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Rusted up chuck thread

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  • Rusted up chuck thread

    I bought a BS-2 dividing head on ebay the other day. The seller didn't quite manage a full disclosure, as when I got it I discovered bits missing, broken, corrosion and worse of all, the chuck seems to be rusted onto the spindle.
    At the moment I'm applying penetrating oil in the hope that it will loosen things up. If that doesn't work I may have to attack the backing plate with a cut off wheel - I'd prefer not to as if I can get it off I can probably re-use it once it is cleaned up.
    Before I do that, has anyone any favorite methods for loosening large rusty bits? Heat is out as I don't want to chance cooking the spindle bearings.

    ( Before anyone suggests leaving everything as it is, I want to be able to remove the chuck so it's easier to lift around, as well as swap between lathe & mill - the usual sort of thing)

    Michael

  • #2
    ATF/acetone is the best antisiezing agent in equal parts with time and patience.......light vibration might also work like an engraver tightened in the jaws........
    Opportunity knocks once, temptation leans on the doorbell.....

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    • #3
      Originally posted by hardtail
      ATF/acetone is the best antisiezing agent in equal parts with time and patience.......light vibration might also work like an engraver tightened in the jaws........

      I agree. Someone sent me an email a while back which had shown me a comparison of multiple agents and used the simple rusted bolt and torque applied to each agent technique and the ATF/Acetone mixture was the best.
      "To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk" Thomas Edison

      Better to have tools you don't need than to need tools you don't have

      73's KB3BFR

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      • #4
        Hardtail is right!

        A coupleof years ago I went thru this too, used light tapping (not hard enough to leave marks) om the collar perimiter with torque applied.

        Several sessions of soaking and tapping over a couple of days -- may take longer for the anti sieze to work.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by hardtail
          ATF/acetone is the best antisiezing agent in equal parts with time and patience.......light vibration might also work like an engraver tightened in the jaws........
          Preposterous. Why would ATF be better than any other oil? Because it has a red dye in it?
          Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh the magic of acetone. next we can hear how a couple ouces will give a dramatic increase in fuel economy.

          Are we really to believe that the folks that make Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc are too dumb to stumble onto this?

          As I recall this reported in the magazine and the "test" did not even involved threaded fasteners.

          I you can't warm up this backplate without hurting bearings, then truly you should play with fire.

          Soak it with Kroil, warm it up til it's just to warm to hold and smack it. Should see some movement on the first lick

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          • #6
            I couldn't get the ATF to mix with the acetone. What did I do wrong?
            Byron Boucher
            Burnet, TX

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            • #7
              I know what acetone is, but what is this ATF everyone is talking about?
              I'm an abstract poet and I didn't even think I was.

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              • #8
                ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid. Automotive automatic transmissions use it.

                I have used ATF and Kroil. I hate to admit it but I am ashamed that I paid for the Kroil. Yea, it works but I found the same results so far with the ATF and light heat on the part.

                rock~
                Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.

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                • #9
                  I'm kinda surprised no one has mentioned flat Coke or Pepsi. Both contain low amounts of phosphoric acid (one slightly more than the other) which makes it a good rusty thread penetrate. Sit the head so the soda can work its way into the threads and apply it for two or three days to hopefully achieve the desired result.

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                  • #10
                    I couldn't get the ATF to mix with the acetone. What did I do wrong?
                    Nothing. They don't mix.

                    The whole 'witch's brew' of acetone and ATF is interesting. Some swear by it. It might have worked for me, or it might have been that 4' 2x4 and sledgehammer I was using. I was close to being unable to remove my backplate, so perhaps it did help. It's impossible to know.

                    I have also heard to the 'witch's brew' tests were done with threaded fasteners, but that it had different ingredients, one of the original ingredients having since been banned. I don't know what it is.

                    In the various tests, the humble Liquid Wrench came off very well.

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                    • #11
                      The reason a good smack to the rusted part is so effective is that it creates microscopic fractures in the bond between the rusted part and the rust. These microscopic fractures let the penetrate work its way inside to do its magic, instead of just sitting on the surface.

                      I usually use a punch and a hammer against strategic places to create the most fractures without damaging the part. Your patience is your friend.

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                      • #12
                        Why not try mixing Automatic Transmission Fluid, Acetone, AND Coke??

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by KiddZimaHater
                          Why not try mixing Automatic Transmission Fluid, Acetone, AND Coke??
                          Or use a mix of ATF and Acetone then drink the Coke while you're waiting.

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                          • #14
                            I've tried the ATF/acetone thing, PB Blaster, Wd-40, various witches brews, et al. In my experience Kroil beats them all hands down.

                            Numerous applications, tapping with a deadblow, and possibly heat are all your friends.

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                            • #15
                              Right Spandau. There is a reason places like power plants and such buy Kroil by the case and sometimes, drum. It works. It passes their haz mat standards and is safe, and it works.

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