stevenson
                        Tell me why the customer should pay full commercial rates to someone who has to knife and fork it because they don't have the equipment to do it in a reasonable time frame ?

                        There is a reason that commercial shop charge $75 per hour and that's because they have bought machines than can cut 30 blanks in a short while, lathes that can punch that 7/8" drill thru in one pass and power tap them.
                        I love those phrases you come up with!

                        I wouldn't take on a job like that because my tools aren't up to the task. I might make 1 though, out of Aluminum, so he could check out the fit before going to a production shop. I'm not a machinist, I just use the tools to facilitate building prototypes, jigs and fixtures.
                        Seems everything I do takes forever.
                        Good thing it's fun.
                        Mike

                        My Dad always said, "If you want people to do things for you on the farm, you have to buy a machine they can sit on that does most of the work."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          move to canda youll be paying the pro shops alot more then 75.00 per hour for that job,

                          time is money,true but ware and tear on the tools, cost money, time is money hydro cost money, if you have to heat the shop thats money, plus you gota make a profit, on top of all that even as a homeshop

                          i work at home my self yes i live in canada ,

                          if people dont like my prices i tell them goto a pro shop pay double or more, plus plus plus,

                          they do and then they come back and i do the job

                          my shop rate for a job like this would be the same 75.00 per hour

                          tools time hydro heat skills are NOT FREE
                          i also do small engine repair and am cheaper then the pro shops and i might add better.
                          custom panting body work, bicycle repair iam 3 times cheaper for computer repair then any shop any where ,sandlbasting,and this spring ill be offering a new skill level in painting offering airbrushing.plus light to medium welding, as welll as repairing electronics equipment.. i also help friends to house renos..

                          now you still want to bitch about 75.00 and hour..iam thinking not

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                          • #14
                            $$$$

                            Sorry but I got all I can do just to get $20 hr.stock provided, and that also
                            includes welding and set up. Sometimes a case of beer will do just fine.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sawing them off and facing them is the only way you can do it with your lathe. You need to cut 3 pieces then start the machine work as the next part is being cut off.

                              You need to face both sides of each part and then drill and power tap the 1-8 thread. You can power tap it by using a T handle tap wrench with a live or dead center in the end of the tap at your slowest speed.

                              Between the facing of the part and drilling and threading the saw should have cut another part and stopped. Before you tap the part set up another cut.

                              If you want to know how long it will take YOU to do the job use some scrap and make two parts and time it. Hardly anyone works at the same speed so how fast I can do it is not relative to how fast you will do it.

                              The more of them you make the faster you should be getting.

                              Your a home shop so I don't think you should charge over $30 per hour and if he is a business you will have to turn the job in on your taxes as extra income. You don't have to use a business name, it's just extra income on the tax form. Don't give anyone a business name, just use your name on an invoice to him. If he pays with a check, which he will, and it has your business name on it the bank will not deposit in your personal account, you will need a business account and you DON'T want that.
                              Last edited by Carld; 12-22-2010, 08:16 AM.
                              It's only ink and paper

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