This is a dis-assembly sequence for my TAPMATIC 50X tapping head. It is a simple process but there are a couple things to pay attention to. The good news is there are no springs or balls that are going to go flying across the shop and land in your swarf bin. There is one hefty snap ring that will bugger up poorly made snap ring pliers.
The first image is the complete unit showing the collet arbor, nut, tap clamp, and torque arm. I've already removed the retaining ring shown in the next image.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02114-800.jpg
This image shows those same parts removed. There is a set screw shown that has a small pip that extends beyond the threads. This is used as a stop to prevent the tap clamp from falling out of the arbor. It does not abut the tap clamp - or anything else. Be sure not to allow the threaded portion of the set screw to extend into the arbor as the clamp can compress the threads, damaging it.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02115-800.jpg
At the opposite end is the pressure adjuster which is restrained from coming off by another wire retainer. Seen here is the thrust bearing inside the adjuster, the clutch pack springs (9 coaxial pairs), and the body with the index dial and three alignment pins for the clutch pack. Note that there is an Allen head screw on the adjuster that is a friction clamp to prevent unwinding. Ensure this is loosened before disassembling. The balls in the carrier are restrained from falling out which is excellent for fumbling guys like me. This bearing requires cleaning and greasing per the manual.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02116-800.jpg
This picture shows all the innards. The spring and nut are removed before removing the clutch pack and planetary drive. It is a collar nut with a slot for a flat screwdriver. Notice the small black key. This tiny thing fits in slots in the outer housing and the outer race of the planetary drive. Don't lose this, and don't forget to re-install it!
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02118-800.jpg
Continued in part II.
The first image is the complete unit showing the collet arbor, nut, tap clamp, and torque arm. I've already removed the retaining ring shown in the next image.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02114-800.jpg
This image shows those same parts removed. There is a set screw shown that has a small pip that extends beyond the threads. This is used as a stop to prevent the tap clamp from falling out of the arbor. It does not abut the tap clamp - or anything else. Be sure not to allow the threaded portion of the set screw to extend into the arbor as the clamp can compress the threads, damaging it.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02115-800.jpg
At the opposite end is the pressure adjuster which is restrained from coming off by another wire retainer. Seen here is the thrust bearing inside the adjuster, the clutch pack springs (9 coaxial pairs), and the body with the index dial and three alignment pins for the clutch pack. Note that there is an Allen head screw on the adjuster that is a friction clamp to prevent unwinding. Ensure this is loosened before disassembling. The balls in the carrier are restrained from falling out which is excellent for fumbling guys like me. This bearing requires cleaning and greasing per the manual.
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02116-800.jpg
This picture shows all the innards. The spring and nut are removed before removing the clutch pack and planetary drive. It is a collar nut with a slot for a flat screwdriver. Notice the small black key. This tiny thing fits in slots in the outer housing and the outer race of the planetary drive. Don't lose this, and don't forget to re-install it!
http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02118-800.jpg
Continued in part II.
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