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is their such a sleeve?..(newbe)

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  • is their such a sleeve?..(newbe)

    Hi folks- I am trying to adapt a rotor (engine-drive welder) from a older Onan Engine to a newer Engine. I need the old rotor so in doing so I have a problem: Both engines have tapered fit cranks except the one (old engine) is quite bit larger tapered shaft than other. As well as slightly differant taper. Changing cranks isn't a option. is one avaiable on net..or can one be made (a sleeve) so it would fit into the rotor (taper fit at 1 5/8" on wider side) and then the inside of the sleeve would be the taper to fit the newer engines crank that also is tapered but smaller ( 1 1/8" at wider side). So the sleeve would be tapered inside as well as outside- inside key and outside. ( maybe weld fit) The outside would be 2.25/inches per ft taper- inside would be 1.50/ inces per ft taper. Any resources for such a thing? care to build one? I need this sleeve insert to use the rotor otherwise hole way to big. Thanks!..Gene

  • #2
    It's doubtful any adapters would be available for your specific need since the rotors were designed to fit the one engine, but yes I don't see why you would'nt be able to make or have some shop make you an adapter sleeve.
    I see it as no different than a morse taper adapter.
    The only problem I can see happening is that when an adapter is used the rotor will mount furthur out on the shaft. If it's contained in a housing you may not have room. Other options would be to either alter the taper on the rotor or on the crank shaft.



    • #3

      Joe Lee- thanks..Accually I was hoping to have the sleeve inside the existing tapered hole in rotor- just bringing the the tapered hole in rotor down to a smaller size to fit smaller crank dia. Gene P.S. some added length wouldn't really be a issue thou.


      • #4
        have you considered a flexible coupling ?


        • #5
          If the hole in the rotor is bigger than you need than the sleeve idea should work out fine as long as there is a big enough difference so the sleeve will have some wall thickness to it. I take it this is the rotor for the generator ???? the flex coupling won't work as the rotor has to be securley mounted to the crank as if it were a fly wheel.



          • #6
            Firstly, are you measuring taper per foot as total included taper, or the slope of one side ?

            If the tapers are the steeper version, then the adaptor sleeve can be about 1 3/4" long before the wall thickness reduces to 1/8". If the shallower, then of course you get over 3" of sleeve. I am judging 1/8" as a wall thickness that you can turn before the sleeve distorts during machining at reasonable speed/depth of cut.

            Either way, it looks like the sleeve you want is readily turned up, out of 1 3/4" bar. Next, what will anchor the sleeve ? Is there a keyway ? a 1/8" wall thinkness is still OK for a keyway 1/16" deep in sleeve and spindle/rotor. The two keyways would be opposite each other.

            The question is, do you have a lathe capable of the job ?

            Cutting the keyway is no simple matter, but you could bodge the job with a file, if necessary. You won't see it, and it won't turn as long as something's wedged in there.

            If you wanted to refine the turning, you could mount the semi-finished sleeve on the new motor, anchor the motor on the lathe bed and finish in-situ using the motor as its own spindle.

            Cutting tapers is not that difficult.
            Richard - SW London, UK, EU.


            • #7

              I guess I should of clarified. I'm inquiring if such a sleeve would exist..and where? or if could be made. I myself haven't the knowledge or machine to do it. I just know this is where I can get sound input on it. The total depth is only 1" (+/-) little. Any knowledge of a machineing place in Wisconsin that could do it? Thanks again. The rotor off old has to be with new crank taper as it has cooling fins on it and needs to be solid on the tapered shaft. I think both keyways are 1/8"..but I'd have to check. I considered putting a solid stock welded in..then see if could have new tapered hole to match crank bored into it?