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Tapmatic 50X disassembly

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  • Tapmatic 50X disassembly

    This is a dis-assembly sequence for my TAPMATIC 50X tapping head. It is a simple process but there are a couple things to pay attention to. The good news is there are no springs or balls that are going to go flying across the shop and land in your swarf bin. There is one hefty snap ring that will bugger up poorly made snap ring pliers.

    The first image is the complete unit showing the collet arbor, nut, tap clamp, and torque arm. I've already removed the retaining ring shown in the next image.
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02114-800.jpg

    This image shows those same parts removed. There is a set screw shown that has a small pip that extends beyond the threads. This is used as a stop to prevent the tap clamp from falling out of the arbor. It does not abut the tap clamp - or anything else. Be sure not to allow the threaded portion of the set screw to extend into the arbor as the clamp can compress the threads, damaging it.
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02115-800.jpg

    At the opposite end is the pressure adjuster which is restrained from coming off by another wire retainer. Seen here is the thrust bearing inside the adjuster, the clutch pack springs (9 coaxial pairs), and the body with the index dial and three alignment pins for the clutch pack. Note that there is an Allen head screw on the adjuster that is a friction clamp to prevent unwinding. Ensure this is loosened before disassembling. The balls in the carrier are restrained from falling out which is excellent for fumbling guys like me. This bearing requires cleaning and greasing per the manual.
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02116-800.jpg

    This picture shows all the innards. The spring and nut are removed before removing the clutch pack and planetary drive. It is a collar nut with a slot for a flat screwdriver. Notice the small black key. This tiny thing fits in slots in the outer housing and the outer race of the planetary drive. Don't lose this, and don't forget to re-install it!
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02118-800.jpg

    Continued in part II.
    Last edited by dp; 12-22-2013, 08:04 PM.

  • #2
    The next shot shows all the parts disassembled as far as maintenance requires. The three axial pins in the arbor are removable and that will allow separating the arbor and planetary drive but there's probably no need to do so. The clutch pack is salt flat dry. No lube of any kind. It looks very much like many small engine clutches. There is another thrust bearing here and the balls are restrained from seeking out your swarf bin. The planetary drive has no gears - it uses a ball bearing heavily preloaded to provide friction drive and I cannot force it to slip. This bearing requires cleaning and grease. Oil used here will surely find its way to the clutch pack and that will surely cause grabbing and other miseries. The bearing that is attached to the clutch pack is a shielded bearing and is serviceable if you are good at peeling off the shielding. I put a drop of oil in it and wiped up the excess before assembly. It is too close to the clutch pack for comfort for oiling.
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02119-800.jpg

    Finally we see a close shot of the planetary drive and a good view of the dog clutch that allows the arbor to free wheel at a certain limit of extension, and to engage the opposite dogs in the clutch pack causing direction reversal in the planetary drive.
    http://metalworkingathome.com/images/DSC02120-800.jpg

    The only care needed on reassembly is to ensure the key is in place, and to be sure the clutch housing indentations are aligned with the retaining pins before installing the coaxial springs. The keyway is visible at the left of the outer race in this image.
    Last edited by dp; 12-22-2013, 08:05 PM.

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    • #3
      Bearings as a planetary drive? Very cool! Would of never suspected that.
      Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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      • #4
        That wee beasty is surprisingly complicated. For $900 they should be. I just picked a new one from a little country auction for $20. It is the 50x not the BX. I wonder what the difference is? Joe


        EDIT: I just saw this thread was a few years old. Oh well, bring it to the top.

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