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Drip Oiler---with a secret

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  • Ryobiguy
    replied
    Originally posted by brian Rupnow
    ---Guys. every design is a prototype. Feel free to make any mods you see necessary.---Brian
    Something like that would make a good philosophy, or perhaps at least a good signature quote.

    -Matt

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  • Black_Moons
    replied
    May the knurl be with you.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Okay--House is cleaned up, mommy's gone out to buy a turkey, and I get to finish my oiler top plugs. I'm done!!! Tops are made from mild steel heated cherry red and dropped into some motor oil for "instant blackening". I love my cheap BusyBee knurling tool!!

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  • Liger Zero
    replied
    Originally posted by brian Rupnow
    On a side note, my old built in vacuum wasn't really doing its thing, so last month I sprung for one of those Dyson "ball" vacuums. Man, what a tremendous suckability those things have. First time I used it on our carpets I was horrified at how damn much dirt I'd been living in and wasn't aware of it.
    I second the Dyson vac. It really helps keep the cat hair under control.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    I got up early this morning amd made up a couple of knurled "handles" that are threaded and loctited onto my needle-screws. Looks a lot better and saves hunting for an allen wrench each time I want to open or close them. I will probably do something "fancy" for the top filler screws, just because I can. My good wife has just came downstairs and made noises about vacuuming and cleaning house for Christmas, so I think machining is over untill after Christmas. My wife has a slightly bad back, so I have the vacuuming duties.---On a side note, my old built in vacuum wasn't really doing its thing, so last month I sprung for one of those Dyson "ball" vacuums. Man, what a tremendous suckability those things have. First time I used it on our carpets I was horrified at how damn much dirt I'd been living in and wasn't aware of it.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdunmyer
    replied
    Here's a selection of oilers that Debolt sells: http://www.deboltmachine.com/id6.html

    We use the ones that are closed on the top, there is NO air vent. "Somehow" the oil is drawn out and into the bearing; I've noticed that a looser bearing will use more oil than a tightly-fitted one. We used OilLite bearings on our engines, so running out of oil wouldn't be a disaster anyway.

    Note the cylinder lubricators at the top of the page: they have a needle valve to adjust flow and a check valve to prevent combustion pressure from puking all the oil out of the top when the engine fires. If the check valve leaks ever so slightly, the oil will become cloudy from the entrained air. You have to make a mental note as to how far to open the needle valve, and you have to remember to close it when you shut the engine down or the oil drains out rather quickly.

    Brian, your oilers look like they should work well for your application.

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  • Gravy
    replied
    Originally posted by brian Rupnow
    You start the flow of oil by opening the screw 2 full turns. If you don't remember, you have the opportunity to get some machining time in making a new crankshaft---that will stimulate your memory. You stop the flow of oil by turning the screw back in 2 full turns, but if you forget that, the consequences are not so dire.

    How do you allow air into the chamber??? Damned if I know, I never built these before. I would think that with the vibration of the engine, and the fact that you don't torque down the 1/4" shcs., it will pull enough air in around the screw threads. If it doesn't, then drill a 1/32 hole through the filler screw.---Guys. every design is a prototype. Feel free to make any mods you see necessary.---Brian
    If you want to get all fancy about letting air in while blocking debris, you could use a vented shcs and a felt plug in the socket. McMaster can fix you right up!

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Originally posted by Black_Moons
    Two questions:

    One: How do you start/stop the flow of oil? If you use the needle valve, you have to remember how many turns to open it each time for the flow rate required.

    Two: How do you allow air into the chamber to replace the oil as it drips out?

    (These two things could be combined into a single valve at the top)
    You start the flow of oil by opening the screw 2 full turns. If you don't remember, you have the opportunity to get some machining time in making a new crankshaft---that will stimulate your memory. You stop the flow of oil by turning the screw back in 2 full turns, but if you forget that, the consequences are not so dire.

    How do you allow air into the chamber??? Damned if I know, I never built these before. I would think that with the vibration of the engine, and the fact that you don't torque down the 1/4" shcs., it will pull enough air in around the screw threads. If it doesn't, then drill a 1/32 hole through the filler screw.---Guys. every design is a prototype. Feel free to make any mods you see necessary.---Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    Now, ain't that as cute as a bugs ear!!! I didn't have any short 1/4" shcs available, but will shorten a couple of long ones tomorrow. The needle valves work, tested by the old "blow your guts out method" while opening and closing the shcs that is now a needle. JPeter---I will assume that was a serious question.---No, its not important to see it dripping, in fact you can't. Those clear tubes are reservoirs to hold the oil while the engine is running.---You can see when the oil is running low and add more through the hole in the top where the 1/4" shcs goes. They look good on the engine, but time will tell if they are a true advantage, or just something to get bumped and knocked off.

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  • Black_Moons
    replied
    Two questions:

    One: How do you start/stop the flow of oil? If you use the needle valve, you have to remember how many turns to open it each time for the flow rate required.

    Two: How do you allow air into the chamber to replace the oil as it drips out?

    (These two things could be combined into a single valve at the top)

    Leave a comment:


  • macona
    replied
    You might want to put a small air hole down the center of the screw. Also replace the top screw with a brass thumb screw and it might look better.

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  • DannyW
    replied
    Brian,

    I like your fine drawings!
    Thanks for sharing.

    One thing that nags me is an absent small breather hole on top.
    But one that's shielded from debris foul-up.

    Oil out means that air must be able to come in!

    Kind regards,

    Danny

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  • Liger Zero
    replied
    Thank you. I have an application in mind for one.

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    And of course, the needle valve. (I've got to get rid of that box of 100 #2-56 screws somehow!!!!)

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  • brian Rupnow
    replied
    The cap----

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