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Wheel Lug stud Installation?

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  • Wheel Lug stud Installation?

    Is there a "proper" way to pull a lug stud in for automobiles wheels? I feel like I'm about to explode a stud by just cranking the hell out of it (with an impact wrench). I need to do three of them for my daughter's car tonight.

  • #2
    Haven't done it in years, but pulling them through using a lug nut (upside down) and a air-powered impact wrench is how we did it.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by PixMan
      Haven't done it in years, but pulling them through using a lug nut (upside down) and a air-powered impact wrench is how we did it.
      Ditto ,but I have one suggestion.
      Place a heavy washer under the nut before using the impact gun , stops marring the hub.
      Michael

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      • #4
        You can use a heavy duty C clamp and a deep impact socket to install them if your uncomfortable using an impact wrench.
        It's only ink and paper

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        • #5
          Also, coat the threads and friction points of the nut and heavy washer with anti sieze compound. JIM
          jim

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          • #6
            I agree with Jim above,,, i clean out the hole best i can to get rid of rust,then either antisieze or even #90 gear oil in the hole, then pull the stud through with a thick washer, if it,s a bit too snug,, tap the head on the back while cranking it through.

            Sad that most automotive stuff like this and a lot of other things are ALWAYS put together dry, time is money as they say.

            I believe good consientious mechanics i,ve seen usually will put some type of lube on parts they,re sticking back together.

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            • #7
              pour boiling water over the hub just before insertion, helps a bit, have warmed with a lamp but not recomended, you can refrigerate the studs too for a little more clearance
              mark

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              • #8
                Pulling the stud into the flange is the accepted method.

                I like to employ a Torrington thrust bearing I salvaged from a stripped out A/C tool. That....and a good impact wrench will get the job done in nothing flat.

                BTW, a lot of guys I used to work with had cheap impact wrenches, and, insted of torqueing the nut down, they just hammered away at them.
                An impact wrench, operating on low air pressure isn't going to do you any good pulling studs into a hub. A healthy 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker-bar will sometimes get the job done faster than a weak air wrench...
                No good deed goes unpunished.

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                • #9
                  Thanks once again for your support and suggestions. I had never seen any type of lubricant used on the studs, but a little shot of anti-seize and they pulled right in.

                  Mark

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                  • #10
                    Me, I wouldn't have used any anti-seize compound there. That one place where I actually want the thing to be permanently seized on there.

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                    • #11
                      The 'correct' way is to pull the hub and press the stud in. Second best is the C-clamp idea (they make a special tool similar to the C-clamp). Third option is a 1/2" spacer with an 'extra' nut to pull the stud in. The nuts do get damaged doing this so I only recomend a spare nut for this. Just buy 1 extra nut when getting the studs. Use a good grease like moly lube on the threads and where the nut makes contact to the spacer, you can also put some on the studs where they press into the hub to help them slide in.


                      Is this on the front or rear of the car? FWD car? If it is on the front of a front wheel drive car you may need to pull the hub anyhow because the studs won't clear the bearing housing/CV joint cup. < Most cars.
                      Andy

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                      • #12
                        I assure you all that these studs, even with a little shot of anti seize, are NOT going anywhere. They are still quite tight.

                        You are also right, the studs will not come out without pulling the hub AND disassembling the bearing housing. So I cheated. I ground out a place where the adjuster rubber sits in the cover so the studs would go in and out. Since this is on one of my cars, I'm not real worried about it. I just made a larger rubber grommet to cover the extra size hole.

                        All is well again.

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                        • #13
                          I have put a lot of them in with a good 1/2 impact wrench,and a little anti-seize on the threads. Never saw the need for any lube on the splines of the stud. With a good impact you can feel when the stud seats. I never used it, but I like the bearing idea.
                          James

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                          • #14
                            No Anti seize

                            Originally posted by PixMan
                            Me, I wouldn't have used any anti-seize compound there. That one place where I actually want the thing to be permanently seized on there.
                            You got that right - I also want no anti sieze where sieze is critical. A little WD 40 wouldn't hurt as WD will go away in a short time, anti sieze is there for a LONG time.

                            Heating the hub freezing the stud is a great help for installing them as someone mentioned in a previous post.
                            "Old Guys Rule"

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                            • #15
                              I would not say that anti seize is an issue on the splines or knurls of an assembly that is essentially pressed into the hub. It's not going anywhere as long as the wheel nuts are properly torqued. But a little oil or grease used as a lubricant is probably safer.

                              Why safer?
                              Because you do not want to get any anti seize on the nut or the threads of the stud.

                              There have been a large number of high profile incidents and fatalities the last few years because of wheel-offs on commercial trucks.
                              Improper mounting procedures were the main issue in most of these cases, and the use of anti seize was a very real cause, (direct and indirect) in many of the studies done on the subject by various agencies across North America.

                              No studies have been done that I'm aware of on passenger vehicles, but every well trained tire tech that I've talked to cringes at the mention of anti seize on wheel mounting hardware...can't say I blame them after reading some of the studies.
                              Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                              Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                              Location: British Columbia

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